It can be confidently said that Grand Seiko is a watch brand for geeks, but over the years, as the brand has grown and entered the international market, more and more people are discovering the unique character of what this special Japanese brand has to offer (pun, of course, intended).
From the colorful and textured dial finishes to Zaratsu finishing and unique mechanisms like the famous Spring Drive calibers, their creativity is vast. That's why it's so hard to determine exactly what I'm going to do... So, at the risk of offending numerous fans, I've gathered 12 of what we consider to be the best Grand Seiko watches of the modern era.
#1: Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch”
Let's start with one of the most famous and recognized Grand Seiko models: SLGH005 “White Birch”. The dial of this model, which won the GPHG award for men's watches in 2021 and the Red Dot Design Awards “Best of the Best” in 2022, is reminiscent of the white birch forests surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, where all mechanical Grand Seiko 9S watches are produced and assembled.
Why it matters: The White Birch is not only one of the most famous Grand Seiko watches but also one of the most famous Japanese watches. They also showcase one of Grand Seiko's hallmarks: incredibly detailed dial texture. The watch is also significant for being the first steel model to use the 9SA5 caliber - the pinnacle of the 9S caliber design, boasting a revolutionary dual impulse escapement and an 80-hour power reserve.
- Price: A$13,600
#2: Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”
A favorite among Grand Seiko collectors worldwide, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” model is named after its exquisitely crafted dial reminiscent of freshly fallen snow. Additionally, this watch is incredibly accurate thanks to the smooth Spring Drive mechanism, which combines the “soul” of mechanical watches with quartz precision.
Why it matters: The quintessential Spring Drive, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” is rightly an iconic favorite. The Snowflake model made Grand Seiko known on the international market; the winning combination of a nature-inspired beautiful dial and the Spring Drive mechanism helped a broad audience of watch buyers understand what makes Grand Seiko so unique. This model embodies everything that makes Grand Seiko unlike others and special for watch geeks. Its high-strength titanium case is also typical of Grand Seiko, with its combination of matte and Zaratsu-polished surfaces.
- Price: A$9,250
#3: Grand Seiko SLGT003 “Kodo” Constant Force Tourbillon
Named after the Japanese word for “heartbeat”, the SLGT003 “Kodo” Constant-Force Tourbillon is the most visually striking (and technically impressive) watch in the Grand Seiko repertoire, taking almost a decade to develop. It is the first watch in history where the tourbillon and constant force mechanism are combined into one unit on a single axis. The openwork construction and musical quality of the constant force carriage rotation make this watch worthy of attention.
Why it matters: Simply put, this is the first Grand Seiko watch with a mechanical complication, making it incredibly significant. The in-house caliber 9ST1, an evolution of the impressive T0 concept caliber, set new accuracy standards for the already uncompromising brand, while also being a world first in horology. Additionally, it is the first watch released in the new Atelier Ginza studio, the smallest of Grand Seiko's production sites, which will be almost entirely focused on mechanical complications, starting a continuous legacy of high-complication masterpieces.
- Price: A$500,000
#4: Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph
It was only in 2007 that Grand Seiko first introduced a chronograph to its collection, and it took another 16 years before they presented their first mechanical chronograph - but the wait was worth it. The SLGC001 Tentagraph model's name is related to its 9SC5 movement, which beats TEN times per second, has a three-day power reserve, and is an automatic chronograph. But the most impressive aspect of this power reserve is that it includes a continuously running chronograph… Perfect if you love leaving the chronograph running all day.
Why it matters: Grand Seiko is known for its somewhat restrained, conservative aesthetic, but the Tentagraph model shows they are more than capable of creating conventionally beautiful sports watches. They perfectly embody Grand Seiko's modern Evolution 9 design language, and their angular form factor combines ergonomics and style.
- Price: A$20,500
#5: Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Shunbun”
A modern reinterpretation of the famous 1967 62GS model, the SBGA413 “Shunbun” (sometimes also called “Cherry Blossom”) is inspired by the Japanese seasonal phenomenon known as hana-ikada - the moment shortly after the spring equinox (shunbun in Japanese, hence the name), when cherry blossom petals blown by the wind cover the river's surface. The subtly textured pale pink dial is unlike any other in high-end watchmaking.
