Despite their original construction, which divides time (for most of them) into central minutes, hours on a sub-dial at 12 o'clock, and seconds on a sub-counter at 6 o'clock, regulator watches are among the most classic you can imagine.
The origin of these regulator watches is not pretentious; they have nothing to do with design choices but rather meet purely practical needs. Before the invention of accurate digital watches, watchmakers set and checked their timepieces by master clocks. Positioned so that all watchmakers could easily refer to them from their desks, these high-precision clocks were most often equipped with a split display, with the minute hand taking center stage. Such clocks became the inspiration for several watch brands (Chronoswiss made them its signature style as early as 1983). While the idea of dividing time across different parts of the dial remains the main concept of regulator watches, there is more than one way to achieve it… Complications, opposite layouts, original designs - here are 6 of the most original and complex regulator watch variations.
Louis Erard Regulateur x Cedric Johner
The regulator display has become a true hallmark of Louis Erard: some of the most original watches with such a display... Think of collaborations with Silberstein or Chaikin, modernist guilloché dials, or a minimalist artistic approach, or even a tourbillon. The latest Régulateur model from Louis Erard is originality in design and classic in display. Created in collaboration with independent watchmaker Cedric Johner, the regulator plays with shapes to deceive the eye. Despite a classic round 39mm case, it initially appears hexagonal, thanks to the domed hexagonal sapphire crystal covering the dial. The dial also features a hexagonal minute track, two concave sub-dials for hours and seconds, and a strong sunray pattern that even emphasizes all these shapes. Inside is the Sellita SW266-1, keeping the price at an acceptable level. Limited edition of 178 pieces in each color (lilac or blue).
Quick Facts - 39 mm x 12.82 mm - round polished case with hexagonal dial opening - lilac or blue PVD dial with sunray pattern - classic regulator dial scheme - automatic Sellita SW266-1, 4 Hz, 38-hour power reserve - grained calfskin strap - limited to 178 pieces per color - 4,000 Swiss Francs
Moritz Grossmann Benu Tourbillon
Already a renowned model, the Benu Tourbillon is presented this year with a complex edition featuring so-called tremblage - a dial hand-engraved with various burrs. But in a modern context, the originality and complexity of these regulator watches are important, featuring a horizontal layout - central minutes focusing between 25 and 35 minutes, hours and seconds on a single axis just above the dial center - simply because space is needed for the magnificent floating tourbillon regulator (16 mm diameter). Additionally, the tourbillon rotates every 3 minutes rather than 60 seconds and is equipped with a delightful stop-seconds function - an elastic brush made of human hair that smoothly slows the balance around the rim. One of the most mesmerizing regulators on the market.
Quick Facts - 44.5 mm x 13.9 mm - 18k white or rose gold case - German silver dial with "black-or" galvanic coating and tremblage texture - regulator with central minute hand at 3, small seconds hand at 9 and 3-minute tourbillon at 6 - caliber 103.0, in-house manual winding, 72-hour power reserve, 2.5 Hz - alligator leather strap with butterfly clasp - limited to 8 pieces per color - from 198,000 Euros
Jacob & Co. Astronomia Regulateur
First introduced in 2014, the Astronomia model from Jacob & Co caused quite a stir: its concept was based on planetary indicators in perpetual motion, driven by a multi-axis tourbillon. This year, Jacob releases a spectacular regulator version. In typical Astronomia fashion, the rotating mechanism has three arms: one for the minute flying tourbillon and two for time indication. But this regulator is unlike any other... First, the central indication is reserved for seconds, while hours and minutes are placed on additional sub-dials (rotating but always positioned vertically). Second, the entire mechanism base on a semi-transparent ring rotates counterclockwise at a crazy speed - once a minute. Such energy consumption required the development of a constant force mechanism: an intermediate spring recharges six times per second. Undoubtedly, these Jacob & Co. Astronomia Regulateur watches are among the most impressive regulators.
Quick Facts - 43 mm x 18 mm - 18k rose gold and sapphire glass case - main dial in polished titanium, dome-shaped sub-dials in colored polycarbonate - regulator with central seconds hand, hours and minutes on separate sub-dials - minute flying tourbillon and entire mechanism rotate once per minute - caliber JCAM56, made by Concepto, 3 Hz, 48-hour power reserve - alligator leather strap and rose gold folding clasp - limited to 250 pieces - 280,000 USD
Raul Pages Regulateur a detente
Another high-tech regulator variant in a completely different attire than the Jacob above... Seemingly simple at first glance, if not minimalist, the magic of the Raúl Pagès Régulateur à Détente RP1 happens on the back cover. Pagès managed to create a wristwatch-compatible detent escapement. A chronometry grail rarely used in wristwatches, mainly due to its inherent drawbacks (shock resistance...), the detent escapement was primarily used in marine chronometers due to its accuracy. Raúl Pagès made it applicable in wristwatches... and what wristwatches. Beautifully finished, elegant, with a modern twist, they feature a classic regulator display with central minutes, hours at 12 o'clock, and small seconds at 6 o'clock.
Quick Facts - 38.5 x 10.2 mm steel case - sandblasted and nickel-plated dial with recessed small seconds dial with blue lacquer - classic regulator - in-house manual winding movement, detent escapement with anti-recoil system, 2.5 Hz, 47-hour power reserve - black leather strap and beige leather strap - 85,000 Swiss Francs excluding taxes
Chronoswiss Strike Two
One of the most active ambassadors of regulator watches, which have become the brand's trademark since its inception in the 1980s, Chronoswiss has dozens of such watches in its collection, from classic to ultra-modern. In its latest creation, the Strike Two series, Chronoswiss breaks its own norm by offering a horizontal regulator. Here, minutes remain at the center, hours are on an openwork sub-dial at 3 o'clock, and seconds are on a guilloché counter at 9 o'clock. Signature styling elements (knurled case, onion crown, screwed lugs) combine with bold aesthetic solutions, including the H2O model with a water-textured blue dial - another model, matte gray with gold accents, is more classic. Inside is a new automatic caliber for the brand, developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. Each series is limited to 100 pieces.
Quick Facts - 40 mm x 12.7 mm steel case, knurled bezel and onion crown - horizontal regulator with openwork minute indicator - base level with vertical brush (Golden Gear) or stamped and blue CVD coating (H2O) - caliber C. 6000 made in La Joux-Perret, automatic, 4 Hz, 55-hour power reserve - calfskin strap - limited to 100 pieces - CHF 9,800
Garrick Regulator mk2
Made in the UK, almost fully customizable, equipped with an in-house movement, with a regulator display that refuses to be symmetrical... Garrick Regulator MK2 combines quirks to become one of the most distinctive regulator watches. First introduced in 2016, the Garrick Regulator was fully updated last year, receiving an updated display, more balanced layout, and a new movement - the in-house mechanical caliber UT-G02 with manual winding, replacing the old Unitas base. What sets Garrick and this regulator apart is the possibility of full customization of the watch. The base can be either matte or engraved, available in a multitude of classic or original colors, and you can even choose the color of the mechanism (gold, silver, rhodium, or black matte finish). These are not the simplest watches (only made to order, with a long lead time), but the result is a very personalized approach to regulator watches.
Quick Facts - 42 mm x 11 mm 904L steel case - matte or toned dial in various colors - open free-sprung balance at 6 o'clock - adjustable display with central minutes, hours at 3 o'clock, and seconds at 10 o'clock - in-house developed caliber UT-G02 with manual winding, 45-hour power reserve, gold, silver, rhodium, or black matte finish - alligator or exotic leather strap - limited edition - from GBP 9,995 (excluding taxes)