Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 with Naoya Hida

A double signature on a watch is long recognized in the watch community as a sign of high collectibility.

Historically, double signatures were most commonly found on models released by major and renowned retailers who placed their logo on the dial alongside the manufacturer’s name. The most famous examples are Rolex and Patek Philippe watches engraved with Tiffany & Co. Such joint branding automatically increases the value of models, with some achieving impressive results at auctions. With the onset of the 21st century, co-branding maintained its appeal but transformed into collaboration formats. Today, joint projects are not uncommon, yet the new collaboration between Switzerland and Japan in the form of Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co. is a rare and interesting example.

Double Signed Program and the New G.F.J. Calibre 135 Model

Zenith not only introduced a new model but also launched the Double Signed program - a platform for collaborative projects with selected partners. The starting point was the G.F.J. Calibre 135 model, which, as a result of cooperation with Naoya Hida & Co., received a double signature and a limited edition. The new model was partially developed and produced with the participation of Naoya Hida.

This version is based on the G.F.J., first introduced in 2025. The platinum case retains its previous design and technical specifications: a diameter of 39.15 mm, thickness of 10.5 mm, lug-to-lug distance of 45.75 mm, water resistance up to 50 meters, sapphire crystal front and back. The time display remains classic - central hour and minute hands and an additional small seconds subdial.

Zenith Calibre 135 Movement: History and Modernity

Inside is the Zenith Calibre 135 movement - a modern interpretation of the original Calibre 135-0. Maintaining the basic architecture, Breguet balance, and frequency of 2.5 Hz, the new version received a 72-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds mechanism. The movement is decorated with wide Geneva stripes and hand-beveled edges, and its precision is adjusted within a range of -2/+2 seconds per day. The original Calibre 135-0 belongs to the "Golden Age" of watchmaking, when Zenith regularly participated in chronometric competitions and won 2333 awards, of which 235 were received specifically with this calibre, produced from 1949 to 1962.

Inspiration and Contribution of Naoya Hida

The "Golden Age" period is the main source of inspiration for Naoya Hida. He first encountered Zenith Calibre 135-0 in the 1990s and has since studied and admired this movement and Zenith's achievements. During a meeting with Zenith's product director Romain Marietta, they discussed mutual respect for this epochal period of watchmaking, which became the basis for the joint project.

The imprint of Naoya Hida is noticeable on the dial. Using a design characteristic of the NH Type 1 and Type 2 models, all markings on the dial are engraved with a traditional pantograph engraving machine, including indices and brand signatures. The Arabic numerals at the 12, 3, and 9 o'clock positions are hand-engraved by renowned Japanese engraver Keisuke Kano and filled with blue Japanese urushi lacquer. The hour and minute hands are made of solid gold using CNC and finished to perfection by master Kosuke Fujita. The seconds hand is made of stainless steel and thermally treated to achieve a rich blue color.

Straps and Materials

The G.F.J. Calibre 135 model with Naoya Hida's double signature comes with three straps:

• Himeji Kurozan leather strap, treated with traditional tanning techniques and coated with multiple layers of Japanese urushi lacquer, giving the material a unique texture and depth.
• Wagyu leather strap, crafted by Kyoto Leather artisans.
• Japanese Kaihara Denim strap, produced in Fukuyama, Hiroshima, without elastic fibers.

All straps are equipped with a classic platinum clasp matching the watch's case.

Final Conclusions

Although this model is the first within the Double Signed program, Zenith has already had experience collaborating with independent watchmakers. Before the release of G.F.J. in 2025, the company, together with Kari Voutilainen, released a limited series of 10 pieces with restored 1950s Calibre 135-0 movements. In recent years, Louis Vuitton, part of the LVMH group along with Zenith, has also actively supported independent craftsmen, launching the Watch Prize for Independent Creatives in 2024 and releasing unique sympathy watches with De Bethune. Thus, the LVMH group demonstrates a strategy of supporting independent watchmaking, strengthening its position among enthusiasts.

With a limited release of only 10 pieces and a retail price of 103,500 Australian dollars, this model targets a narrow segment of collectors with high purchasing power. However, for most enthusiasts, the very existence of such a project is important - the union of a legendary Swiss brand and a young independent Japanese master with iconic status is an unexpected and pleasant event, setting a trend for future collaborations.

Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 with Naoya Hida & Co.: Price and Availability

The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida is released in a limited edition of 10 pieces and is already available for order. The retail price is 103,500 Australian dollars.