There are many watches we've called "iconic" or "emblematic" over the years, but few contemporary watches can rival the status of the Lange 1 when it comes to high-end, elegant, and finely crafted timepieces. The watch that defines the brand since its revival in 1994 - thanks to the joint efforts of Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein - and which has been released in dozens of variations over the years, remarkably never had a standalone perpetual calendar… until recently. Of course, the Tourbillon QP already existed, but it took the Saxon brand 27 years to offer what is a classic of haute horology. And the result, undoubtedly, turned out to be very convincing, as we will now see with the stunning Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition in white gold with a salmon-colored rose gold dial… Yes, we love this combination at WatchTested!
The Beginning of Lange 1…
This watch with an unusually offset yet elegant display based on the golden ratio, featuring an off-center indication, a large date window, is a classic of all time - Lange 1 - has existed for 27 years, practically unchanged, which speaks volumes about how good the original design was… The Lange 1 was one of the first four models presented by Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein at the official relaunch of A. Lange & Söhne after the reunification of Germany in 1990. Presented alongside the Saxonia, Arkade, and Tourbillon pour le Mérite, the Lange 1 would prove to be the most enduring model, its style remaining unrivaled and practically untouched since its introduction. Look at the 1994 Lange 1 and the model currently in the collection, and you'd hardly notice any design differences.
Despite its very unusual display, A. Lange & Söhne managed to find smart solutions for creating dozens of variations. Moon phase indicator, travel watches, tourbillon, enlarged or reduced versions, automatic models… Almost all classic complications have been used in the Lange 1 collection. As of today, the perpetual calendar is no exception to the rule and appeared in the collection in 2012 - while the first Lange perpetual calendar appeared in 2001 on the Langematik Perpetual model. However, it is crucial to note that the QP complication was always combined with a tourbillon regulator, making these exclusive watches even more unattainable. Over the years, the watches were released in 5 different series - 100 LE pieces in platinum with a silver dial in 2012 (ref. 720.025), 15 LE pieces in white gold with an engraved "Handwerkskunst" dial in 2013 (ref. 720.048), classic edition in rose gold with a silver dial in 2014 (ref. 720.032), classic edition in white gold with a gray dial in 2015 (ref. 720.038) and 25 LE pieces in white gold with a silver "25th Anniversary" dial in 2019 (ref. 720.066).
The perpetual calendar is one of the 3-4 most important complications for a haute horology brand (along with the tourbillon, minute repeater, and split chronograph), so it was quite surprising that A. Lange & Söhne previously had no watches entirely focused on this namesake complication. However, part of the collection presented at the Watches & Wonders 2021 exhibition included precisely these watches - the new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (and nothing more).
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Salmon”
A quick glance at the new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar leaves no doubt about its lineage, both in terms of similarity to the tourbillon version and the integration of these watches into the Lange 1 family. Not only does the display fully resemble the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, but everything in these watches screams Lange 1. And this, truth be told, is simply impressive. Managing to create a display that simultaneously respects the original offset layout of the Lange 1 and integrates all the indicators needed for the QP is impressive. But since the tourbillon version already handled this task well, A. Lange & Söhne decided not to take risks, and most of the elements of this perpetual calendar returned in this form without the tourbillon.
The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar was introduced in April this year in two different versions. The first is a model that will become part of the permanent collection. It is housed in a rose gold case and features an elegant dark gray dial. But in honor of the launch of this new family member, ALS decided to please collectors and fans of the brand with an exclusive model that we are reviewing today. This is a limited edition of 150 pieces housed in a white gold case and equipped with a dial that is simply… stunning! And while we call it salmon for simplicity, it's actually something even more desirable. But more on that later.
The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is one of the largest members of the Lange 1 family, sharing its diameter with the Grand Lange 1. The case diameter of 41.9 mm is 3.4 mm larger than the classic Lange 1 (quite compact by today's standards with a diameter of 38.5 mm). Additionally, the Lange 1 QP has far more details than the regular Lange 1 and is an automatic model (a wise choice), resulting in a thickness of 12.1 mm. The height of the Grand Lange 1 is actually only 8.8 mm, but truth be told, the diameter-to-height ratio in this perpetual calendar is well balanced, and the entire watch works well. It is not small, but being a complex watch, it remains quite acceptable.
