Let's not delve into the details... These watches, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, were among the most anticipated, discussed, and attractive at the exhibition.
Somehow, in their category of watches made for 'ordinary people' (excluding very complicated or ultra-luxurious watches that only a few can afford), they stole the show. Why...? Firstly, they have finally arrived. Many watch enthusiasts have been waiting for Tudor to release a more compact and thinner GMT watch, and this Black Bay 58 GMT is the answer to the many requests voiced by the Tudor community (is it the right answer...? Maybe, but not entirely). Secondly, because these are once again very attractive watches, with a level of equipment and quality with which few can compete in this category. How good are they technically, visually, and on the wrist? Let's find out.
The Tudor GMT People Have Been Waiting For?
Let's go back a bit in time... The Tudor Black Bay, also known as the cornerstone of the brand's collection and retro-style diving watches, appeared on the market in 2012 - then with a burgundy bezel and ETA 2824 movement inside. This was followed by a blue version and a model with a black bezel, respectively, in 2014 and 2015. Several months later, Tudor first updated the collection with the Black Bay ref. 79230, equipped with a Kenissi-made movement. Last year, the Black Bay entered its third generation, receiving the Master Chronometer certificate from METAS and significantly changing the case design.
What about travel models? The Black Bay GMT first appeared in 2018 in a 41mm case with a so-called Pepsi bezel and a black dial. In 2022, steel and gold versions followed, and in 2023, a steel Pepsi version with a polar dial (quite attractive, if you ask me...) However, from the moment of its appearance, the Black Bay GMT sparked some discussions regarding its dimensions, and primarily its thickness. The 41mm size did not cause much concern, but the combination of high case lugs and an overall thickness of 14.6mm did not find favor with some watch enthusiasts. From this point on, fans began to request the release of the Black Bay 58 GMT, a more compact and thinner travel model that would continue the popular BB58 model introduced in 2018, with its 39mm diameter and 11.9mm thickness.
Tudor's first response wasn't quite what was expected... I would even say that the Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT wasn't intended to answer these requests but was rather the brand's option for an explorer watch (it was more like an Explorer II, as Tudor...) Nevertheless, it solved one of the two problems - the diameter, as the Black Bay Pro is 39mm... But the thickness remains identical to the 41mm Black Bay GMT, i.e., 14.6mm. And again, Tudor fans had to wait. And now 2024 has become a happy year for them as the brand finally introduced the watches so eagerly requested - the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Thinner, more compact, yet still a true GMT with diving capabilities. Is the perfect BB here? Is it really?
Six years of work (not quite, this is for context, as both the BB58 and BB GMT were presented at Baselworld 2018), and here we have the new star of the collection, a travel watch from Tudor made for enthusiasts. Made by enthusiasts...? Perhaps, as Tudor seems to have listened to the requests. At first glance, these Black Bay 58 GMT watches are undoubtedly Tudor BB and seem to be the result of a union between the BB58 and BB GMT. Perhaps they had a good night, and the watches, by most quantitative and objective aspects, are successful.
Smaller, Thinner... Better?
Let's run the stats. These Tudor BB58 GMT watches are mostly an evolution of the long-appreciated BB58 diver's watches, as they have the same 39mm diameter. Lug-to-lug? Very decent - 47.8mm. Water resistance? Just as good as the rest of the collection, at 200 meters. Overall design? Identical to the brand's latest offerings (such as the new Black Bay 41) and thus marks an evolution compared to the classic Black Bay 58. What has changed? Important details such as the bezel profile with a more pronounced and classic pattern and a more traditional, smaller, and thinner crown that sits flush with the case.
Otherwise, everything remains the same. Strong inspiration from early Tudor Submariner watches, a carefully finished stainless steel case with a matte top surface, polished lugs, and polished bevels on the sides, a box-shaped sapphire crystal on top, and a screw-down solid steel case back. In short, these are Tudor diver's watches with a GMT complication.
What really matters are the case proportions. The original Black Bay GMT with its 41mm and 14.6mm were definitely on the larger side. The Black Bay Pro with a 39mm diameter and 14.6mm thickness combined with high side lugs somehow didn't appeal to many enthusiasts. Nevertheless, I understand some remarks and can agree that a smaller case combined with some thickness can create a imbalance. So be it. Now, in the Black Bay 58 GMT model, the case diameter is 39mm, and the thickness has been reduced to 12.8mm - and believe me, the reduction by 1.8mm does not go unnoticed.
On the wrist, this is completely obvious. Thus, the BB58 GMT approaches the proportions of the Rolex GMT Master II, whose thickness is 11.9mm, but they have a 100-meter waterproof case and flat sapphire crystal. And I don't think there could be much complaint about the size of the Rolex GMT... Moreover, the BB58's box-shaped sapphire crystal is no less than 1mm thick, meaning these new Tudor watches feel on the wrist closer to 12mm than 13mm. Also, the 20mm of this Black Bay 58 GMT will be appreciated by many.
Smaller, thinner, shorter (the 41mm BB GMT measures about 50mm L2L) and inevitably lighter, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT delights the eye on the wrist, especially on a rubber strap. The watches sit well on the wrist, are rock solid, and you can feel the build quality and finish. But there's nothing new about this, as that’s how most Tudor models feel on the wrist.
