There is no greater joy than wearing rare watches. Let's look at some of the most record-breaking and historically interesting hard-to-find watches.
An old economic proverb states that scarcity increases value. This is certainly true in the watch world, and brands are aware of this. Few things can boost sales like creating limited editions, especially if these are collaborations.
Personally, I am most interested in rare watches that are encountered by chance. What's the story behind them? Why can't we find such watches? Is there a mystery to be solved within them?
Throughout my adult life, I have worked in the arts and luxury sectors. Therefore, I've been fortunate to be in the same room as some extraordinary treasures. Sometimes, I even get to interact with some of them.
And considering that I have been obsessed with the art of watchmaking my entire life, nothing captivates me more than the topic of rare watches.
So let's talk about them. Let's find out how models become so rare, what some of them are, and why rarity is so attractive to collectors.
How Rare Watches Become Rare
As mentioned, the simplest way to make a watch model rare is to decide that it should be rare.
Watch manufacturers often release limited editions of popular models for anniversaries and other special occasions. Perhaps it's the 120th anniversary of a popular design. The brand might release 120 remixed or specially embossed versions of these watches.
The second way to make watches rare, which I find most interesting, is when a piece features an error or defect. Think of missing text or the use of a material that turned out not to be very good, thus deteriorating and giving the watch a strange or unique appearance.
If it's a defect that doesn't harm the watch beyond aesthetics, I usually love them.
The only exception I make is for slightly misaligned appliques. If they're significantly crooked, that's interesting. If they're slightly off, not so much. Think about how precise Rolex is with their appliques. A rare case of a slightly misaligned applique on a Rolex, in my opinion, would just make them look fake.
The third way watches become rare is if a specific model has a short production run. Many classic models that have been around for a long time tend to have short references. Perhaps it was a transitional reference, or maybe a small visual change was extremely unpopular at the time.
The fourth reason is a model might never have been sold commercially. Remember, watches used to be real tools. Governments could order a specific model solely for their defense departments.
The fifth obscure reason is that a specific model might simply be a mystery. Perhaps the brand no longer exists, and there's very little literature about it.
But for these watches to matter, they must have their audience. Maybe they are worn by an important historical figure in a painting, and they are hard to identify. Maybe the brand itself is suspiciously silent about a rare model, fueling intrigue in the watch community.
I like this reason because I love the stories and legends associated with watches.
So, let's move on to some of my favorite models.
5 Rare Watches I Love
Here are some puzzles and gems I am obsessed with.
Tissot Watches from the Movie “Rear Window” by Jimmy Stewart
I was fascinated by the simple, understandable, and classic watches worn by Jimmy Stewart in the movie “Rear Window”. For a long time, they were referred to as Stewart's priceless Tissot.
I recently solved this mystery. It is presumably the Tissot 6440-3. Imagine what I felt when I came across this information! Men on watch forums claim they “searched for them for years” or “assumed they were made specifically for the film.”
The watch plays an important role in the film, and Stewart never takes it off.
The best part is that they are not very expensive. If, of course, you can find one. Some Visodates and Seastars models have a similar look. But for me, as a watch nerd, they just don't compare.
Rolex Domino’s Pizza Watch
For your information, these are not the watches I would ever wear. And when talking about rare watches, they're not the rarest. If you search hard enough, you might find them on Chrono24 or eBay.
I just find the aesthetic of these logo dials amusing and possibly offensive. It's funny that one of Rolex's longest-lasting partnerships is with a pizza chain whose success depended on hungry, broke students.
But the story is quite interesting.
During the quartz crisis, many Swiss brands used quartz for business purposes. Instead of succumbing to this trend, Rolex simply ceded part of the territory. To do this, they went the route of corporate gifts and logo dials.
Thus, Domino's owner Tom Monaghan would gift this branded Rolex to a franchisee if they met sales targets.
Rolex Zerographe 3346
The reference 3346 should indeed be in the next section (the rarest watches in the world). Essentially, it's a prototype of the first-ever watch with a rotating bezel.
