Launched in 2017, the complex Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 model was followed in 2018 by a collection of more classic models, representing the sporty side of the Breguet brand. Initially introduced in titanium, pink and white gold, the Marine 5517, Chronograph 5527, and Alarme Musicale 5547 models have seen an evolution with titanium bracelets and recently, solid gold bracelets. This year, Breguet offers new variations of the Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 models: pink gold watches with slate-gray dials and titanium versions with blue dials.
HISTORY
Renowned for his technical innovations such as the tourbillon and perpetual calendar (among others) and as one of the most prolific watchmakers of his time, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also appointed the official chronometer maker of the French Royal Navy, the most prestigious title for a watchmaker. Moreover, his high-precision marine chronometers, which helped ships calculate their positions at sea, were vital for the French fleet. This maritime past led the brand to create the modern Marine Collection in 1990. Revised in 2005 with a more sporty approach, in 2017/2018 the brand introduced an entirely new Breguet Marine collection: first with the hyper-complex Marine Équation Marchante 5887, followed by the Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 models, featuring time and date, chronograph, and alarm functions respectively.
The new collection's design was bold and more modern yet respected Breguet's ethos. Although this collection represented the sporty side of the brand, it was far from being tool watches. They still featured complex guilloché dials, fluted cases, and highly decorated movements. The most striking feature of the new collection was the combination of a classic round case with bold, integrated lugs, and wave-shaped crown guards.
At the initial launch, all three classic models – 5517, 5527, and 5547 – were available in a titanium case with a sunburst gray dial, pink gold with a silvered guilloché dial, or white gold with a blue guilloché dial. In 2019, the brand added the option of a metal bracelet for the titanium models, and in 2020, solid gold (pink or white) bracelets were introduced. Now, new options are available.
NEW DIAL VARIANTS IN 2021
The first evolution concerns the titanium models. As mentioned, this lightweight material was previously only available in the Breguet Marine collection with a sunburst gray dial, creating a monochromatic, almost industrial look. Now, whether it's the time and date watch, chronograph, or Alarme Musicale, you can choose a blue dial – an option previously only available for white gold models. It should be noted that to distinguish the titanium model from its luxurious precious metal counterparts, this edition with a blue dial will feature a matte sunburst pattern instead of a wave-effect guilloché decoration. Options with a blue alligator leather strap, blue rubber strap, or titanium bracelet will again be available.
The second addition to the collection involves the 18-karat pink gold models – again for models 5517, 5527, and 5547. Until now, pink gold was paired with a silver-colored dial, hand-decorated with a wave pattern guilloché design. In 2021, the Breguet Marine collection will include a slate-gray dial on the pink gold watches; a warmer, darker gray tone enhances contrast and gives the watch an even more luxurious appearance. This slate-gray dial will be available with a brown alligator leather strap, black rubber strap, or a solid 18-karat gold bracelet.
BREGUET MARINE 5517 WITH DATE AND TIME
As a brief reminder, here are the key details of each model, starting with the 5517 version with date and time. This model is the simplest in the collection, with a three-hand display and date function. It is also the most compact version, with a diameter of 40 mm and a relatively small height of 11.50 mm. The case, available in titanium or pink gold, is water-resistant up to 100 m and is equipped with a fluted strap with a protected crown and sapphire case back.
Under the hood is the automatic caliber 777A, an in-house movement with a linear lever escapement, silicon balance spring, operating at a frequency of 4 Hz, and offering a 55-hour power reserve. This modern caliber is decorated with marine-style stripes and a rotor shaped like a ship's wheel. Prices for these new editions remain the same as the older models: 16,900 euros in a titanium case (alligator or rubber); 19,400 euros in a titanium case with a titanium bracelet; 27,900 euros in a pink gold case (alligator or rubber); 47,800 euros in a pink gold case with a gold bracelet.
Quick facts: 40 mm x 11.50 mm - titanium or pink gold, matte and polished, fluted case - water resistance 100 m - caliber 777A, in-house, automatic, frequency 4 Hz, power reserve 55 h, time and date - multiple strap or bracelet options available
BREGUET MARINE CHRONOGRAPH 5527
The second model in the Breguet Marine collection is undoubtedly the sportiest of the three, not only because of its complication but also its size. Indeed, this model is larger than the other two: its diameter is 42.3 mm, with a height of 13.85 mm. This enlarged case remains water-resistant up to 100 m and retains all the design elements of the classic model.
Inside the case is the well-known caliber 582QA, an automatic integrated chronograph movement with a flyback function, similar to the one used in the Type XXI model. This movement, also decorated in a marine theme, operates at 4 Hz and retains energy for up to 48 hours. It also features an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring. Prices remain unchanged: the titanium model (alligator or rubber) is sold for 21,000 euros and 23,500 euros with a titanium bracelet. Pink gold models will cost 33,000 euros on rubber or alligator and 54,900 euros on a gold bracelet.
Quick facts: 42.3 mm x 13.85 mm - titanium or pink gold, matte and polished, fluted case - water resistance 100 m - caliber 582QA, in-house, automatic chronograph with flyback function, frequency 4 Hz, power reserve 48 h - multiple strap or bracelet options available
BREGUET MARINE ALARME MUSICALE 5547
Finally, the Breguet Marine collection includes a somewhat more surprising but equally exciting edition with the combination of a mechanical alarm complication and a GMT function. An unusual complication, the alarm can be set 12 hours ahead to remind you of an important task, a meeting, or simply to wake you up in the morning. When the time comes, the striking mechanism is activated, and the hammer strikes the gong repeatedly for 15 seconds when fully wound. This version is also housed in a 40 mm case. However, due to the more complex mechanism, it is slightly thicker than the 3-hand version - 13.05 mm. Additionally, due to the chiming mechanism, water resistance here is 50 meters.
Under the sapphire case back is the proprietary caliber 519F/1. Developed in collaboration with Blancpain, it was first used in the Breguet Le Réveil du Tsar 5707 model and has now been updated with a new display, power reserve indicator for the alarm, lever escapement with silicon horns, and silicon balance spring. And as you can see in our video here, the alarm function produces a very distinctive sound. Prices remain unchanged, starting from 27,900 euros in a titanium case (alligator or rubber) or 30,400 euros with a titanium bracelet. Pink gold models cost 38,900 euros (alligator or rubber) and 58,800 euros (gold bracelet).
Quick facts: 40 mm x 13.05 mm - titanium or pink gold, matte and polished, fluted case - water resistance 50 m - caliber 519F/1, proprietary, mechanical alarm and GMT, frequency 4 Hz, power reserve 45 h - multiple strap or bracelet options available.