Last year, I was fortunate to test the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty model in a two-tone design before its official release.
Wearing a watch that hasn't hit the market yet is no easy task, but fortunately, I live in a small village where the chance of accidental discovery is minimal. At that time, several aspects of the new Laureato Fifty impressed me: the quality of the case and bracelet finish, the elegant dial with a Clous de Paris pattern, and, of course, the new proprietary GP4800 movement. And perhaps most importantly, the wearing comfort was higher than my Royal Oak 15202.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty with Rose Gold Dial
This year, Girard-Perregaux introduced versions of the Laureato Fifty in stainless steel. My colleague prepared a review of the version with a blue enamel dial in early June, and I received the model with an 18-carat rose gold dial a few weeks ago. I spent enough time with it to understand which version I like better - the blue enamel or the gold dial. All technical specifications are the same, except, of course, for the price. The version with the gold dial costs €22,700, whereas the blue enamel one is €24,000. This is serious money, but it justifies the quality of the watch.
High Horology from La Chaux-de-Fonds
The last time I visited the Girard-Perregaux manufacture was quite a while ago - I believe in 2014. It was a true revelation. Of course, I knew their watches, mainly thanks to Baselworld and other exhibitions where they could be purchased from dealers. But when you get behind the scenes of watch production, your perspective on the brand changes. Companies like GP, Breguet, JLC, Blancpain, and Zenith become much more interesting and impressive. You can see the masters and craftsmen at work, and it becomes immediately clear that high-class watches are indeed created here.
Often, we think that such craftsmanship is only possible at Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, or Vacheron Constantin, but many other brands operate on a similar principle, simply on a smaller scale or without advertising it. This is very different from large industrial brands like Rolex and Omega. Although I love these two "industrial" brands, traditional watch workshops have a special charm that manifests in the finish and decoration of the movement. The new GP4800 caliber is a vivid example of GP's progress compared to previous automatic three-hand movements like the GP01800.
Preference for Steel over Two-Tone Design
Let's take a closer look at the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty with a 39 mm diameter (also available in a 36 mm version). When we had the version with the blue enamel dial, I was more interested in the gold model, but the blue dial also drew attention. Ultimately, I realized that I prefer the all-steel version over the two-tone model from last year.
I expected a watch that I would love aesthetically, and that's exactly what happened. But upon learning that the central links of the bracelet are gold-plated rather than made of solid gold, I cooled on this version. For me, gold-plated links are associated with brands like Tudor and Longines, but not Girard-Perregaux. It's a good solution for cost reduction, and the layer of gold was quite thick, but for a watch costing around €30,000, I expect solid gold links. In the steel version, there is no such issue. The new movement, bracelet with a new clasp, enamel and gold dials - all of this is a noticeable step forward compared to previous Laureato models we had in the office.
Laureato Fifty on the Wrist
The GP Laureato Fifty case is perfect for my 18 cm wrist: 39 mm in diameter and 46 mm lug-to-lug. The watch thickness is 9.8 mm, slightly less than the version with the blue enamel dial (10.2 mm).
Wearing comfort: "Laureato Fifty 39 mm is the golden mean," as 42 mm versions may not suit everyone. Although 42 mm would also fit my wrist, I prefer 39 mm for the perfect proportions.
Difficult Choice Between Two Versions
After seeing both versions of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty 39 mm in person, choosing was not easy. As you may know, my love for gold sometimes goes beyond reason, but I really like the version with the blue enamel dial too. Nevertheless, the rose gold dial in this model is simply magnificent. In press photos, it has a pink-salmon hue, but in person, it's less matte than I expected.
The 18-carat rose gold dial has an interesting shimmer that highlights the Clous de Paris pattern. If you love a slight shine, this dial is worth exploring. The minute scale and the "Girard-Perregaux" plaque with the logo have a brushed finish, providing excellent readability under any conditions. The hands and hour markers are made of 18-carat white gold, creating enough contrast for easy time reading.
Bracelet Design
Much of the pleasure of wearing and owning these watches is, of course, the integrated bracelet. GP managed to create a magnificent bracelet for the Laureato Fifty. It is incredibly comfortable on the wrist, and the finish is top-notch. A beautiful combination of matte surfaces with polished central links and facets. For those who value convenience, there is a simple-to-use extension system, adding another 4 mm of comfort. I also like the clasp design. Instead of a standard lock, as is often the case, Girard-Perregaux paid due attention to it and adorned it with a cut-out GP logo.
Caliber GP4800
High horology is especially evident in the magnificent GP4800 movement. The rose gold rotor is decorated and finished with great attention, as is the balance bridge. The GP01800 movement looked more industrial, while the GP4800 will particularly appeal to brand fans. Girard-Perregaux invested efforts in creating a movement that is enjoyable to view through the sapphire case back.
It is in the details that GP stands out from many other brands. They have the knowledge and skills to put "haute" (high) before "horlogerie" (watchmaking), while remaining competitively priced compared to other players in this market.
Final Impressions of Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty
Wearing the GP Laureato Fifty 39 mm with a rose gold dial brought me great pleasure, and I admitted to myself that parting with them was sad. This version is slightly cheaper than the blue enamel dial. Ultimately, buyers in this price segment are unlikely to decide based solely on the price difference - personal preferences are much more important.
My choice is the Laureato Fifty 39 mm with the rose-gold dial, reference 81008-11-3627-1CM. I highly appreciate the blue version, but the golden salmon dial makes the model a bit more special for me. Plus, it's slightly thinner!
Additional information can be found on the official Girard-Perregaux website.