Despite dive watches being arguably the most popular segment in the watch industry, modern models are far from being fully functional diving tools.
The majority of serious divers view traditional dive watches as a backup option compared to more affordable and functional dive computers. A simple rotating bezel and easily readable hands do not provide the crucial information needed for safe planning and conducting underwater expeditions. The Bühlmann brand, associated with Watch Angels, aims to change this by introducing a multifunctional watch beast capable of accompanying a diver through all stages of diving - from adjusting decompression stops and removing helium to planning return flights. The new Bühlmann Decompression 02 may lag behind modern luxury divers in sporty elegance, but beneath its massive, multifunctional case hides one of the most advanced mechanical diving tools on the market.
Design and Case: Impressive Size and Complex Construction
There's no denying that the Bühlmann Decompression 02 is a large watch. Despite the asymmetrical top lugs with hinge attachment and a snug-fitting case back, the stainless steel case measuring 48.5mm in diameter and 17mm thick looks massive on the wrist. However, unlike a monolithic steel block, the case has a complex multi-layer structure with original design solutions and a variety of finishes. On either side of the unusual hinge lugs at the 12 o'clock position are three large screw-down bullhead-style crowns, each with its unique design.
- The central crown at 12 o'clock is responsible for standard settings and winding, adorned with a 'B' logo and features a high fluted profile.
- The crown at 1 o'clock has an aggressive 'grenade edge' style, controlling the internal rotating decompression ring and stands out with a gray case coating and radially brushed gold cap.
- The smallest crown at 11 o'clock serves as a lock for the unique two-layer unidirectional bezel.
Compared to classic diver watches, the two bezel inserts of the Decompression 02 appear extremely complex, but their independent functions significantly expand underwater work capabilities. The inner radially brushed bezel acts as a standard diver's ring, while the outer ceramic layer is intended for timing decompression stops - a key aspect for preventing the dangerous condition of 'the bends' when surfacing. The rotation of the outer ring is independent of the inner one, demonstrating a high level of finishing and attention to detail. In terms of tactile sensations, the bezels are easily distinguishable: the inner one is fixed with a classic fluted ring, while the outer one is distinguished by massive, polished gears and a smooth operation. This not only gives the watch a sense of quality on land but can also be a real lifesaver underwater.
The main part of the case is separated from the central barrel, creating a multi-layered and complex visual effect. The smooth lines of the lugs and sides of the case prevent a feeling of bulkiness on the wrist. The relief-shaped case back ensures comfort and reliable fixation, while water resistance reaches an impressive 575 meters.
Dial: Functionality and Complexity in Details
The dial of the Bühlmann Decompression 02 is as large and multi-layered as the case. The main element is the rotating decompression scale on the lower level, which conceals a complex mechanism. Based on the rescue decompression calculator Bühlmann ZH'L 16B, this scale allows instant determination of the time and depth of each decompression stop for a safe ascent without consequences. At the 6 o'clock position is a rotating scale with schedules for the 17 most common dive profiles, as well as the crucial 18th setting marked with an airplane icon. It informs how long you need to wait after a dive before flying - a critical parameter to prevent decompression sickness when transitioning from a high-pressure underwater environment to a low-pressure airplane cabin within 24 hours.
Even without deep diving, this contrasting black and white chart gives the watch a serious tool-like appearance, significantly different from simple diver dials. The main dial is in a bright turquoise color with a fine sunray grain texture, while the hour track and recessed minute scale have a soft matte surface. The outer edge of the dial is slightly beveled down towards the decompression scale. Polished rectangular applied indices add a classic touch, but the hands are another story.
The minute hand is the key element for readability underwater. It is designed as a large partially skeletonized ladder hand with a yellow danger color and a bright red arrow-shaped tip. The second hand also has a red tip for better visibility in the water. In contrast, the black hour hand seems almost invisible: short, thin, and with minimal lume, it reduces visual load and helps focus on important readings during a dive, although for everyday time reading this might be inconvenient.
Movement and Strap: Reliability and Comfort
Despite the massive and exotic appearance, the automatic Sellita SW300 movement inside the Bühlmann Decompression 02 is quite simple and time-tested. In recent years, this caliber has become a popular choice among premium independent brands due to its thin and refined construction, providing a balance between sophistication and reliability in servicing. The power reserve is 42 hours, and the frequency is 28,800 vibrations per hour, which is not groundbreaking but ensures stable operation.
To complete the look, Bühlmann has equipped the watch with a massive, modern tropic-style strap. Made from thick flexible black rubber, the strap is asymmetrical and features three rows of wide round ventilation holes. These holes also provide broad size adjustment options, enhancing comfort when wearing heavy and bulky watches. For extreme conditions, a strap extension is provided, allowing the watch to be worn over heavy wetsuits.
Conclusion: A New Level of Functionality in the Dive Watch Segment
Overall, dive watches enjoy well-deserved popularity among collectors and professionals. However, even the most water-resistant traditional models often do not provide the crucial data for safe diving. The Bühlmann Decompression 02 not only offers a comprehensive set of functions for serious divers but does so in the form of a powerful, attractive, and meticulously finished tool that goes beyond the standard diver design. The model is already available for order through Watch Angels, with a recommended retail price of $4790 as of the publication date.
This review demonstrates how modern technical solutions and thoughtful ergonomics allow the creation of a universal tool watch capable of accompanying a diver through all stages of diving, ensuring safety and comfort in extreme underwater conditions.