Why it matters: Initially, the Shunbun watch was a US-exclusive, but it became so beloved by fans that Grand Seiko included it in its range worldwide, which should somewhat explain how popular and significant these watches are. Like the Snowflake model, it embodies many of the things that make Grand Seiko special: high-strength titanium case with Zaratsu polishing, delightful dial texture in a unique nature-inspired color, and the Spring Drive mechanism. This model also played a significant role in making men appreciate the color pink in luxury watches, as well as helping to launch a wider trend for pastel and light dial colors that we are now seeing in the watch industry.
- Price: A$9,850
#6: Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari”
Inspired by the waters of Lake Suwa, located southeast of the Shinshu watch studio where all Spring Drive watches are produced, the SBGY007 is a classically beautiful, understated piece. The manually wound Spring Drive watch, equipped with only an hour mechanism, features an incredibly light blue dial inspired by the phenomenon when Lake Suwa freezes and a long ridge appears in the ice from one shore of the lake to the other, which according to tradition, is the Omiwatari - a bridge on which Shinto gods walk on ice.
Why it matters: As noted by our editor Zack, many Grand Seiko fans have noted that while they find the SBGA211 Snowflake fantastic, they would prefer it to be presented only in the form of a watch without a power reserve indicator. While this is not exactly the “Snowflake” dial, the SBGY007 satisfies this request. Moreover, it is perhaps the most interesting dress watch from Grand Seiko: the light blue dial is a masterful subtle stroke.
- Price: A$12,400
#6: Grand Seiko SBGH255
Uncompromisingly serious diving watches, the SBGH255 are the largest Grand Seiko watches, weighing an impressive 46.9 mm in diameter. Designed to withstand the pressure created when diving to depths of up to 600 meters (without a helium valve) and equipped with a pure iron dial to protect the mechanism from harmful magnetic influences, these big watches aren't here to joke around.
Why it matters: The parent company Seiko is known for its professional-level diving watches, and although Grand Seiko has long produced its own diving watches, these are the very first professional-grade diving watches bearing the GS brand. It's a slightly ridiculous but manly specimen, demonstrating that exceptional finishing, high-class mechanisms, and unusual dials aren't necessarily just for the surface. It's the ultimate manifestation of Seiko's diver's watches.
- Price: A$14,950
#8: Grand Seiko SBGP017
The SBGP017 model, a prime example of Grand Seiko's quartz creations, is equipped with the 9F caliber, proudly displayed behind a sapphire glass case back. This is no ordinary quartz movement or watch: fully assembled by hand by two Calibre 9F masters, the SBGV238 model provides accuracy of no less than ±5 seconds per year; this accuracy is made possible by the use of self-produced quartz crystals that are “seasoned” for three months, and only the best are selected for use in the caliber. The star on the delightful light blue cloudy-textured dial at the “6 o'clock” position signifies the high-precision quartz movement.
Why it matters: Many elite watch manufacturers shy away from showcasing their quartz movements, but in Grand Seiko's 9F caliber, quartz is treated with the respect it deserves, reflecting Seiko's legacy of introducing the world to quartz watches. Beautifully crafted and impressively accurate, the Calibre 9F dispels the notion that quartz watches are something to be ashamed of. Quite the opposite. Simply put, the SBGP017 model is the coolest Caliber 9F: the star on the dial and the blued GS logo, along with the characteristically beautiful dial, distinguish it as something special.
- Price: A$5,995
#9: Grand Seiko SGBZ009
The limited-edition SGBZ009 is a “holy grail” created by Seiko's Micro Artist Studio - an exclusive department that deals only with the most expensive Grand Seiko and Credor watches - featuring a hand-engraved platinum case and a dial adorned with the Grand Seiko “White Birch” pattern, representing the highest degree of the manufacturer's finishing. The Grand Seiko logo, dial text, and minute hand are also hand-engraved, and the indices and hands are made of 14-carat white gold with Zaratsu polishing. The manually wound Spring Drive Micro Artist Studio caliber 9R02 that powers the SGBZ009 is the most refined of Grand Seiko's movements.
