The market is filled with top-notch watch brands - from Audemars Piguet to Rolex, each boasting a vast catalog of magnificent timepieces, some more recognizable than others.
However, these big names and the watches they are associated with often come with a hefty price tag, making their purchase a daunting task for most ordinary people.
If you are not a celebrity, royalty, trust fund baby, or one of those rare self-made wealthy individuals, chances are you cannot afford the price to wrap a Patek Philippe around your wrist. But that does not mean you cannot find watches that exude the same style and substance - you just need to know where to look. We have compiled a list of eight of the most iconic watches of all time and scoured the watch world for suitable alternatives that can be purchased for much less than their ultra-premium counterparts.
What Makes a Watch Iconic?
Not many watches achieve iconic status, as it usually requires something extraordinary to turn a simple wrist chronometer into an essential piece of high culture. But it does happen. In many cases, watches become famous because of who wore them. Sometimes it may be a real person with massive influence, like Steve McQueen, and sometimes a fictional character like James Bond. Other watches achieve cult status due to the events they were part of. The most vivid example is the Omega Speedmaster, which became the first watch on the Moon. Finally, some watches gain cult status purely by their merits, typically by bringing something new to the watch world.
Why Are They So Expensive?
The reasons iconic elite watches are so expensive are similar to why any luxury items increase in price. They are made using costly high-quality materials. They are crafted with precision and skill. Typically, they are produced in limited quantities, which increases demand and, consequently, raises the price. Luxury watch manufacturers also spend a lot of money not only on production but also allocate huge budgets for research and development of new watches and marketing to luxury-class customers. It is also worth noting that many iconic luxury watches are produced in Switzerland, a country with a centuries-old watchmaking history and one of the highest living standards in the world. The average fast food worker in Switzerland earns about $40,000 a year, and what do you think an experienced Patek Philippe case finisher brings home? The thought can be staggering.
What Are Homage Watches?
In watch circles, you might hear the term "homage watches." Unlike replicas - shameless fakes trying to pass themselves off as the real McCoy - homage watches do not pretend to be what they are not. Sure, they may look exactly like a Rolex Submariner, the most common watch, but they do not have Rolex written on their dial. Instead, they have their own logo, company name, and model name. Sometimes they even add minor design changes not to be a direct copy. Homage watches are not necessarily bad, and not everyone has complaints about them. Indeed, companies like Steinhart, Squale, and MKII produce very high-quality Swiss homage watches. But many in the watch community dislike them, seeing their design as nothing more than corporate theft. Therefore, you will not find any homage watch models in this guide.
The Icon
Omega Seamaster
The Seamaster appeared in various iterations as early as 1948, but it was not until the 90s, when the Professional Diver 300m variant with a "blue wave" dial was released, that they achieved iconic status. Worn by Pierce Brosnan as James Bond in the 1995 film "GoldenEye," they remained on 007's wrist until Daniel Craig's debut in the 2006 film "Casino Royale." For an entire generation of watch enthusiasts, these are the watches that started it all.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Movement: Automatic
Alternatives
Orient Kamasu
Good: Orient is a Japanese watch company existing since 1950. They are mostly known for their divers, and the Kamasu model deserves special respect. With sapphire crystal, 200 m water resistance, and in-house automatic movement, the Kamasu is an excellent replacement for the Omega - especially in blue.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Seiko Prospex SRPC93
Better: Speaking of Japanese diving watches, Seiko produces some of the most beloved diving watches in the world - and they produce them in large quantities. This model belongs to the premium Prospex line and boasts a blue gradient wave dial that some consider even brighter than Omega's. A true diver with an ISO rating, withstanding diving up to 200 meters. The watch is equipped with Seiko's Caliber 4R35 automatic movement and the infamous bright LumiBrite lume.
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300
Best: Often called the budget Seamaster, the C60 Trident Pro 300 is arguably the best diving watch for around $1,000. Where else can you find a ceramic bezel, AR-coated sapphire crystal, quick-adjust stainless steel bracelet, and Swiss-made automatic movement? Of course, you can get all this in a Seamaster, but the Trident also has a fully luminescent bezel and offers 300 m water resistance.
