If you don't love vintage dive watches yet, do you have a pulse? Find out why I'm so captivated by this type of watch.
Dive watches are a universal breed. There are no hard and fast rules about how to wear them, and many brands have tried their hand at creating them (well, maybe a few). Even James Bond taught us how to wear them with a jacket and not look foolish.
Of all the styles of dive watches, whether they are leather diver watches, fully lumed watches, or watches with depth gauges and helium release valves, vintage dive watches are my absolute favorite.
I'm not just talking about true vintage dive watches. I also love vintage-style dive watches! They have an old-world charm (especially those made of bronze or adorned with old radium-style lume).
In honor of my love for vintage divers, I've prepared a brief guide. It covers the history of this watch style, why they are so collectible, and which watches I would choose if I were in your shoes. Let's get started.
The History of Dive Watches
The history of dive watches, at least from the moment they became sufficiently waterproof, is nothing short of thrilling.
Waterproof Technologies
The first waterproof watches appeared thanks to the hermetically sealed case. A man named Gruen applied for a patent in 1919. Later, Rolex and Zenith adopted this design, and today they are two leaders in this field.
The patent consisted of a small round case housed within a bulkier external case. The outer part had a cover that screwed tightly to the inner part.
Like a can, once the lid was screwed on, it became airtight. This design was the first solution for creating a maximally waterproof case. It emerged at a time when there were no systems for sealing the crown.
The problem with this design was that the cover had to be removed when the mechanism needed repair. The grooves on the side of the case would wear out over time, requiring replacement.
Today, of course, we take the waterproofness of modern watches for granted. Nevertheless, it's not as important now.
Many enthusiasts collecting dive watches do not intend to use them for their waterproofness. They simply enjoy their style and utilitarian value. This is one of the reasons vintage dive watches remain so popular today.
However, the hermetically sealed case lasted until 1926, when Rolex introduced the Oyster case. Its back cover, crown, and bezel were screwed into a solid middle case. It was a revolutionary design for its time.
Creating the perfect diving tool would be much easier if the manufacturer focused solely on waterproofness. However, legibility also plays a crucial role in a watch's ability to function underwater.
Lighting the Way
In 1916, the Florentine brand Officine Panerai developed a luminous material called Radiomir. The radium-based powder and paste could emit a rich glow in the dark, making them particularly useful for the Italian navy's personnel.
Twenty-two years later, Radiomir watches were already used by the Italian navy commandos. The watches came with a multilayered dial that allowed the Radiomir material to shine through the cutouts.
Then, in 1937, Omega released the first commercial dive watches with a waterproof depth of 135 meters. In 1948, the Seamaster model followed. Although these watches were legible and waterproof, they lacked the qualities that ultimately defined dive watches as a practical underwater tool.
Everything changed when Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms watches in 1952 for French combat divers. Various shape markers helped intuitively tell time, and a unidirectional rotating bezel helped measure elapsed time underwater.
Combat diving units worldwide quickly adopted this design.
Into the Abyss
Perhaps Blancpain was ahead of Rolex, but it was the Submariner that proved its capabilities at depths exceeding 3,000 meters. Adventurer Auguste Piccard strapped a Rolex to his wrist during a dive 3,100 meters underwater.
In 1960, Rolex would achieve another remarkable feat when Auguste's son reached the ocean's deepest point. An experimental Rolex accompanied this dive, reaching ten times deeper than the first.
Other watchmakers quickly capitalized on the success of dive watches. The first model from Japanese brand Seiko, the 62MAS, was released in 1965 and had a waterproof depth of up to 150 meters.
Due to some issues related to shock resistance and pressure resistance, Seiko made some improvements. In 1975, the Tuna Can model appeared, boasting a waterproof depth of 600 meters.
However, innovations kept emerging, and it became clear that dive watches were here to stay. IWC released the Deep One with a depth gauge built into a Bourdon tube. Building on this concept, Oris released the affordable Aquis Depth Gauge watch.
Since then, several record-breaking waterproof watches have appeared. Among them are the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, worn by James Cameron, and the Omega Five Deeps Expedition, released by Victor Vescovo.
Why Buy Retro Dive Watches?
Overall, even the oldest retro dive watches are generally more durable than ordinary watches released in the same era. This makes them a class above, say, vintage dress watches.
These days, we rarely wear them for diving, as their waterproofness has significantly decreased due to age. But because they served a very specific purpose, they can be considered a niche collectible item.
Today, dive watches must meet certain criteria. But they do not necessarily convey that old-school spirit we know and love.
Indeed, no one needs dive watches, but no one needs mechanical watches either. But that doesn't stop enthusiasts from buying them.
Dive watches evoke nostalgia and refer to a bygone era. It's an era enthusiasts secretly wish to return to, despite modern technology!
5 Best Vintage Dive Watches
Today, we rarely use dive watches. But it’s nice to know your watch has the capability if you ever want to test it.
