Three years ago, the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds model won the Challenge Watch award at GPHG 2023.
This came as a surprise to many watch enthusiasts, even more significant than Audemars Piguet's victory with the Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 model. Since then, many variations of this model have appeared, all maintaining the universal beauty and appeal of the original Raymond Weil Millesime, which astonished the world. The three new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds with tuxedo-style dials will not cause the same stir as the first model three years ago, but the Millesime has already become noticeable and recognizable.
Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds with Tuxedo-Style Dials
All three new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds variants are direct heirs of the GPHG winner. They retained the stainless steel case measuring 39.5 × 46.3 mm with neat short lugs and a thickness of 10.25 mm. Thanks to these dimensions, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist. Special attention is paid to details: the bezel is finished with vertical satin detailing, subtly contrasting with the polished beveled edge. The case houses the automatic caliber RW4251 based on the Sellita SW261-1, operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 38 hours and water resistance up to 50 meters. The main difference is the new dials.
Features of the Tuxedo-Style Dials
The new Millesime Small Seconds models feature tapered silver hour and minute hands, which provide high contrast with the dial in daylight. Additionally, the hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for easy reading in the dark. The sector dials, inspired by Art Deco aesthetics, have received a color update, giving the watches a more modern and solid appearance.
Main Color Combinations Give the Watch a Modern Look:
- A grape red dial with a light gray hour ring (ref. 2930-ST-05450) - an unusual solution for classic watches.
- Deep midnight blue with a black hour sector (ref. 2930-ST-05502) looks fresh and modern.
- The black and white variant (ref. 2930-ST-05642) is the most conservative yet the most noticeable. It can be compared not to a waiter blending into the interior, but to a confident secret agent ready for a high-stakes game.
Depth and Restraint of Design
Under the vintage domed sapphire crystal, the dials of these three models alternate light and dark zones, which structure readability and emphasize the visual complexity of the design. Upon closer inspection, various types of finishes are noticeable:
- The hour scale is smooth,
- The minute scale is concentrically grained,
- The central part of the dial is adorned with fine vertical satin finishing.
These zones intersect with structural crosshairs and a V-shaped groove - graphic elements subtly referring to the spirit of Art Deco. The opaline, recessed small seconds counter at the 6 o'clock position is decorated with a neat concave ring.
In the classic color scheme, the light central disc, minute scale, and small seconds counter stand out against the black ring with contrasting Arabic numerals. The model ref. 2930-ST-05502 demonstrates additional depth thanks to the midnight blue color of the central part and counter, framed by black lacquer and a blue minute scale. In the grape red variant, the central part and counter are painted this color, while the hour circle is light gray, creating a harmonious image.
Trying on the "Tuxedo"
All three variants come with interchangeable calf leather straps and are also available with a five-link steel bracelet. The price of the Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo model on a leather strap is €2,250 / US$2,295. The version on the bracelet costs €2,375 / US$2,425.
Which "tuxedo" to choose? The classic black and white variant or the more modern combination of blue and black? Personally, I do not wear red shades with gray accents, especially in tuxedo style, but for Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds, this color combination seems the most attractive.
Technical Specifications of the Watches
| Parameter | Description |
|---|---|
| Model | Millesime Small Seconds Tuxedo |
| References | 2930-ST-05450 / 2930-ST-05502 / 2930-ST-05642 |
| Dial | Grape red with gray ring and black Arabic numerals, midnight blue with black ring and white numerals, white with black ring and white numerals; small seconds counter matches the main dial color |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Case Size | Diameter 39.5 mm × lug-to-lug 46.3 mm × thickness 10.25 mm |
| Glass | Domed sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective coating |
| Case Back | Stainless steel with sapphire window |
| Movement | Raymond Weil RW4251 (base Sellita SW261-1): automatic with manual winding and hacking seconds, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 38 hours |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters (5 ATM) |
| Strap | Calf leather: taupe (2930-ST-05450), black (2930-ST-05502), brown (2930-ST-05642), width 20 mm, vintage stitching, steel buckle; available five-link steel bracelet |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Price | €2,250 / US$2,295 (on leather) |
The Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds with tuxedo-style dials represent an elegant blend of classic and modernity. Their thoughtful design, quality execution, and technical characteristics make these watches a worthy choice for connoisseurs of refined watchmaking art.