It's been a few years since H. Moser & Cie released a dual-time watch (the last being the Endeavour, which I still dream about), but the company has just launched a new model, the Dual-Time Heritage, which aligns more with the brand's quirky instincts than the more popular Streamliner and Pioneer models.
The new H. Moser & Cie Dual-Time Heritage model comes in a pocket watch-style steel case reminiscent of its parent collection, with a bright and vibrant burgundy fumé serving as the backdrop for the pilot's watch dial. Burgundy fumé is not new, but it is certainly not used very often - the last time I saw it was in the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD model, and I can't recall another instance before that.
The sword-style hour and minute hands (both of perfect length, by the way) are complemented by a skeletonized dark anthracite-gray second time zone hand. Thanks to the independent adjustment of the hour hand, the second time zone hand can be set to hide neatly behind the hour hand when not in use. The clarity is excellent, and I really like the large three-dimensional hour markers, entirely made from Globolight - a ceramic with luminous filling that Moser has been using in recent years. Foolishly, I didn't take a lume shot (I know, I know), but the press photo shows it well. You can notice the very tip of the second time zone hand also glows.
At the '6 o'clock' position, there's a beautifully framed large date window, which is actually synchronized with the second time zone hand and can be set backwards and forwards. Although the date window technically doesn't match the dial, it is located within the dark outer edges of the fumé dial, so it kind of works. Recently, Moser has loved using a transparent lacquered logo, which always looks very cool and is a nice intermediate solution between an in-your-face logo and the absolute austerity of a conceptual dial.
The inner workings of the case reveal the new automatic caliber HMC 809, which uses Moser's dual-time module developed on the HMC 200 movement. Fairly simple in construction, the HMC 809 is decorated with Moser's signature double-headed stripes and a skeletonized rotor made from tungsten. The HMC 809 features a bidirectional pawl winding system, operating at 21,600 vph and offering a three-day power reserve.
While the 42mm case initially seems large, especially considering the long wire lugs, it actually consists almost entirely of the dial, which makes a big difference. A smaller dial simply wouldn't match the style of a pilot watch, and the overall proportions of the case are quite acceptable. With a width of 42mm, thickness of 11.6mm, and a lug-to-lug height of just under 47mm, the Dual-Time Heritage model is quite comfortable to wear, especially considering the wire lugs curve downwards.
Moser always takes an extra step in case finishing, and there are sections with very beautiful embossed finishing on the sides of the case, as well as a large bulbous crown.
It was about time for Moser to release a travel watch, and I was pleasantly surprised by its debut this year. Of course, I consider it inevitable that we'll see a dual-time Streamliner in the near future, but I'm glad the brand chose something quirky for the mechanism's debut. I'd also venture to say that we are likely to see a dual-time Pioneer, although I'm a bit less confident about the Endeavour model (which I think is Moser's best model).
The H. Moser & Cie Dual Time Heritage model on a kudu leather strap is priced at $21,900. For more detailed information, visit h-moser.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - H. MOSER & CIE. DUAL TIME
Case: 42mm diameter x 11.60mm height - stainless steel, polished - engraved fluting on case lugs - sapphire crystal front and back
Dial: burgundy fumé with sunray pattern - H. Moser logo in transparent lacquer - applied 3D Globolight Arabic numerals - sword-shaped hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova - hollow sword-shaped dual-time hand with Super-LumiNova - date window at 6 o'clock
Movement: Manufacture caliber HMC 809 - automatic with bidirectional pawl winding - 21,600 vph - 3-day/72-hour power reserve - skeletonized rotor - hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time
Strap: hand-stitched kudu leather in gray - steel pin buckle
Reference: 8809-1200
Price: $21,900