- Diameter: 38 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Movement: Automatic
The Icon
Omega Speedmaster Professional
The beloved NASA-approved "Moonwatch" is perhaps the most historic watch model ever. Recently updated for 2021, it features Omega's latest in-house movement, finally equipping the Speedy with a co-axial escapement and METAS certification. The model is available in several options, but purists prefer the original black dial with Hesalite glass and a solid case back.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Automatic
Alternatives
Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope
Good: Junghans is a German watch company, one of the most associated with the Bauhaus design movement. They are especially known for their collaboration with designer Max Bill, which includes this mechanical chronograph - a design icon in its own right. The Chronoscope model is equipped with a reworked Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement and, like the Speedy model, has the hazy warmth of Hesalite glass.
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Automatic
Dan Henry 1962
Better: Dan Henry is a world-renowned watch collector, and his budget brand creates quality watches inspired by some of his favorite vintage models from his stash. The 1962 model was inspired by watches of the same year, giving it truly impressive retro vibes (the first Omega Speedmasters debuted in 1957). The 1962 model features a tachymeter bezel, just like the Speedy, and is powered by a meca-quartz movement that combines a battery-powered chronometer with a mechanical chronograph module, giving the chrono-second hand a pleasant sweep.
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Meca-quartz
Bulova Lunar Pilot
Best: These watches resemble the Speedy for a reason. During the "Apollo 15" mission in 1971 - the fourth manned flight to the Moon - a NASA astronaut wore a specially crafted "Lunar Pilot" chronograph by Bulova on the lunar surface. These watches are based on that historic model but updated with an extremely accurate high-performance Bulova 262 kHz quartz movement and sapphire crystal.
- Diameter: 43.5 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Quartz
The Icon
Tag Heuer Monaco
This iconic square-shaped racing chronograph adorned the wrist of style icon Steve McQueen in the film "Le Mans," and though the film was not a hit, the watch certainly became one. Today's version of the watch, named after the Monaco Grand Prix, has retained the unique style of the original, equipped with sapphire crystal and Tag Heuer's signature Calibre 11 automatic chronograph movement.
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic Chronograph
Alternatives
REC Watches P-51 Green Hornet
Excellent: Watches cannot be more tied to automotive history than these. Released in a limited edition, this REC model is equipped with a dial made from the 1968 Shelby EXP500 prototype, the Green Hornet. Such a connection to a car, combined with a cushion case, sapphire crystal, auto-inspired design touches, and Swiss assembly make these watches a worthy competitor to the Monaco.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Automatic
Brew Retrograph Technicolor
Better: Although Brew watches look like a racing chronograph, they are actually inspired by coffee culture, and the unique color of the chronograph's second track is calculated to determine the time of the perfect espresso shot. The Technicolor variant of this meca-quartz chronograph is in beautiful retro color combinations that are not too different from the famous Monaco livery.
- Diameter: 38 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Hybrid meca-quartz chronograph
Straton Speciale
Best: Straton is a microbrand with an automotive theme, specializing in vintage-style chronographs. The square-shaped Speciale watch closely resembles Monaco's signature look. The watches are available in several color options, including a stylish Heuer combination of blue, orange, and white, and can be equipped with either a meca-quartz movement or a Swiss-made Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic Chronograph or meca-quartz
The Icon
Panerai Luminor
Luminor was an obscure Italian military watch manufacturer until 1993 when it began introducing its large-sized watches to the public. They found a fan in Sylvester Stallone, who wore the 44mm Luminor in the 1995 film "Daylight." The following year, action star Arnold Schwarzenegger wore the Luminor Marina in "Eraser." Soon Luminor became a major Hollywood status symbol and helped launch the oversized watch trend of the last two decades.