Moreover, it's the first Rolex chronograph movement equipped with a basic manual wind design on 17 jewels. Before this, they used Valjoux movements.
It's so rare that Rolex almost never mentions it in histories and literature, making it a grail for anyone.
But I love it because it looks so strange. Rolex is such a book. It's a brand that has a certain aesthetic associated with them, and this is not it. However, the “Mercedes” hands are your “North Star” to avoid confusion.
Cartier Cheich
Another piece that can be classified as a world rarity is the Cartier Cheich - presumably released in a limited edition of four pieces. This makes it even rarer than the Crash, which is also worth noting. Cartier reissued the Crash model in an edition of 67 pieces.
The watch's case is designed in the shape of the headdress worn by desert explorers.
The Cheich watch became the prize for those who could complete the Cartier Challenge - a partnership between Cartier and the Paris-Dakar rally.
In 1985, Gaston Rahier, a BMX motorcyclist, did the impossible. He rode from Paris through the Sahara desert to Senegal in three weeks - twice - on the same vehicle.
Thierry Sabine, the founder of the Paris-Dakar rally, was gifted the second Cheich. The other two models are kept in Cartier's archives and are not for sale.
Spider Dial Submariner
In the 80s, Rolex switched to glossy dials. Unfortunately, at the time, they prematurely released the new Submariners before the lacquer formula was perfected.
The result? The dials of several 5513 Submariner models began to crack, creating a texture reminiscent of a spiderweb.
Some call it a defect, while others a happy accident. Either way, it serves as a draw for many potential collectors.
4 Rarest Watches in the World
In truth, there are no single rarest watches in the world. Even mysterious one-offs are not the sole representatives of their category. Nevertheless, in addition to the aforementioned Cheich and Zerographe, here are some of the rarest watches in the world.
Rolex Split-Seconds Chronograph 4113
Only 12 pieces of the 4113 model were produced, making it truly one of the rarest watches in the world. Rolex released them as gifts for racers, and only eight have survived to this day.
With a scientific dial and thin bezel, it's certainly not your typical Rolex.
At auction, it easily surpasses a million. But I doubt any die-hard Rolex collector would sell a 4113 if they ever got their hands on one.
Vacheron Constantin Chronometer Royal 4907
The simple and comprehensible Vacheron Constantin 4907 combines several important elements of the rarity formula.
First of all, it's a mystery. No one knows how many were actually produced.
Secondly, only one model has ever appeared at auction.
But despite this, there are surely secret watch collectors who might have them. Or perhaps there are people who just don't know what they have.
Patek Philippe 1518
The steel version of the 1518 model was sold at auction for $11 million. These moon phase watches were released only for the Italian market. Thus, they were made for only four Italians.
Yes, here are more watches that are part of a quadruplet.
They also hold historical significance as they are considered the first wristwatches in history with a perpetual calendar and chronograph.
Rolex Stelline
Surely many of you didn't even know that Rolex makes watches with a moon phase.
Only two were produced, and the Stelline is one of them. Thanks to its star indices and gold case, the watch looks more like something from the archives of Patek or, dare I say, Orient.
But that's what makes it special.
There is also a diamond-encrusted Bao Dai version, named after the last Vietnamese emperor who ordered it.
FAQ
TLDR? Here's the question most frequently asked when it comes to rare watches.
What are the rarest watches in the world?
Among the rarest watches in the world are the Rolex Zerographe 3346, Cartier Cheich, Rolex 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph, and Patek Philippe 1518.
Conclusion: Just a Flex?
I believe that rare watches are not just a reason to brag. As you can see, they represent stories within the brand's history and often within the broader history of watches.
In reality, I find it amusing how often mistakes lead to the emergence of rare models. And then, in turn, that very misfortune becomes a major flex.
But again, rare watches are not always the most expensive. My Rear Window Tissot (which I eternally search for on eBay) is a great example.
And what are your favorite rare watches? Do you have any? Tell us about it in our Telegram channel!