Why have only one good thing when you can have two?
The dial of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph features the famous Grande Tapisserie pattern and a smoky effect. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding model lacks a three-dimensional effect on the dial, instead using a graduated effect combined with a forged gold case. In Le Brassus, the hometown of AP located in the deserted Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura mountains, there is no such thing as 'too much of a good thing' - apparently, harsh winters have taught them this. Recently, I tasted both luxurious sports models, and besides other impressions, I was left with a taste of crème brûlée in my mouth.
Both the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.02 and the Frosted Gold Selfwinding ref. 15550BA.GG.1356BA.01 are rich watches. Firstly, the abundance of yellow gold dictates very 'rich' prices - the chronograph costs 78,600 euros, and the three-hand model sells for 68,600 euros. Then, there is the abundance of shapes, textures, and shades. But one of the distinctive features of both yellow gold Royal Oak models is the presence of fumé dials. These gradient (or ombre) dials smoothly transition from black at the outer edge of the dial to a lighter golden hue. In the case of the self-winding chronograph, the color transition occurs on the already very noticeable Grande Tapisserie dial. The result is a powerful and rich play of light - 'rich' like crème brûlée for dessert after a hearty dinner. And the 37mm three-hand model serves the famous French dish on a sparkling gold plate. Is it too much?
41mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in Yellow Gold
The main 'ingredients' of the 41mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.02 are the 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet. The 50-meter water-resistant case is 41mm wide, 12.4mm thick, and 53mm long. Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating is installed over the dial and on the case back. Through the latter, you can see the Audemars Piguet caliber 4401, the first proprietary automatic chronograph movement. The 4 Hz movement consists of 391 parts, has a 70-hour power reserve, and measures 32mm in diameter and 6.8mm in thickness. It's the same flyback chronograph caliber showing hours, minutes, small seconds, and date that debuted in 2019 in the Code 11.59 chronograph.
Operating the chronograph is a real pleasure. The action of the buttons is smooth, yet firm and precise. The heavy gold watch also provides a stable platform when starting, stopping, and resetting the chronograph. If these watches were made of titanium, the feel of operating them on the wrist would be entirely different.
Take a Look at the Appearance
The finish of the watch and its mechanism are simply magnificent, leaving nothing to be desired. The bracelet is smooth and comfortable, and yes, the golden 41mm 'RO' is a heavy companion on the wrist, but that's also self-evident. I doubt that people on the verge of acquiring these precious metal watches would be deterred by their heaviness.
But I want to comment on the appearance. More precisely, I already commented, but it's overkill. The fumé on the Grande Tapisserie is like fries on pizza. Is that a bad comparison? Okay. But in my opinion, it's not Tournedos Rossini, a prime example of when too much of a good thing is good. The mere thought of a fillet steak on a crouton soaked in sauce, with foie gras fried in butter, a few slices of shaved truffle, and drizzled with Madeira sauce takes my breath away.
No Tapisserie, Just Fumé
The question of why AP insisted on using the fumé dial is likely related to its fashionability. It's used by many brands in all segments of the watch world. But none of these brands have a Royal Oak with a unique type of dial in their collection. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding ref. 15550BA.GG.1356BA.01 doesn't have a tapisserie at all. This mid-sized RO showcases a smooth yellow-gold dial with smoky specks. This dial sounds and looks less dynamic/more refined than the dial of the larger chronograph, but it is surrounded by a wilder frame than its more complex counterpart. The sparkling and luminescent properties of the frosted gold case and bracelet are no less, and possibly even more noticeable than the double decor of the chronograph's dial.
The 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet with a forged finish are simply delightful. They are very different, out of the ordinary, and semi-retro (or even antique). The ombre dial, on the other hand, is a bit too mainstream. The matte gold-based approach, I think, works much better in the RO Perpetual Calendar in white gold ref. 26574BC.GG.1224BC.01, released in a limited series of 35 pieces with a black Grande Tapisserie dial.
37mm on the Wrist
Once, I wrote an article 'There’s More to the AP Royal Oak Than “Jumbo”'. In it, I talked about the 37mm light-blue Royal Oak Selfwinding ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04. It looked fresh, sporty, and light, and seemed like a worthy alternative to the somewhat larger and disproportionate 41mm version of the three-hander and a budget alternative to the iconic “Jumbo”.
Later, I found that it wasn't for me. If the 38mm RO Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26715ST.OO.1356ST.01 is a great alternative to the 41mm version for those with smaller wrists and/or who love small watches, the 37mm RO seemed too small and odd to me.
The 37mm x 9.1mm x 46.5mm case does not match my preferences. And the fact that it houses a Vaucher-made caliber 5900 doesn't help either. I know, it's nitpicking, but the proprietary caliber 4302 in the 41mm RO Selfwinding is a more pleasing mechanism to look at. Besides, the 188-part 5900 is based on the Vaucher 3002 caliber. For the AP price, I want something proprietary and original. However, I'm sure most 37mm RO owners aren't as nitpicky as I am in this regard.
Final Thoughts on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph and Frosted Gold Selfwinding
The Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph and Frosted Gold Selfwinding watches, presented to you this Monday, are new additions to the Royal Oak collection consisting of 140 models for 2024. I wouldn't choose either. There are several others that I definitely like more. But hey, not every watch in the collection can be to everyone's taste or become a future icon. Frosted Gold from AP might become iconic in the long term. But any future classic in forged gold won't have a fumé dial, I can tell you that for sure. Moreover, the fact that the black-and-yellow gold color scheme reminded me of crème brûlée as soon as I saw it makes me doubt its longevity.
In any case, more detailed information about these two new versions and all the other 138 models in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak family can be found on the brand's official website. And if after reading this guide you feel like making crème brûlée (and I will!), here are five key ingredients for a classic, rich French dessert. To make crème brûlée you will need cream, vanilla, salt, eggs, and sugar, as well as a small blowtorch. How to turn these ingredients into an exquisite and elegant dessert can be found on YouTube.