About a week ago, I wrote an article on two classic Seiko divers.
For many watch enthusiasts, including most of the WatchTested team, Seiko divers hold a special place in collections. If they weren't your first mechanical watch, they were often among the first to make you fall in love with watches. After reviewing two classic models last week, it's now time to look at the modern Seiko Prospex collection. Over the last few years, there have been many changes in Seiko's popular line of dive watches. We've seen some models come and go. It's time to assess where the Japanese brand stands now and highlight a few of our favorites.
What prompted me to write this article was last year's publication on the Sumo model. When I checked the price of the current Seiko Prospex Sumo, after browsing the collection, I wondered which Prospex model would top my list of favorites now. A few years ago, the answer was simple: the classic Marinemaster was always considered Seiko's flagship diver. But today, the situation is more complex.
- Firstly, the name Marinemaster is no longer associated with just one model. Moreover, the Prospex collection is no longer limited to just dive watches. Over its existence, many models have appeared and disappeared.
- And finally, there are always several limited editions that come and go. It's enough to take a closer look at the modern Seiko Prospex collection.
Entry-Level Models: Updated Version of a Proven Seiko Diver
It's important to note that the Seiko Prospex range varies by country. A quick comparison of the Netherlands' and Germany's collections shows that the German one is significantly broader. So be sure to check the local Prospex range in your region. For this review, we used data from several European markets to give a general overview.
Let's start with the most affordable Seiko Prospex models. It's known that Prospex prices have risen over time, but we won't delve into that issue in this review. At the moment, you can purchase a Seiko Prospex from €550 - these are the solar models SNE595 and SNE597. But if you add a bit more to your budget, you can buy the updated Seiko Samurai, introduced in 2024, for €650.
The new version has a smaller case - 41.7 × 12.3 mm - retaining the characteristic angular lines associated with the Samurai. However, a smoother case profile and updated dial design with pentagonal markers make the new model more elegant compared to the larger version. Inside is the Seiko 4R35 caliber with a date at the 4:30 position, which has proven to be a reliable movement for many of Seiko's affordable models. Available choices include red SPRL11, black SRPL13, blue SRPL51, and green SRPL53 - a solid set for an entry-level Prospex.
Classics Remain Available
For those inclined to nostalgia, Seiko continues to release a special Save The Ocean version of the classic Samurai - the SRPE33 model with a larger 43.8 × 14 mm case, released five years ago in support of a charitable initiative. In some regions, the special SRPJ93 PADI Edition 2023 is also available at the same price - €660.
Speaking of larger entry-level models, we have a particular fondness for the famous Turtle. The collection currently features two special PADI versions: the SRPK01, part of the PADI 2023 divers' trio created in collaboration with the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, and the newly released limited edition PADI 60th Anniversary Limited Edition HBB002.
I had the opportunity to try the latter and immediately remembered why I love the classic Turtle. I own the SRPA21 from the original PADI 2016 series - a watch I wear less often but value for sentimental reasons. Interestingly, this model is still available in some countries (SRPE99) for €470, along with the classic black Turtle SRPE93 for €440. This makes the classic Turtles the most affordable divers in the Seiko Prospex line. If you prefer large divers, this is an excellent choice.
Speaking of large models, the Seiko Sumo is another worthy option. The black SPB101 and green SPB103 are each priced at €870 and deserve attention.
Mid-Price Segment: Maximum Choice
Before moving to the mid-level, a few observations. Firstly, models like the Slim Turtle, King Turtle, and Captain Willard are no longer in the collection, which seems strange given their historical significance and popularity. The Seiko SPB317 was a very popular model owned by one of the editors at WatchTested. This model even reached the final of the Seiko World Cup 2023, where it lost to the legendary Marinemaster.
Secondly, the current Sumo is now in the lower price segment of the Prospex collection. Seven to eight years ago, the Sumo belonged to the mid-level, being a step above the Samurai, Monster, and Turtle in quality. Now the Sumo is part of the accessible divers group priced under €1,000.
This change occurred about six years ago when in 2020, Seiko released the popular SPB143, 145, 147, and 149 models. The SPB143, in particular, became a very popular model, Seiko's main diver for several years, priced at €1,250. The updated version of this series is still on sale: the standard black SPB451 and blue SPB453, both priced at €1,400.
Additionally, the line has been supplemented with special models like the Save The Ocean SPB545 and PADI Edition SPB501 with unique dials, priced at €1,600 and €1,750 respectively. Last week, Seiko also introduced the European limited edition HBC010 priced at €1,650. This series of modern interpretations of the classic 1965 diver (62MAS) forms the heart of the current Prospex collection.
Discontinued or Not?
A little lower in price is a series that I really like but is no longer featured on the Dutch website, although it is still available in Germany, France, and Spain. At the end of 2024, Seiko released the Prospex divers SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 with octagonal bezels. This was something entirely new for Seiko and still stands out among other models. The case measures 41.3 mm in diameter and 12.5 mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug length of 48 mm.
In terms of size, it's an ideal option for me. Add the unusual shape, and I was immediately intrigued by these models. Inside is the 6R55 caliber, also used in modern interpretations of the classic 1965 diver. Priced at €1,200, this is an excellent series of modern divers, but the design is quite unusual for Seiko. I like it, and I sometimes reminisce about how much I loved it precisely for its originality.
Best GMT Divers Under €2,000?
