Having worked with the WatchTested team for over five years, it might surprise some that I've only now decided to add a Speedmaster to my collection.
Given WatchTested's close association with the legendary Speedy, the absence of such a watch seemed almost sacrilegious. However, it was much simpler: I always knew I would get a Speedmaster one day, but I couldn't decide on the model.
This is both the blessing and the curse of the Omega Speedmaster. It's not just one model — there are dozens of references, dial variations, limited editions, and rare variants. Vintage, neo-vintage, modern. With straight or curved lugs. Manual or automatic winding. I didn't want to rush into the obvious choice, especially if it's a watch seen on every other wrist at collector meetings.
Setting Initial Rules
In my search, I set a few rules for myself. I wanted a watch in new or excellent condition, and it had to be manually wound. This immediately ruled out most of the catalog, which surprisingly turned out to be helpful. Constraints help when faced with such a large selection.
Models That Almost Became Mine
Along the way, there were several options that almost became mine. For instance, I've always had a special fondness for the Speedmaster ’57 Trilogy with the Broad Arrow hands. They encapsulate much of what I love about the Speedmaster history, and visually, they suit me well. Yet something held me back. Ultimately, they never transitioned from admiration to inevitable acquisition. Perhaps it was the 1861 movement instead of the newer 3861...
Recently, the First Omega in Space came even closer to becoming mine. I really liked the blue-grey dial, and there were moments when I was sure it would be my choice. But when a friend bought the same watch, my enthusiasm quickly waned. It may seem petty, but I didn't want to have the same watch as someone in my immediate circle. I think most collectors will understand this feeling, even if they don't speak of it aloud.
Another object of attention was the Speedmaster Professional with a white dial. A great watch loved by many. For me, the red "Speedmaster" inscription became a stumbling block. It's surprising how one line of text can completely change the perception of a watch on the wrist. For some, it's the entire essence. For me, it's not.
The Speedmaster That Finally Became Mine — Calibre 321
The turning point came recently at a Speedy Tuesday event in Hong Kong, where Omega presented new "Reverse Panda" models. These are excellent watches, but they weren't what I was looking for. During the cocktail before dinner, I struck up a conversation with several collectors, one of whom was wearing a Speedmaster Calibre 321.
Of course, these watches were not new to me. A friend owns them and has written many times about his love for them. I've tried them on more than once, and every time they fit perfectly on the wrist. The problem was always the price — these were watches I admired from afar, considering them unattainable. But when I saw them again in Hong Kong and tried them on, something clicked. It wasn't just a Speedmaster I liked. It was the Speedmaster I needed — Calibre 321.
How It Happened
After about a 22-hour flight home to the UK, I began the search almost immediately. Buying new was out of budget, but with patience, I found a pre-owned piece in excellent condition at Swiss Horology in London. The set was complete, the price reasonable. Huge thanks to Dia at Swiss Horology for the help and promptness — everything was settled in 48 hours!
The money for the Speedy wasn't idle — to make the purchase possible, I traded in my Rolex Explorer II. The irony is that I bought those watches on the way home from a Speedy Tuesday event in 2022. It seems the circle is complete.
Why These Speedy Are Right for Me
I won't dwell on technical specifications — most readers already know them well. For me, it's more important why this Speedmaster fits so well on my wrist and into everyday life. The Calibre 321 is not a purist's Moonwatch. It's not a remake of any other model and not a Moonwatch as such. It's a combination of features and design decisions that collectively feel perfect for me.
The sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel are a crucial part of this feeling. They fit my lifestyle much better than hesalite and an aluminum bezel. They're a bit more durable, more scratch-resistant, and maintain a cleaner appearance longer. Visually, I've always liked cases with straight lugs, and the dial seems cleaner without the "Professional" inscription. And, of course, the mechanism. The Calibre 321 is not only historically important but also aesthetically beautiful. Visible through the transparent case back, it adds a special pleasure each time you take off the watch.
The bracelet and clasp deserve a separate mention. It's one of the best bracelets Omega produces today. Yes, I'm a bit biased now, but I stand by this opinion. Comfortable, well-finished, and thoughtfully designed — it completes the watch's look, creating a sense of coherence rather than compromise. It's not the perfect Speedmaster for everyone, but for me, it's perfect.
Life with the Speedmaster Calibre 321
Wearing the Calibre 321 and still in the "honeymoon" phase. It's inevitable. But what surprised me most is how naturally it fit into my collection. This is rarely talked about when buying new watches — not just how much you like them individually, but how well they fit into your overall wardrobe. Do they take their place? Does it make sense to wear them regularly?
In my case, the answer was clear and immediate — "yes." Not a single moment of doubt. Not a single thought that the choice was a mistake. I'm sure I bought the right watch, and that feeling is worth a lot. So far, it seems these watches were always meant for me. And that is perhaps the main indicator of the right choice.
The Long Road to Choice
The last truly significant purchase by my standards was the Hermès H08. These watches lived in my mind for a long time before reaching my wrist. I didn't rush, waited to see them in person, try them on, and give time to realize the desire to own them. Only when the initial enthusiasm didn't fade did I decide to buy them.
Ultimately, the H08 became a reliable part of my collection, which I regularly wear and appreciate. This slow, deliberate approach proved to be correct and shaped my attitude toward buying watches in general.
Looking back, I realize that deep down I always knew which Speedmaster I wanted. The long search was not so much about finding the right watch as about convincing myself that another option would be good enough. But if I had settled on one of those "almosts," I wouldn't have gotten such pleasure from wearing them. True satisfaction comes from owning exactly what you want, not what you settled for. Here's the main advice for readers: don't rush, but when the moment comes — buy the watch you truly want. If it's the Speedmaster Calibre 321 — I can wholeheartedly recommend it.