Why it matters: It is significant because it demonstrates the full power of the Micro Artist Studio: not only how they can finish a movement to a level that would impress Philippe Dufour but also how they can finish a case in a way that no other watchmaker does. Platinum is a complex metal to work with, so the fact that Grand Seiko can present it with such flawless hand engraving is craftsmanship. But do not overlook the movement: the 9R02 caliber is a configuration of the 7R14 caliber used in the famous Credor Eichi II watches, but with a torque system that increases power reserve by 24 hours. It also has more rounded bevels, which, to my taste, are even more eye-catching and even more impressive. This is Seiko at the peak of its power.
- Price: A$117,950
#10: Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower”
The first-ever Australian limited edition Grand Seiko, the SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower”, is inspired by the eponymous flower that blooms only after bushfires, paying poignant tribute to the 2019-20 bushfire season that devastated Australia. (Grand Seiko even raffled one model in support of the National Parks and Wildlife Foundation).
Why it matters: The Pink Flannel Flower model is noteworthy not only because it reflects how carefully Grand Seiko approaches its regional exclusives but also because it is an excellent example of Elegance GMT watches and how GS isn't afraid to experiment with unusual colors. Yes, and it doesn't hurt that this is the first Australian limited edition Grand Seiko. Australia, as a small and remote market for most luxury watch brands, is usually overlooked when it comes to special editions. The fact that Australia received such attention - and especially a thoughtful limited edition dedicated to an Australian flower - shows that Grand Seiko truly cares about its fans.
- Price: A$10,600
#11: Grand Seiko SBGD202
Another rare creation from Seiko's Micro Artist Studio, the SBGD202's diamond dust-coated dial is both subtle and demanding of attention, as is its rose gold case with Zaratsu polishing. But what truly stands out is the manually wound 9R01 movement, which boasts an eight-day power reserve while maintaining astonishing timekeeping accuracy - 10 seconds per month.
Why it matters: Grand Seiko doesn't release many gold watches, but when they do, they are simply knockouts, and this watch is a case in point. The impressive 9R01 movement is not only Grand Seiko's first manually wound Spring Drive movement but also the largest power reserve among all GS. Don't overlook the SBGD202's diamond dust-coated dial: made through an exclusive process involving both electroplating and painting, it is intriguingly three-dimensional (photos don't do it justice); even more three-dimensional than the gold fleck dials created by some of the world's most expensive watchmakers.
- Price: A$66,000
#12: Grand Seiko SLGW003
If we're talking about manually wound Grand Seiko, then the new SLGW003 (and its rose gold sibling SLGW002), unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024, must be part of the discussion. With a thickness of only 9.95 mm, it features a unique White Birch dial with a horizontal rather than vertical texture and is made from Brilliant Hard Titanium - a patented Grand Seiko alloy that is brighter and more corrosion-resistant than regular titanium.
Why it matters: The 9SA4 movement in the SLGW003 is Grand Seiko's first high-frequency manually wound movement in half a century, and it's a true gem. With a dual impulse escapement and twin barrels, it boasts an 80-hour power reserve and high technical specifications. But the best part of the 9SA4 is that its click is shaped like a wagtail - a bird often seen around the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi - and the click feels like pecking when the watch is wound. Additionally, these are simply gorgeous dress watches, proving that Grand Seiko's expertise with titanium isn't limited to sports watches.
- Price: A$15,950
#13: Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition
Finally, we have the limited edition SBGA405, first introduced in 2019 to mark the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive as well as the 65th anniversary of the iconic Godzilla film franchise. Fun fact: in the first Godzilla film, the kaiju storms through Tokyo's Ginza, destroying the clock tower of the Wako department store - a luxury department store that serves as Seiko's headquarters and birthplace. The watch features a red dial inspired by Godzilla's heat ray, a black and red sharkskin strap echoing the tone and rough texture of the monster's skin, and a case back graphic depicting Godzilla destroying the Wako store. It's a fun and quirky piece that revels in its Japaneseness.
Why it matters: Grand Seiko (mistakenly) has a reputation as a somewhat conservative company, but the Godzilla model proves they can have a little fun too - as well as being aware of current trends in brand collaborations. Moreover, the collaboration is done very subtly and tastefully - on the wrist, it's not immediately apparent that this is a collaboration, its secret is revealed only when looking at the case back. Additionally, it's the best example of Grand Seiko Sport's angular case design (or “Lion”): GS isn't just about traditional watch shapes. Finally, red is rarely used in watchmaking, and this radiant red dial is simply mind-blowing.
- Price: A$16,000