One crucial observation over the years of knowing ArtyA watches is that their models fully reveal themselves only upon personal inspection.
Photos rarely capture the full depth and features of the pieces. The brand's signature fascination with unusual materials and non-standard case shapes often results in watches that behave entirely differently in person. The new Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon is an example that requires direct interaction to appreciate its full merits.
Curvy Case Features: Harmony of Shape and Comfort
Last September, during Geneva Watch Days, I visited the ArtyA boutique to closely examine the brand's latest models. It was my first time seeing the Curvy case in person, and the name immediately made sense. The case smoothly curves in soft arcs from lug to lug, without sharp edges, creating a form that fits more naturally on the wrist than it might seem from the tonneau-shaped case diagram. Despite the sculptural look, the watch proved surprisingly comfortable. These curves are not just a design choice; they have practical significance as well.
Moissanite: A Cosmic Material with Unique Properties
ArtyA took the Curvy architecture to a new level with the Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon model. At first glance, the case appears to be carved from a single crystal, but it is actually made from moissanite - a material with a history as intriguing as the watch itself.
Material Origin
Moissanite was first discovered in 1893 by French chemist Henri Moissan while studying meteorite crater fragments. Today, moissanite is produced synthetically, but its discovery is inextricably linked to extraterrestrial origins. Despite its visual similarity to sapphire, moissanite differs in chemical composition: sapphire is aluminum oxide, while moissanite is silicon carbide, giving the material unique physical properties.
Hardness and Processing Difficulty
In watchmaking, moissanite is a rare choice. Its hardness on the Mohs scale is about 9.25-9.5, slightly below diamond and significantly higher than most materials typically used for cases. Such hardness provides high scratch resistance but also greatly complicates processing and polishing compared to traditional sapphire.
Optical Characteristics
Moissanite's interaction with light gives it particular appeal. The material's dispersion index is around 0.104 - more than twice that of a diamond. This means moissanite refracts light, creating bright spectral colors and a unique "fire" that diamonds can only replicate. Each facet of the case acts as a mini-prism, giving color shifts that change with the watch's movement. As a result, the case acquires a subtle rainbow effect, altering depending on the viewing angle.
Curvy Geometry: Play of Light and Form
Returning to the Curvy design, it is worth noting that the case geometry significantly affects light behavior. The watch measures 41 mm wide and 42 mm long (excluding lugs), with a case profile that smoothly curves, following the wrist's shape. The design is intended not as architectural but as smooth and fluid, which pairs well with moissanite's optical properties.
The case consists of 65 facets, each refracting light in its own way. Combined with curved surfaces, this creates an effect where the internal mechanism seems to change depth based on the viewing angle.
- From some angles, the mechanism appears as if floating inside the crystal.
- From others, the curved side surfaces act like a magnifying glass, emphasizing the mechanism's details.
Unlike many transparent watches, where the case is made as inconspicuous as possible, here the case becomes part of the visual spectacle, shaping the perception of the mechanism. This is a thoughtful and original approach.
Mechanism Adapted to the Case
Inside the Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon is ArtyA's proprietary caliber PUR-T3 Curvy Tourbillon. Instead of placing a traditional movement in a curved case, the mechanism's architecture mirrors the watch's shape.
- The display of hours and minutes is shifted to the upper part of the dial.
- The tourbillon is located at the bottom at the "6 o'clock" position.
Technical Specifications:
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration Frequency | 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours guaranteed |
| Potential Power Reserve | 70-72 hours (depending on conditions) |
| Power Source | Two barrels mounted in parallel |
The tourbillon uses a classic adjustment method with weights instead of a standard regulator, ensuring precise balance adjustment. This approach guarantees not only technical reliability but also high accuracy.
Modern Approach to Mechanism Finishing
The mechanism's finishing is restrained to avoid competing with the case's visual complexity. The skeletonized bridges are sandblasted with cast iron to create a fine matte texture. The beveled edges are hand-chamfered to highlight the mechanism's geometry.
Gray NAC coating gives the components a darker shade, contrasting with the brightness of the moissanite case. Instead of vying for attention with the case's light show, the finishing emphasizes the structure and depth of the mechanism. The resulting visual balance is impressive: the case creates drama, while the mechanism remains clear and expressive.
Conclusions: Light and Innovation in the Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon
ArtyA traditionally does not follow standard paths. Their watches are often based on unusual materials and bold design solutions that advance horological art in unexpected directions.
The Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon is a logical continuation of this philosophy. The combination of Curvy architecture with optically expressive moissanite transforms the case into an active element of visual perception. Production is limited to just nine pieces, each priced at CHF 170,000 / €189,000 / US$216,000.
As I confirmed during my visit in September, ArtyA watches truly reveal themselves only upon personal acquaintance. If you find yourself in Geneva, a visit to the boutique is worth it. Additionally, the brand will be represented at the Watches and Wonders exhibition - another opportunity to see this model in person.