In 2023, Seiko introduced its first mechanical GMT divers - the SPB381, SPB383, and SPB385. In my review, I detailed that these are three GMT versions based on the modern interpretation of the 1968 diver. Seiko excellently integrated the GMT function into the classic diver design. Last year, the collection was supplemented with two new models with improved features.
The main difference is the increase in water resistance from 200 to 300 meters. The case became slightly thicker, but the appearance and mechanism remained the same. The first new model is the 60th anniversary special edition SPB519, followed by the SPB534 Seashadow - a limited model for the European market. Both models are available in some countries. Currently, the green HBC001 and black HBC002 are on sale for €1,900. I like their classic Marinemaster 300 look with the added GMT function, and it's nice to see them in the brand's lineup.
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Series
Next, let's move on to the Marinemaster series, but first, a few more remarks. The main one - currently, there is no affordable version of the 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. In 2018, Seiko introduced the affordable 44-mm Baby Marinemaster, which quickly became popular among fans. Two years later, the model was updated, improving the design and making it even more attractive.
Models SPB185 and SPB187 became favorites of some editors at WatchTested. The 42 mm size and updated design made them a great choice for those looking for a modern version of the 6159 classic for €1,250. Now Seiko does not offer a similar model outside the Marinemaster series, which is a pity. Especially considering that in the mid-segment, there is a series based on the 1965 diver, it would be logical to see the 1968 Diver in the Prospex lineup.
If you want to purchase such a diver, you'll have to turn to the Marinemaster series - Seiko's premium line of professional divers. As mentioned earlier, the Marinemaster name has always been associated with one particular model that became iconic. The first Marinemaster SBDX001 won our Seiko World Cup and is considered a classic. The modern equivalent is the Marinemaster HBF001, introduced this year, as well as the colorful limited HBF002, which is also available.
Compared to its predecessors, the new models received an updated caliber and an improved bracelet with a clasp and tool-free micro-adjustment system. The bezel is now ceramic with an updated font. The price for the HBF001 is €3,800, and for the limited HBF002 - €4,100. These are Seiko's top divers today.
Marinemaster Series Based on the 1965 Diver
But the story doesn't end there. As is known, Seiko also introduced the Marinemaster series based on the 1965 diver (62MAS). The series debuted in 2023 with models SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101. For many, it was surprising to see the Marinemaster name not only on divers in the spirit of 1968 or 6159. A year later, SJE117 and SJE119 with new color schemes were added to them.
The main difference between the two Marinemaster series is not only in design but also in size. The 1968 series is larger - 42.6 mm in diameter and 14.1 mm thick. The 1965 series is smaller - 39.5 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm thick. This makes the latter more versatile for different wrist sizes and slightly more affordable at €3,400. Such a series is perfect for everyday wear in a vintage style, while larger Marinemasters are more reminiscent of professional tools for serious diving.
Final Thoughts on the Modern Seiko Prospex Dive Watch Collection
One last observation: Tuna models have almost disappeared from most markets. In some countries, you can still find the Darth Tuna IV, which Gerard reviewed in 2020. But this "beastly" model is practically the only Tuna available through official dealers. It's clear that Tuna isn't the most commercially successful product for Seiko, but it's a legendary series of professional divers, very popular among brand fans.
However, this raises questions when looking at the current Prospex lineup. One might expect Seiko to build the collection based on a stable range of models inspired by the brand's classics. Although many watches indeed draw inspiration from classics, they are not represented in all price segments. If you want a modern interpretation of 1968, your choice is Marinemaster. A more affordable option is the GMT model, which is essentially a different type of watch. Seiko used to offer a cheaper version of this classic diver.
Romance Doesn't Always Bring Success
In the entry-level segment, sometimes the romance that historical Seiko models carry is lacking. The modern Samurai is a good modern diver, and the solar models are practical, but they lack the charm of the classics. The classic Turtle is often released only in limited series, making it a niche model. Sometimes there's a lack of the classic allure of Captain Willard and their smaller siblings, like the Slim Turtle.
Although they were in the collection just a few years ago, they've now disappeared, leaving a historical gap for lovers of affordable classics. On the other hand, Seiko knows what works in the market, and it's not surprising that romance doesn't always sell. Many brands have shown that modern versions of classics create romance but don't bring big sales.
Constant Updating of the Prospex Collection
Thus, the Seiko Prospex collection is constantly changing. It is now significantly different from what it was a few years ago. This cycle repeats every few years. In such rapid changes, it's no surprise that Seiko fans sometimes wonder what's happening with modern versions of their favorite classics. Constant updates and changes make it difficult to keep track of new releases. It seems that if you blink, you might miss an important update. New models come with new prices, which sometimes makes you think about your position in the market.
In the End, Love for Seiko Is Strong
On the other hand, this opens the door for many new models that surprise, like the octagonal SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485. Finally, the modern Marinemaster has become much broader, with two series of models in various colors and corresponding prices. It's clear that the focus is on the Marinemaster, which raises the status of the Prospex line in the watch world. But we hope that Seiko will always offer great watches based on the brand's rich history for fans at any price point. This is what has made Seiko such a beloved brand among watch enthusiasts worldwide. We ourselves are big fans and look forward to what's next.
And what are our favorite modern Seiko Prospex divers? Stay tuned for our top 5 tomorrow, where we'll reveal our favorites.