Real vintage dive watches are an excellent collectible item. Some may even be worth a significant amount of money. But if you want practical, modern watches that combine form and function, you need vintage-style dive watches. They have all the modern technical specifications necessary for everyday wear while still boasting retro charm.
This list of favorites pays tribute to some of the most iconic tools in the history of dive watch culture.
Seiko Prospex SRP
As you already know, Seiko began producing dive watches very early. Today, the brand's catalog features many reinterpretations.
In 2016, Seiko released the Prospex SRP model, which with its rounded case edges, harks back to vintage models of the past. The SRP775K1 model features a classic black ribbed unidirectional bezel, a Hardlex front cover, and a recessed crown at the 4 o'clock position.
You can also take advantage of the watch's 200-meter water resistance and Lumibrite dial elements.
Seiko Prospex SRPJ93
These Seiko Prospex watches are a more affordable alternative to the Seiko Tuna models and can deceive anyone with their distinctly vintage character.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five
You can purchase the Divers Sixty-Five from Oris at a very reasonable price. After all, the manufacturer prides itself on affordability.
The watches are available in sizes of 38 mm, 40 mm, and 42 mm and combine modern features with vintage charm. Oris made the Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition from bronze, reminiscent of the material regularly used in vintage diving gear. And I just love it! For me, bronze dive watches are the pièce de resistance.
The most attractive element of these watches is the bronze top scale. It frames a rich blue dial with a two-component chronograph layout at three and 9H.
As the name suggests, the watch pays tribute to the first African American master diver in the US Navy. Moreover, Oris released only 2000 of these watches, making them a rather unusual collectible item.
Rolex Submariner
Whether you choose genuine vintage Rolex Subs or new ones, it doesn't matter. The Submariner looks as good today as it did in 1953. Equipped with all the features considered necessary for diving, the Rolex Submariner became one of the first commercially available dive watches in the world.
Among the most popular models is the vintage ref 6536, with a smaller crown and a compact 37 mm diameter. Another example is the reference 5512 with the inscription “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” and gold-plated dial details.
Modern Rolex Submariner watches are no less desirable. They feature some of the brand's latest technological innovations. These include Chromalight dial details and scratch-resistant Cerachrom bezels.
Zodiac Sea-Wolf
Perhaps the least expected vintage dive watch on my list is the Zodiac Sea-Wolf. Although released in the same year, they do not have the same luxury as the Rolex Submariner.
They are also not as recognizable as the Omega Seamaster or Blancpain Bathyscaphes. But that's precisely why I chose it.
Collectors often overlook contemporary versions of the Sea-Wolf, though they are no less striking. You are sure to recognize your way around the first 15 minutes marked on the Zodiac bezel.
Today, there are compression and GMT versions of the Sea-Wolf, but the Pro-Diver Automatic has retro appeal.
This subtle nod to vintage is partly due to the metal bracelet with an orange minute hand. Blancpain optimized the classic black dial for readability, with plenty of Super-LumiNova.
Panerai Luminor Base
I couldn't deny Panerai Luminor Base a place on this list of the best vintage dive watches. The watch features a brown dial with luminous beige Arabic numerals at the “12”, “3”, “6”, and “9 o'clock” positions. The vintage lume color and brown dial tones are decidedly earthy and full of character.
I particularly like the brown leather strap of these Panerai watches. It makes these vintage-style watches well-suited for both casual and formal wear.
The watches are also equipped with an in-house movement. The simplified display also lacks the sub-second dial often found in the brand's range.
Best Old Dive Watches
In my humble opinion, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms are the best old dive watches. I chose them not only because they are a great value proposition but also because they mark a historical milestone in watchmaking. They were the first dive watches with a rotating bezel.
This top is different from other models in this list. While other models are reissues of old watches, these are genuine, old dive watches from the 1970s.
The French navy used these watches in 1953, and their waterproof depth was 300 feet (fifty fathoms).
There are over 20 variants of this charming diver, equipped with a large Bakelite bezel and a crown with an O-ring gasket. Simply no other vintage dive watch looks like this!
The Fifty Fathoms are in demand because there were fewer of them than, say, the Rolex Sub. The military also used and destroyed many of them, further increasing their scarcity.
Rare specimens sell at auctions for between $30,000 to $50,000, but even more affordable models aren't cheap. Expect to pay around $20,000 for one, but if you have the money, it's worth it.
No-Rad versions of the Fifty Fathoms signify the moment in the 1970s when Blancpain replaced the dangerous radioactive radium with tritium. These versions were widespread at the time, but finding such watches in good condition is paramount.
Non-date models are particularly attractive as they reflect the military connection of the watches in a very purist form.
Wrapping Up
Old dive watches are no longer as relevant. Nevertheless, the solutions watchmakers tackled in this golden age are impressive. This is what makes us so captivated by vintage examples.
Rotating dive bezels, robust cases, legible dials with luminescent coatings - these are what make some models iconic. They have what we call “cultural presence” - something enthusiasts look for when seeking such a model.
If you want to acquire such watches, the options listed here are undoubtedly reliable investments.
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