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Movement: Manual Wind
Alternatives
Longines Conquest
Good: Longines is one of the most historically significant Swiss watch companies, existing since 1832, and is a luxury brand in its own right. The Conquest model is one of their more affordable models, but you would never know it from the black lacquered dial, AR-coated sapphire crystal, and 300-meter water resistance. Additionally, the dial's bold 12 and 6 numerals and oversized crown guards are sure to appeal to any Italian watch.
- Diameter: 43 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Movement: Quartz
Hamilton Khaki BeLOWZERO
Better: Another renowned Swiss brand with a rich history, Hamilton is known as a favorite Hollywood watch brand due to its frequent appearances in films. These specific watches appeared on Matt Damon's wrist in "The Martian." They feature an imposing 46mm case in a form very similar to the Luminor, along with a 1000-meter water resistance. The black PVD coating also helps it stand out in a crowd.
- Diameter: 46 mm
- Water Resistance: 1,000 m
- Movement: Automatic
Spinnaker Hull California
Best: At 42mm, these Spinnaker watches do not reach the gargantuan proportions of the Luminor. However, they are still large watches, and when combined with a cushion case, military-style luminescent numerals, and an automatic movement, they evoke similar vibes.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic
The Icon
Rolex Submariner
The Sub is considered the most iconic watch in the world, boasting almost every virtue. Released in 1954, it became one of the first modern dive watches and was the first to combine professional diving capabilities with everyday appeal. Thanks to its versatile style, it became popular with many celebrities and historical figures, including James Bond played by Sean Connery, and became the most imitated watch on the planet.
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Movement: Automatic
Alternatives
Glycine Combat Sub
Good: Glycine is a Swiss watch company with a remarkable history: their Airman became the first GMT watch in the world, preceding the Rolex GMT Master by a year. But today, we are looking at Glycine's dive model - the Combat Sub. It is equipped with a Swiss-made automatic movement, AR-coated sapphire crystal, and 200 m water resistance - not to mention an appealing style that does not merely mimic Rolex.
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Mido Ocean Star
Better: Another renowned Swiss brand, Mido from Le Locle, has been producing watches since 1918. Over the past century, they have learned a thing or two, such as making outstanding diving watches. The Ocean Star model has similar characteristics to the Glycine - sapphire crystal, 314L stainless steel case, 200 m water resistance, and an ETA-based movement - but offers a more polished look and a higher level of finish, matching its higher price.
- Diameter: 42.5 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Monta Oceanking
Best: Monta is a microbrand from Saint Louis that heavily draws on Rolex, but not in a derivative sense. Like Rolex, Monta produces Swiss-made sports watches with professional capabilities and luxury finishing. The Oceanking model features a ceramic bezel, rhodium-plated hands, a lacquered dial, 300 m water resistance, blue BGW9 SuperLumiNova lume, and a micro-adjustment bracelet that they claim is the most comfortable in the world.
- Diameter: 40.5 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Movement: Automatic
The Icon
Rolex GMT Master II
Although technically not the first GMT watch - that is, a watch that tracks a second time zone on a 24-hour scale thanks to the use of a fourth hand - it is the GMT Master that comes to mind when people hear the word "GMT." Released in 1954 at the request of Pan-Am for pilots who needed a watch to track two different time zones, it remains the most iconic GMT variant with a "Pepsi" bezel that has adorned the wrists of many film and TV heroes, from Pussy Galore to Magnum P.I.
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic
Alternatives
Certina DS Action GMT
Good: Despite existing since 1888 and sharing the same parent company as Omega, Longines, Hamilton, and Mido, Certina simply does not draw much attention. And it is a shame when it comes to models like the DS Action GMT. The automatic movement of this watch is something special, as it has an 80-hour power reserve and a independently adjustable hour hand, known as a "true GMT," a feature offered by few brands other than Rolex.
- Diameter: 43 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Timex Q Timex Reissue
Better: While not a GMT and certainly not a luxury watch, the Q Timex Reissue is still a lot of fun. Based on a 70s Timex model, these battery-powered quartz watches feature a bidirectional 12-hour Pepsi bezel, allowing the owner to track a second time zone without using an expensive GMT movement, as well as a retro bracelet.