A Gilded Bezel that Lacks Consensus
Now let's talk about what is much less objective... The appearance. As a GMT watch from the Rolex Group, this BB58 GMT model must have a two-tone bezel. And here, the choice fell on an anodized aluminum insert of black and burgundy colors with gilded accents for the 24-hour scale. There is undoubtedly a clear influence of the Rolex GMT Master 6542 here. Initially, these watches were navy blue and red, but over time their color changed, becoming closer to black-burgundy. Moreover, the numbers and markers on the bezel also changed color and acquired a patina, resulting in a beige hue.
The new "dark coke gilded" insert on the bidirectional bezel of the BB58 GMT, of course, wasn't unanimously accepted, and some would prefer a more modern style "clean coke" or "pepsi". To each their own... Personally, I like the result for its rather restrained look, warmth, and vintage appeal. The BB58 collection, after all, has always been a more retro-inspired option for the brand's diver's watches. So yes, the BB58 GMT looks stunning if you get into these colors.
The dial is done in the same key and continues the tradition started by the burgundy Black Bay of 2012 and the original black dial BB58 of 2018. The slightly grained domed black dial with gilded tracks, markers, and logos, as well as gold markers and hands with light cream Super-LumiNova luminescent coating. Again, there's a lot of charm and retro touches. Perhaps someone will have to wait for a more technical execution of these watches... How about a blueberry-style BB58 GMT with white SLN and rhodium-plated hands/markers...? That would also look very cool.
Otherwise, we have the classic snowflake-style hand with the evolution characteristic of the 2023 Black Bay Master Chronometer model - a lollipop-style second hand, a larger and longer minute hand, a GMT hand with a snowflake tip. If I had one complaint, it would be the lack of contrast for the GMT hand, which is done in the same gold color as the rest of the watch. This does not make it the most legible. However, it is worth noting the cream date disc, matching the rest of the dial, and the calmness of the dial concerning literature (only 2 lines of text at the "6 o'clock" position...)
New Mechanics
As for the mechanism, there have been quite a few evolutions in the Black Bay 58 GMT. First of all, its caliber MT5450-U is something new or, at least, unprecedented compared to the classic automatic created on the Kenissi base. Being smaller and thinner, like the non-GMT BB58, this new travel model required the brand to work on a thinner mechanism.
Compared to the MT5652 caliber of the 41mm Black Bay GMT model, its dimensions have been reduced - 30.3mm versus 31.8mm in diameter and 6.14mm versus 7.52mm in thickness. What hasn't changed is that these are true GMT watches, with an integrated dual-time function and a crown that adjusts the local hour hand in one-hour increments. As expected, the model retains the stop-seconds mechanism and instantaneous date function synchronized with local time.
Another very important evolution concerns certification. The BB58 GMT model is certified as a Master Chronometer, meaning that COSC and METAS have verified the mechanism and the watch for timekeeping accuracy, resistance to magnetism (immunity to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss), water resistance, and power reserve (minimum 65 hours). This is achieved thanks to an inertia balance wheel with variable inertia, a balance bridge, and a silicon balance spring. Thus, the automatic caliber MT5450-U undergoes arguably the most complex testing procedure existing today.
Finally, Tudor offers these new and more compact GMT watches with a classic three-link steel bracelet with rivets (again, some would prefer a more traditional Oyster style...) or a rubber strap with well-integrated end links. Both options close with a folding clasp equipped with a T-fit micro-adjustment system (with an 8mm adjustment window). Moreover, the clasps are equipped with ceramic ball bearings, providing smooth and secure closure, which is a very nice touch, demonstrating the brand's attention to detail and care for durability.
Final Thoughts and Competition
In most objective and quantitative aspects, there is little to be said against these Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT watches. They are indeed that good. The proportions are finally what most of us wanted to see from the beginning, the overall quality is excellent, the watches are equipped with all the functions you can expect and even more, the functionality and ease of use are undeniable, the watches are versatile and can do everything an active man or woman needs. Diving? Check. Traveling and keeping track of time with the GMT function? Check. Being reliable sports watches that can be worn year-round? Check. They will look good even with a casual business suit.
Now, as always, luxury mechanical watches are emotionally charged items that represent more than just a set of numbers and statistics. Personally, I like the color scheme and the use of old, almost 6542 tones. It's charming, warm, and has its personality in the brand's catalog. However, it seems it's not quite so for enthusiasts. But, as always, you can't argue against personal tastes.
In terms of competition, it's hard to find watches with this level of quality and certification, at least in an identical price range. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm immediately comes to mind. The model costs 3,500 euros in a steel case with a steel bracelet (roughly 1,000 euros less), but it is a serious alternative thanks to its silicon spring, COSC-certified GMT mechanism with a solid power reserve, and generally attractive pilot's look. Another option could be the Longines HydroConquest GMT 41mm, also a watch with diving credentials and a GMT function, priced at 3,300 euros.
There are dozens of more affordable sports GMT watches, such as the Certina DS Action GMT, Seiko Prospex GMT, or Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - great watches, but none can compete with Tudor in terms of quality, certification, and functionality. On the other hand, watches from Omega, TAG Heuer, Grand Seiko, or Rolex will either be much more expensive or not compare with them in terms of equipment and mechanics.
Availability and Price
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Master Chronometer watches, part of the permanent collection, are now available in boutiques and retail stores for 4,420 euros on a rubber strap and 4,630 euros on a steel bracelet. There was a time when such watches cost less than 4,000 euros, but those days are gone, and even at this price, the BB58 GMT is undoubtedly one of the most attractive sports travel watches on the market. Stunning watches, at least if you like the coke gilded bezel.
For more information, visit www.tudorwatch.com.