Today I present a watch from the new Austrian watch brand Blütezeit, based in Vienna.
Before discussing the Blütezeit No. 2 model, it's important to provide context regarding such brands. We live in an interesting era for small and startup watch manufacturers. They're often called "independent brands" due to their autonomy (although large, established companies can also be called this). Many of these small brands are hotspots of significant creative and economic energy. Regardless of how complex and unpredictable the world becomes, many people worldwide attempt to realize their creative and business ideas by creating their own watch brands. Blütezeit is part of this trend, aiming to create unique watches to the exact specifications of the company's founder, Mr. Dieter Altenburger.
Features of the Market for New Watch Brands
The main challenge for new brands like Blütezeit is that society rarely allows them to set high retail prices from the start. To justify the higher cost needed for innovation and complications, brands often begin with more modest models to gain community trust. Only over time and with consistent success can most startups create the watches the founders dreamed of. In other words, the brand's first watches must be both impressive and basic.
Watch brands require time to establish relationships with suppliers, customers, and their own production processes. Although the founders have a clear vision of the final product, rarely does the first model fully satisfy it. In the case of Blütezeit, the watches immediately appear refined and harmonious. There are many directions for the brand's development. Although the price isn't low (yet doesn't seem inflated), Blütezeit watches get a lot right from the start, indicating the founder's meticulous approach and deep understanding of the watch industry.
Name and Dial Design: Nostalgia and Quality
The term "Blütezeit" roughly translates to "golden age" or "best times." This is a fitting name for an era when nostalgia is important not only in the luxury watch industry but also when most consumers seek a sense of "safety" from past eras and outdated mindsets. The watch industry successfully appeals to this, offering high-quality wearable escapism - watches like in the "good old days." The main "nostalgic" feature of the Blütezeit No. 2 series (including the No. 2.1 model) is the authentic machine-engraved guilloché dial, crafted by master Jochen Benzinger in Germany. The No. 2.1 model features a black dial with "barley" and "fish scale" patterns, but options with blue and dark red guilloché dials, crafted by the same master, are also available.
Dial Functionality and Legibility
The dial is not only beautiful but also functional. The No. 2.1 watch stands out for its high legibility, achieved primarily through traditional methods. Blue steel hands and textured patterns on the dial, characteristic of historical models, were originally created not just for beauty. These techniques reduced corrosion, increased contrast, and minimized glare. Although the No. 2 is an elegant classic watch, it reads no worse than most sports models. This result is achieved through various factors: the hour markers and hands reflect light at different angles, have the right size and proportions, and are coated with the luminescent compound SuperLumiNova. Consequently, the dial effectively uses available light, enhancing legibility without excessive distraction. This is an outstanding result for a first model and not a coincidence.
For additional legibility, Blütezeit uses sapphire crystals with nine layers of anti-reflective coating on each side - more than Rolex, and significantly more than most major brands. This approach reflects the Austrian-German interest in optics and transparency, which is rare in classic wristwatches, where legibility is usually important only in sports models. The dial has a classic layout: central hour and minute hands, along with an additional seconds sub-dial at the "6 o'clock" position. Additional seconds sub-dials visually enlarge the small dials and give the watch a more classic look compared to a central seconds hand.
Origin of Components and D|A|CH Marking
Before describing the case and mechanism, it's worth noting a detail on the dial - the "D|A|CH" marking. This is an abbreviation representing the main German-speaking regions of Europe: Germany (Deutschland), Austria (Austria), and Switzerland (Confoederatio Helvetica). According to Blütezeit, 95% of the watch components come from these regions, with the remaining 5% - the hands - from France. Thus, the brand claims "100% European" origin for its watches, exceeding the "Swiss Made" standard, which allows for a significant portion of components from other regions worldwide. Similarly, "Made in Germany" in some cases does not guarantee full German production. For more precise and nuanced positioning, Blütezeit uses the term "D|A|CH." For those unfamiliar with this designation, it may seem like a stylized word "dash."
Watch Case: Design and Ergonomics
The Blütezeit No. 2.1 case is made of polished and satin-finished stainless steel. The diameter is 37 mm, thickness is about 7 mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is approximately 46 mm. Water resistance is 30 meters. The back cover features a sapphire glass "exhibition" window. Despite the relatively small size, the cushion-style case visually makes the watch appear larger, without creating a "small" feel. The standard strap width is 20 mm, which is usually characteristic of larger models. As a result, the watch is very thin and comfortable to wear, yet doesn't look miniature.
The geometry of the case and the quality of the finish are at a high level. It's evident that Blütezeit conducted significant research to achieve the perfect balance between beauty and comfort. The goal is not to make the thinnest watch but to create a comfortable and elegant watch with a thin case. Wearing such a watch is pleasant for everyday use. Note that the strap in the photo differs from the standard one usually supplied with the No. 2. The standard strap is black alligator. Due to CITES laws, the shipment of exotic animal leather products to the USA is restricted, so the No. 2.1 model is delivered with a different, but no less quality strap.
Movement: Choice and Specifications
The choice of the movement was limited by the brand's goals, but Blütezeit found a successful solution - a relatively rare manual caliber from the Swiss company La Joux-Perret. The goal was to create a thin mechanical movement with classic architecture and only the time display function. The model is La Joux-Perret LJP7380. This hand-wound movement operates at 3 Hz and provides a long power reserve - 90 hours (almost four days). The last time WatchTested reviewed a watch with this movement was in the Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 model. This caliber is also used in Sartory-Billard watches (which use other LJP movements as well). The LJP7380 lacks a hacking function, but otherwise, it's a reliable choice for thin and elegant watches. While Blütezeit No. 2 is not a budget model, it is cheaper than other watches with this same movement.
Comparison with Ming x JN Shapiro 37.06 Lightning
To assess the positioning of Blütezeit No. 2.1, it's interesting to compare it with another novelty released a few days before completing this review - the Ming x JN Shapiro 37.06 Lightning (review on WatchTested). Despite the differences in appearance, both models were born from a similar philosophy. Both are equipped with modern mechanical hand-wound movements and have hand-engraved guilloché dials. This reflects a growing sub-genre of embellished everyday watches in a classic style for enthusiasts.
Warranty and Final Impression
To remain competitive, Blütezeit provides a five-year warranty on the No. 2 and other models. Wearing these watches is enjoyable, and the style appeals to collectors and classic lovers. Blütezeit is a Viennese brand founded by an experienced collector, launching with a high-end model that combines elegance and originality. The price of Blütezeit No. 2.1 is 5000 euros.