- Diameter: 38 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Quartz
Lorier Hyperion
Best: The latest and greatest model from this New York microbrand is one of the best GMTs for under a thousand. The Hyperion model uses the same vintage design language as the entire Lorier line, and the travel watch looks like it came straight out of the 50s. This is due to the use of old-school plexiglass not only for the glass but also for the bidirectional full-lume Pepsi bezel, reminiscent of the bakelite bezels on the earliest Rolex GMT Masters.
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic
The Icon
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The legendary designer Gerald Genta forever changed the world of watches by releasing the Royal Oak in 1972. Until then, luxury watches were made from precious metals - gold, etc., but Genta proved that steel could be just as luxurious if it was finished to an impossibly beautiful level. The result was the first-ever luxury steel sports watch - a genre that today completely dominates the field. And it would not have been possible without this octagonal icon.
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Automatic
Alternatives
Maurice Lacroix Aikon
Good: It is hard to imagine more perfect watches at this price. The Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix, which appeared on the market in 1975, became a sales hit, quickly turning into its signature model. The integrated five-link bracelet, tapisserie dial, and decorated bezel remind you of the Royal Oak while showcasing its own unique and very appealing style.
- Diameter: 35 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Victorinox I.N.O.X. Mechanical
Better: The Royal Oak is, of course, a sports watch, but let's be realistic: No one is going to play sports with a $20,000 accessory on their wrist. But with the I.N.O.X., you can practically do whatever you want and not worry about a thing. These watches are built like a tank (and they are almost that big), yet they have attractive finishing and a textured dial that reminds you of A.P.
- Diameter: 43 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Movement: Automatic
Tissot PRX
Best: Some fans have already dubbed these watches "TissOak" for their integrated bracelet design and flashy finishing. This affordable new model from the 168-year-old Tissot company has already become a sales hit. With a utilitarian quartz movement inside, you pay for the quality of finishing, and you definitely get your money's worth. And if the quartz movement offends you, fear not: Tissot will release an automatic version with the Powermatic 80 movement this summer.
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Quartz
The Icon
Patek Philippe Nautilus
The Royal Oak is not the only sports watch with a steel integrated bracelet designed by Genta. In 1976, he created the Nautilus model for the world's most prestigious watch brand, Patek Philippe. With its unusual porthole-style case and striking vertically brushed bezel, the watch gradually gained popularity, which has only increased in recent years. The ref. 5711 model, first introduced in 2006, has been waiting for its time for decades, and its used pieces sell for several times the retail price. The watches are so popular that Patek recently announced they were being discontinued because they do not like the idea that one watch defines their 182-year-old brand.
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 120 m
- Movement: Automatic
Alternatives
D1 Milano Ocean
Good: This budget brand, recently emerged on the market, might position itself as a fashion watch brand, but its watches boast really good finishing, especially for the price. All D1 Milano watches have the same silhouette inspired by the Nautilus, with an integrated bracelet, vertically brushed bezel, and two polished "ears" on the sides. But they do it well, and not everyone has $90,000 to buy a Nautilus.
- Diameter: 38 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Movement: Quartz
Formex Essence
Better: The Swiss microbrand Formex has existed for several decades, but it did not gain much recognition until recently when people began discovering its Essence line. As expected, the Essence has excellent finishing for its price, as well as a vertically brushed bezel. It also hides other merits, such as a patented case suspension system, which you will not find anywhere else.
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic
Frederique Constant Highlife COSC
Best: The Swiss newcomer Frederique Constant has existed for just over 40 years but has already released several in-house movements, including a perpetual calendar with a tourbillon. This is impressive, as is their new Highlife line. Naturally, it is equipped with an integrated bracelet, as the launch of the Nautilus seems to have inspired all brands to produce integrated watches, but it also stands above its competitors by offering a chronometer-certified COSC movement that is also good.
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Automatic