Gradient, graduated, degraded, fumé, or smoky dials (depending on the brand's terminology) are not new. In fact, it's said that the idea of a dial with a bright color at the center that darkens towards the edges was introduced by Zenith in 1969 with the El Primero A385 model. The brand recently stated that this was "the first smoky dial ever created in the watch industry," which makes sense given the design trends of that era. However, credit is due to H. Moser & Cie for the return of this concept, as their so-called fumé dials have inspired dozens of other watches. This design trend has been around for several years, and judging by some of the new models released in 2021, gradient dials are definitely here to stay.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Center Seconds MEGA Cool
As mentioned above, we cannot talk about gradient dials without mentioning Moser. This type of dial undoubtedly defines the brand best, and the brand itself has set the tone for many other manufacturers. The latest model is a bold, fresh, and original take on sport-chic style watches, the Pioneer Centre Seconds, now featuring a Blue Lagoon fumé dial with a sunburst pattern. The attractive greenish-blue hue makes this model the perfect summer watch, especially with the new luminous hands equipped with Globolight inserts. And the name... it couldn't be more Moser-esque, as the watch is called Mega Cool (pronounced with a Swiss-German accent for authenticity). Inside, the watch is as serious as it is fresh on the outside, with a movement boasting a 3-day power reserve and attractive finishing. The steel case makes the watch both robust and relatively affordable (for Moser).
Brief facts: 42.8mm diameter - stainless steel case - water resistance up to 120 meters - Blue Lagoon fumé gradient dial with sunburst pattern - in-house automatic HMC 200 caliber, 3-day power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds - green Kevlar strap with steel clasp - 13,900 Swiss Francs
Longines Legend Diver with Gradient Brown Dial
The Longines Legend Diver, or LLD, needs no introduction. It is one of the most enduring models in the brand's Heritage collection and one of the most beautiful vintage dive watches on the market. A modern icon based on emblematic watches from the late 1950s. Initially presented with a glossy black dial to maintain historical relevance, this year the brand decided to enhance the retro feel with a patinated tropical-style dial. Not only does the Legend Diver now have an attractive golden-brown color, but the brand also created a gradient dial that turns black at the edges to match the lacquered bezel. Warm, rich, original, and overall cool, it truly suits the LLD. Inside, there remains a proprietary movement with a silicon balance spring and a solid power reserve. You get a lot for your money.
Brief facts: 42mm diameter - stainless steel case - 300m water resistance - gradient brown lacquered dial - automatic L888.5 caliber, 64-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds, and date - vintage brown leather strap with steel buckle - 2,240 Euros
TAG Heuer Monaco with Green Dial, Caliber Heuer 02
The Monaco watch, a child of the late 1960s - early 1970s, is one of the best watches for expressing a cool, funky vibe. Not only does the square case and round minute scale make the watch special to wear, but the contrast of shapes pairs beautifully with trendy colors. To celebrate TAG Heuer becoming the official timekeeper of the Monaco Historique Grand Prix, the company released a limited edition Monaco watch featuring two of the most sought-after trends on the market - a green dial with a gradient effect. Specifically, the dial has a pleasing emerald green shade with a matte sunburst pattern and a dégradé effect where the dial edges gradually shift to a dark green (almost black) color. Elsewhere on the dial, the brand decided to play it soft: all markers and tracks are done in white. Otherwise, this watch is a modern Monaco, with pushers/crown at the "3 o'clock" position and the Heuer 02 in-house movement beating at its heart.
Brief facts: 39mm x 39mm - stainless steel case - 100m water resistance - green sunburst gradient dial - in-house automatic Heuer 02 caliber, integrated chronograph, 80-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, and date - black alligator leather strap, steel folding clasp - 6,300 Euros
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze
You thought Tudor was conservative... Well, the brand's latest releases will prove you wrong. While the design is typical for the brand's vintage dive watches, in materials and colors, Tudor plays boldly. Following the very successful release of compact dive watches in 925 silver, the brand introduced an all-bronze watch, including the bracelet - and only 2 brands have dared to do this. How they will age and how your skin will react...? Time will tell. But otherwise, these watches have a strangely appealing look, which is due to this warm and rich combination of bronze and dial color. And don't believe it's the same as the 43mm bronze model. This new edition features a brown-bronze gradient dial and bezel, whose color clearly pairs well with the warm metal of the case and bracelet. The dégradé effect is not too noticeable at first glance, but it is well-calibrated. Otherwise, except for the new micro-adjustment clasp, these are exactly the same as all the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models.
Brief facts: 39mm diameter - solid bronze case, PVD steel case back - 200m water resistance - domed matte brown-bronze gradient dial - in-house automatic COSC-certified caliber MT5400, 70-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds - solid bronze bracelet with folding clasp and micro-adjustment - 4,250 Euros
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385
Finally, the Chronomaster Revival A385... We started this article with a brand that made the gradient dial cool again a few years ago, and we finish with a watch that is a reissue of perhaps the very first model with a gradient/degradé dial. In 1969, Zenith released its legendary El Primero caliber, one of the first automatic chronographs to hit the market. This was done with a trilogy of models: the A384, A385, and A386. While two of them have already been reissued recently, the brand decided to focus on the most fun of them and revamped the A385 model in a very faithful style, including its bold dial with strong color dégradé, starting from almost white in the center, through honey-brown and ending almost black at the periphery. As for the rest, it still features a compact tonneau-shaped case and the historic caliber 400, which is the closest to the El Primero 1969 mechanism.
Brief facts: 37mm diameter - stainless steel case - 50m water resistance - smoky brown gradient dial with white sub-dials - in-house automatic El Primero 400 caliber, integrated chronograph, 50-hour power reserve - hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, and date - ladder-style steel bracelet with stainless steel folding clasp - 8,300 Euros
