Crowned Ulysse Nardin Freak (X)

The Freak is not an ordinary watch. Upon its debut, it became a true revolution in watchmaking and remains a unique example of inventiveness and originality to this day.

The absence of a winding crown made them pioneers of a trend. They opened the doors for Nouvelle Horlogerie watchmakers to the global stage and continue to evolve. One of the evolutionary variants became the Freak X - a more "down-to-earth" version with a traditional winding crown. Now, the most "normal" of the Freak is presented in three variations, each receiving a new mechanism, case, and enhanced level of finishing. The new Freak (X) has part of the name in parentheses. In orthography, parentheses highlight additional information. Perhaps Ulysse Nardin wanted to emphasize the subcategory to which these watches belong, but we do not know the exact reason. The name has become more complex than the simplified Freak.

How to correctly pronounce "Ulysse Nardin Freak (X)"? The first three words are pronounced without problems, although the first two may pose challenges for non-Francophones. But what about "(X)"? Say "in parentheses X"? In conversation, it might sound strange: "Look what I just got! It's the new and updated Ulysse Nardin Freak in parentheses X!" The first reaction may not be a compliment, but rather confusion. It reminds me of the Kia Cee'd, if you know what I mean, and if you're a Top Gear fan - even more so. Nevertheless, despite the initial confusion, Freak (X) is a significant step forward in the development of the concept. It is completely redesigned and improved, meaning it's entirely new. The old name did not emphasize this, but the parentheses do.

The Amazing History of the "Crowned" Ulysse Nardin Freak (X)

There are many Freaks on the market. To help you choose the right version, we recently prepared a video showing which model best suits your needs and character. Of all the Freaks released by Ulysse Nardin since the debut of the original in 2001, the models with the "X" index in their name were created to make the no-hands watch more accessible to a wider audience. The Freak X abandoned the concept of no crown and introduced a traditional, more affordable crown for operating the watch. My favorite model in this lineup was the Freak X Razzle Dazzle 2021 with its black and white geometric camouflage dial. Now Ulysse Nardin presents a trio of "crowned" Freaks, demonstrating a significantly updated and evolved X concept.

It can be said that the Ulysse Nardin Freak (X) is a completely new watch. Look at the comparison of the old and new models in the photo below. You will notice differences in the case alloy, construction, and sizes, as well as the new mechanism.

It can be confidently stated that the new Freak (X) is an improved Freak X. Everything has become a little better. Applied indices give the dial depth, high-class finishing enhances the perception of the watch, and water resistance increased from 50 to 100 meters inspires confidence.

Three Color Variants

The new Freak (X) comes in three versions - (X Grey), (X Blue), and (X Gold). The models (X Grey) ref. 2323-500-1A/0A (€37,500 / $41,200 excluding taxes) and (X Blue) ref. 2323-500-3A/7A (€38,600 / $42,400 excluding taxes) have a case made of 80% recycled steel. The previous generation had a modular titanium case, whereas the new watches received a monobloc steel case. Yes, lightweight titanium is a more technical material than steel, but it is more difficult to create a luxurious and noble appearance that is non-allergenic. Steel is better suited for adding subtle polished details on the side of the case, which gives the watch a rich presence on the wrist, especially when combined with contrasting matte and bead-blasted surfaces.

Speaking of wrist presence, the (X Gold) ref. 2322-500-2A/1A (€58,200 / $64,000 excluding taxes) is the most expressive of the three. These rose gold watches have a mechanism bridge in tone with the case, which serves as the minute hand, as well as indices with white Super-LumiNova. The copper-gold hue contrasts strikingly with the black bead-blasted hour disc.

Different Straps and a New Bracelet

Freak (X Grey) is a more restrained model with a rhodium-plated bridge and indices against a gray bead-blasted dial. A brown leather strap with a folding clasp adds a touch of neo-industrial style. Meanwhile, the Freak (X Blue) is equipped with a steel bracelet with satin-finished surfaces and polished bevels, creating a sporty and modern look.

If a brown leather strap or bracelet does not suit you, Ulysse Nardin offers nine strap options for easy character change. The quick-release system allows you to easily switch from leather to rubber, then to another color leather strap (for example, a stylish burgundy Saffiano and gray ballistic rubber strap are available), as well as to the new bracelet with a practical 2 mm micro-adjustment on both sides of the clasp.

Inside the Freak (X) is a completely new in-house caliber UN-232. It retains the flying carousel mechanism that rotates once per hour, showing the minutes, and a pointer on the rotating disc tracks the hours. However, the mechanism has become thinner and technically more advanced than its predecessor. The reduced dimensions allowed for the case diameter to be reduced to 41 mm, and the new sapphire crystal improved the view of the mechanism. The architecture of the caliber is completely updated and executed on a modular principle, opening up opportunities for creating more diverse artistic watch dials in future versions.

The most important technical innovation was the introduction of the DIAMonSIL escapement, which first appeared in the Freak (X) series. DIAMonSIL is an ultra-hard protective coating of silicon components of the escapement, enhancing durability and efficiency. Considering that the escapement experiences hundreds of millions of impacts per year, reducing wear is crucial. The mechanism is also equipped with an enlarged silicon balance and a silicon hairspring produced by Sigatec - a silicon specialist co-founded by Ulysse Nardin.

Another novelty was the rose gold micro-rotor, integrated directly into the mechanism, helping to maintain its thinness. The UN-232 caliber consists of 216 parts, operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, and has a power reserve of 72 hours. It is based on years of Freak's development experience and includes five patents, such as the DIAMonSIL escapement, thermocompensated silicon hairspring, egg-shaped hairspring geometry, optimized axis contact, and a special assembly system for silicon components. In total, the UN-232 is based on 35 patents developed over Freak's history. As with previous Freak mechanisms, the new high-class caliber is assembled by hand by one watchmaker at the Ulysse Nardin manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Conclusion on Ulysse Nardin Freak (X)

It can be said that the Freak (X) is a mature version of its predecessor. Especially in the initial color schemes, it makes an impression of solid and respectable watches. The technical specifications confirm this. The new model is clearly better and technically more advanced than the previous Freak X. The proportions have improved: the diameter is 41 mm and the overall thickness is 13.6 mm (10.35 mm without the convex crystal), making the watch convenient for everyday wear.