Otherwise, the case is typical for A. Lange & Söhne. It features a domed bezel with a polished finish, straight matte lugs, relatively strong lugs with a classic recessed line at the junction with the case, almost flat sapphire glass on top, and that very combination of slight robustness and elegance that we have loved in all ALS models. The 18-carat white gold metal is classic, restrained, and leaves room for the dial and its bolder color. The watch is worn on a dark brown alligator leather strap, closed with a white gold pin buckle, but I'm sure a more casual strap in smooth gray or taupe leather would match the dial and make this version even more appealing.
Before we talk about the dial itself - forgive me, I like to save the best for last - let's talk about the display. When you have a watch like the Lange 1, where much of its iconic status comes from the actual layout of the dial, you have to be respectful. There are things you simply cannot touch, and adding complications to these watches requires some ingenuity. Fortunately, there are several smart minds working under the ALS roof. First of all, the attractive asymmetry of the Lange 1 model has been preserved with the large date window at the “11 o'clock” position, the large hour and minute counter on the right, and the moon phase / small seconds indicator at the “7 o'clock” position - remember that if you connect the central parts of each indication, you get a perfect isosceles triangle… As you can see, this perpetual calendar chooses the indication of the Daymatic model, where the hours/minutes are located on the right side - a more practical solution in everyday life, as you can glance at the time even when the watch is partially hidden under a cuff.
Then there are the calendar readings. And here, some tricks were needed, but the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar already provided the answers. As for the date pointer, it's simple. The large date, a signature element of many ALS watches, remains as it was. The same goes for the day of the week indication, which was resolved in the Daymatic watch - there, 7 days replaced the power reserve indicator and used a retrograde indication to keep the central dial clean. Moon phase? Simple: use the small seconds, as in the Lange 1 Moon Phase model.
Next are the two most important QP indicators: month and leap year. And both work together: the month is displayed on a disc on the periphery of the dial (thus not interfering with the iconic display), and the leap year window serves as a pointer for the current month at the “6 o'clock” position. And voila, a simple, clean, intuitive perpetual calendar that shows everything you need while respecting what makes the Lange 1 a true Lange 1 - yes, it's always easier said than done… You will notice that the day-night indicator of the tourbillon model has disappeared, but in fact, ALS integrated it into the moon phase indicator, as was done in the updated Lange 1 Moon Phase 2017 model, with a partially tinted sapphire disc located above the blue moon disc.
Alright, enough hiding what is truly the most desirable part of this limited edition model… The gorgeously looking “salmon” (sort of) dial. You know that here at WatchTested, we love the combination of white metal cases with such pinkish dials. We even made our first Montre de Souscription model in this style. And in the context of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar model, it is simply stunning. Such a combination is rarely seen on ALS, and when the brand does it, it does so with a certain flair, as the dial is not lacquered, not gilded, and not galvanized, it is real pure rose gold with a matte, fine-grained finish. Combined with discreet white gold hands and indexes with rhodium plating and a subtle shade of blue for the moon, the result… okay, maybe I'm biased, but it looks gorgeous.
Automatic Caliber L021.3
ALS decided to equip these watches with an automatic movement - which makes sense in the context of a QP if you want to keep the watch on a winder. This movement, or at least its automatic base, is borrowed from the L021.1 caliber of the Lange 1 Daymatic model. The L021.3 caliber has been refined and equipped with a new winding mechanism with a unidirectional rotor made of 21-carat gold and an additional centrifugal mass of platinum. The balance with a cam cut operates at a frequency of 21,600 per hour, and the power reserve is 50 hours.
A very good note, all adjustments are made via the crown, and there are no recessed correctors in the bezel or even a button for date correction, as on classic Lange 1. This is a complex movement, consisting of no less than 621 parts and 63 jewels. As for the finishing, here you will find everything that Lange is respected for: fine stripes, gold chatons with blued screws, hand-polished bevels, a hand-engraved balance cock, and despite the full rotor, it is very beautifully executed and extremely pleasing to the eye. And of course, all parts are hand-decorated, and the movement itself is assembled twice.
Availability and Price
The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar with white and rose gold dial (ref. 345.056) is released in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Its price is 109,000 euros (including German taxes), which is objectively a significant sum for a simple perpetual calendar, even with such pedigree and stunning appearance.
More detailed information can be found on the A. Lange & Söhne website.