A couple of weeks ago, we introduced the latest Omega chronograph - an unexpected take on the brand's most famous watch, a complex, visually distinctive version of the Speedmaster called the Chronoscope. Although in this detailed article we thoroughly examined the reasons behind the name and all the technical specifications of the six stainless steel versions, I would like to return to the most distinctive and probably (at least for me) attractive of them. One of them is not made of stainless steel and has a much less sporty outfit. Let's take a closer look at the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Bronze Gold.
The name Chronoscope resonates with the history of Omega. It was used as early as 1885, and more recently was associated with the De Ville Chronograph watches. Behind this name lies a tribute to the brand's past, to the watches of the 1930s and 1940s with classic multi-scale dials, watches that were created for performing calculations at a time when such chronometers were full-fledged, functional instruments.
The name Chronoscope is aptly chosen because "chronograph" is somewhat of a misnomer in the industry; "graph" in the name means "to write" in English, while "scope" means "to observe" and thus would be a more realistic description - all this is explained in detail here. Omega explains that a chronoscope is "an instrument used for precise determination of the duration of an event," which is precisely the purpose of these watches.
While the collection consists of six different stainless steel models - three different dial colors (silver, blue, panda), available both on a strap and on a bracelet - the brand decided to add a seventh version, which is clearly separated from the rest. And while this special Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope model has the same technical specifications, proportions, and technical solutions as the steel models, it looks different as it is made of other materials.
The main feature of this Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Bronze Gold is the proprietary alloy from which the case is made. An in-house development, Bronze Gold is the result of Omega's research into bronze, one of the trendiest materials nowadays.
Since Omega did not want an alloy that would tarnish or oxidize under the influence of external aggressive factors, it instead developed something both durable and luxurious.
Omega's Bronze Gold consists of 50% copper (the main element of classic bronze alloys), 37.5% gold, silver for color, and smaller amounts of gallium (a very rare metal that melts at 30 degrees) and palladium. This provides a very specific color, closer to traditional bronze (at least when new) and different from the brand's other patented gold alloys (Sedna and Moonshine). At the same time, it qualifies as 9-carat gold and can therefore be hallmarked. The result is an interesting color and shine, unlike anything you've seen before. And most importantly, it allows you to enjoy the bronze color without unpleasant discoloration and oxidation.
As for the rest, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Bronze Gold case is identical to the steel models. The watch is not small at all, with a diameter of 43 mm. But keep in mind that it's only 1 mm larger than the classic Moonwatch, the case is quite thin - 12.8 mm (thinner than the Moonwatch) and the lug-to-lug length is only 48 mm, which is relatively compact given the diameter (this size is usually characteristic of watches with a diameter of 40-41 mm). On the wrist, the watch has a certain heft but feels balanced and comfortable - it will suit most men's wrists. Additionally, the color of the watch is very pleasant and less polarizing than traditional yellow or rose gold.
There are other distinctive features of this Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Bronze Gold model. It retains the box-shaped sapphire crystal, classic twisted lugs and the signature asymmetrical Speedy design, as well as a bezel with a ceramic insert (in steel models, it's aluminum) and a tachymeter scale in vintage enamel color. The bronze gold case has water resistance of 50 m, and in this case, it is worn on a brown leather strap with a clasp matching the case material.
The dial of the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope is undoubtedly the most polarizing and surprising element of these watches. While Speedmasters have often been utilitarian and somewhat minimalist, this Chronoscope model features visual complexity: no fewer than three different scales are applied in successive concentric circles. On the bezel are three tachymeter scales - from 500 to 60 units, and in the center of the dial is a two-level additional scale that allows measuring speed from 60 to 20 units. Also on the inner part of the dial are a telemeter and a pulsometer. The watch has a bi-compax layout, with a small seconds hand at the "9 o'clock" position and a minute/hour sub-counter at the "3 o'clock" position... and no date!
Another feature of this Speedmaster Chronoscope Bronze Gold is the dial material. Like the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, this chronoscope's dial is made from solid bronze. Its color is the result of a natural oxidation process, resulting in a dark, not too warm gray-brown color. On its surface are Arabic numerals, as well as bronze leaf-shaped hands... elements that are clearly not traditional attributes of the Speedmaster.
We have already heard comments regarding the steel models, mostly indicating that the complexity of the dial and its vintage appeal (inspiration from the 1930s) do not match the modernity of the case (inspiration from the 1960s Speedmasters). It seems to me that in this more luxurious and warm context, complemented by the color of Bronze Gold and the darker color of the bronze dial, the combination is very pleasing to the eye, and the watch really works - of course, it's a personal matter, but I think the balance is right!
Under the sapphire caseback is the newly developed manual-winding caliber 9908, responsible for the reduced height of the case. Created based on the automatic Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber series 99xx, it retained all the features of these automatic versions - double barrel, 60-hour power reserve, 4 Hz frequency, anti-magnetic properties, Co-Axial escapement, Master Chronometer certification - but now has a decorated ¾ plate with Geneva waves emanating from the balance center. The chronograph function is still powered by a high-end combination of a column wheel and a vertical clutch.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Bronze Gold Co-Axial Master Chronometer 43mm (ref. 329.92.43.51.10.001) will be released in November 2021 as part of the permanent collection. It will retail for 13,900 euros or 14,000 Swiss francs.
More information can be found at omegawatches.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE BRONZE GOLD 43MM
Case: 43 mm diameter x 12.8 mm height – 48 mm lug-to-lug – patented Bronze Gold alloy combining bronze, several rare metals, and 37.5% gold – qualifies as 9k gold – matte and polished – fixed steel bezel with brown ceramic insert, vintage color enamel tachymeter scale – sapphire crystals front and back – water resistance 50 m.
Dial: solid bronze dial, color obtained through natural oxidation – applied Arabic numerals – concentric pattern on the chapter ring – recessed counters with concentric pattern – polished leaf-shaped hands – 3 different scales (tachymeter, telemeter, pulsometer) printed
Movement: Omega caliber 9908, in-house – Master Chronometer certified – manual-winding chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch – 44 jewels – 28,800 vph – 60-hour power reserve – Co-Axial escapement – magnetic resistance 15,000 gauss – hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with co-axial hours and minutes counter, no date
Strap: brown calf leather strap with vintage stitching – Bronze Gold buckle with Omega logo
Reference: 329.92.43.51.10.001
Availability: November 2021
Retail price: 14,000 SWISS FRANCS
13,900 EUROS