Panerai's "Watches & Wonders 2024" campaign was entirely focused on the brand's participation in the America's Cup.
The brand sponsors the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, which competes in the prestigious sailing competition. Even the Panerai booth at the exhibition was a grand celebration of Luna Rossa, featuring yacht graphics and even a prototype racing boat suspended from the ceiling.
Naturally, all the new watches presented at the event were Luna Rossa models. I wrote an introductory article even before the exhibition and had the chance to wear three of them. Here's how we fared with them!
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Tourbillon GMT PAM01405
Let's start with the most unusual - the Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Tourbillon GMT PAM01405. Panerai will release only 20 of these watches, priced at €195,000. So, admittedly, this is not exactly useful consumer advice. Nevertheless, I am happy to make the sacrifice and bear the heavy burden of trying these watches for you, my friends!
This is a 45mm Submersible made from Carbotech - a carbon fiber-based material claimed to offer increased strength and wear resistance. I would drag the watch across a concrete floor to test this, but apparently, our insurance won't cover it. Water resistance - as it's a Submersible - is 300 meters.
But the most impressive details are inside. It houses the P.2015/T caliber in an open-frame without a dial. A tourbillon at the 10 o'clock position, day/night indicator at 3 o'clock, sail-shaped GMT hand, and a power reserve indicator on the case back. The strap is adorned with the signature red stripe associated with the Luna Rossa team.
Surprisingly comfortable to wear
When I put on the Luna Rossa PAM01405, I immediately noticed how comfortable they are to wear. Undoubtedly, these are large watches, but that's exactly what you expect and want from Panerai. I mean, they're not intimidating. Perhaps you're familiar with the feeling often evoked by ultra-high-end watches, especially large ones. They can be a bit overwhelming and cause some anxiety, constantly and uncomfortably occupying your mind. Perhaps I'm proving that I'm just too poor to play in this field.
I want to say that this isn't the case with these watches. The lightness of Carbotech certainly helps in this regard. Besides, at their core, these are sports watches, despite the fancy caliber. The fabric strap, aesthetics, Luna Rossa theme - all create the impression that the watch can withstand any challenge.
This is undoubtedly a strong point. However, there are two sides to this coin. Despite its sportiness, utility, and down-to-earth nature, it doesn't feel particularly special. I'd expect a bit more of a wow factor if I spent 200 thousand. We just can't be pleased, can we? Nonetheless, I highly appreciate the design of the PAM01405. The skeletonization is very well done, which goes without saying.
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01466
Let's move on to something more mainstream. "Mainstream"? Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01466 still costs €16,900. Well, at least it's not limited! I won't repeat all the technical specifications here - you can read them in the introductory article if you wish. Let me briefly focus on the real wearing impressions.
The case material of the Luna Rossa Submersible PAM01466 is interesting. The watch is made from titanium, which is then coated with ceramic. "What's the point?" you ask. According to Panerai, in this case, you get the best of both worlds. The material resists scratches like ceramic but is 10 times more resistant to chipping than solid ceramic. At the same time, it is 44% lighter than steel.
So, what is it really like? If you told me it was "ordinary" ceramic, I would believe you. And that's a good thing. The material is light, smooth, and quite beautiful. These 44mm Submersibles look proud and bold on the wrist. On my 17.5 cm wrist, they actually look good. The only thing I don't like is the combination of the case and the dial. The case has a tactical, dull appearance that I adore, but the bright sunburst dial, in my opinion, doesn't match it.
Submersible Luna Rossa Titanium GMT PAM01507
The last Luna Rossa model is the most affordable (€12,500). These 42mm titanium-cased watches are the most comfortable to wear of them all. Behind the blue dial lies the P.900/GMT24H caliber with a GMT complication and running seconds hand at the 9 o'clock position. The GMT hand tip again features a sail. We also see a similar fabric strap with the signature Luna Rossa stripe.
These are the most "normal" feeling of all the watches on the wrist. This is partly due to the smaller form factor. The familiar look of titanium also helps, contrasting with the exotic materials of the other two models.
General impressions
You might have guessed that I'm not overly enthusiastic about the Luna Rossa release. These are very well-made watches, don't get me wrong. But it seems to me that they are trying too hard. The Submersible is a watch with significant visual impact. They don't need additional design elements in the form of complications and co-branding. When I look at the base model Submersible, I see a design driven by a certain artistic impulse. You could say it has aesthetic significance. These new models don't have the same impact on me. Simply put, I see too much marketing and too little artistry.
In a way, it's unfair to blame these new Panerai watches for this. Why? Because the collection has plenty of options that are more to my taste, and I generally don't like watches with joint branding and sponsorship deals. They always seem a bit contrived to me. But then again, these watches are aimed at an audience to which I do not belong.
So, do I recommend these Luna Rossa models? Yes, but with two caveats. First, I assume you are a big fan of the America's Cup and want to express this in your watch. Second, you must be prepared for fairly high prices, especially compared to competing watches in this segment.
Final thoughts on the Luna Rossa release
These watches sparked lively discussion in the WatchTested office. Who are these co-branded watches for? We concluded that we, as watch enthusiasts, are not drawn to them, whether they are Tudor Alinghi models, Olympic special editions Omega, or these Panerai Luna Rossa versions. There must be serious commercial gain in their creation, otherwise, they wouldn't be so prevalent in the watch industry. But they seem to go over our heads.
What do you think about these three Panerai Luna Rossa models? And about sponsorship specials in general? Tell us in our Telegram channel.