Building a watch collection with various complications is no easy task. Here are some of my recommendations to help you get started.
We watch enthusiasts are a peculiar bunch, even if I say so myself. What suits one collector may not suit another. A quick glance at an Instagram feed dedicated to watches will show you this.
Whether you're a casual collector or focused on a single brand, you're sure to enjoy this read.
Why You Need a Collection of Watches with Complications
Simply put - you don't! But they can help solve many everyday tasks. Today, the market offers a dizzying array of watches with complications. The key is to find what suits you best.
Watches with complications are any watches that do more than just tell time. This includes even a date window.
You might need a watch for timing laps on a racetrack or the time it takes to boil an egg. You might also like a watch that shows the various phases of the moon or measures heart rate.
Many collectors agree that the appeal of watches with one or more features lies in their complexity. The more features, the more complex they are to develop. The more complex the design process, the higher the price tag. The higher the price tag, the more desirable these watches become. And so on.
Despite being part of a diverse community, we watch lovers can probably all agree on one thing. It's practically impossible to define one type of watch that will make us happy for the rest of our lives.
Complication for Everything
Some collectors love perpetual calendars, others - dive watches. Some of us crave watches that evoke a sense of complexity. If that's the case, collecting watches with complications will inevitably interest you.
Your collection doesn't have to be insanely complex. You might just need to scratch that itch with something singular. As I've said, collecting luxury watches can become an obsession. Sometimes you just need to scratch that itch.
I'll tell you what types of watches should be in your collection and recommend models for each category.
Additionally, you might already own a fairly extensive collection but haven't fully completed it yet. If you'd like my opinion, you should pay attention to brands that specialize in certain features. Generally, when looking for well-made watches with complications, you should focus on German, Swiss, or Japanese watch brands.
All three brands have good craftsmanship, especially those with a rich history (though that's not always important).
So, without further ado, here are my recommendations for choosing watches with complications that you should have and why.
Buy a Watch with a Date
Date complication watches usually spark controversy. Some collectors feel that watches without complications lack depth, while others insist it makes no sense. At best, they're semi-useful.
Choosing one watch with a date is quite a challenge. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat “White Birch” is an excellent choice. The Japanese brand calls the Hi-Beat technology a 10 Beat mechanism. It can make ten beats per second, offering the highest timekeeping accuracy.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat features a clear date aperture at the “3 o'clock” position. Its unique decorative technique is set against a dial backdrop inspired by Japan's Shizukuishi region. This technique echoes the white birch forests surrounding the Grand Seiko studio.
The 40mm steel model comes with a matching bracelet with a triple clasp. This model's timeless elegance allows you to easily track the days of the month.
Choose a Beautiful Moon Complication
Tracking the celestial body that circles our world monthly isn't a necessity. But it's certainly an intriguing complication in watches.
Today, manufacturers romantically and scientifically showcase aspects of the moon in wristwatches. Arnold & Son boasts the world's largest 3D moon phase display in the elegant Luna Magna watches.
I chose this model because it stands out from anything else on the market. While traditional moon phase watches show the indication in the “6 o'clock” window, the Luna Magna does not. Its 12mm lunar globe is placed beneath the centrally offset white lacquered solar time display, surrounded by a rich aventurine sky.
The 44mm yellow gold model features a manual-winding movement. It gives you the opportunity to interact with the watch by winding it every day.
Stay Organized with a Perpetual Calendar
A perpetual calendar of your own is a must-have to take a place among the world's best watchmakers. The first version of the pocket watch appeared in 1762, followed by the patented Patek Philippe wristwatch in 1888. Some more complex Patek Philippe watches have sky-high prices, so IWC is my choice for this category.
IWC equips these white gold watches with its in-house Calibre 52615, promising a 168-hour power reserve. I like its stylish blue dial and the combination with a black strap, not to mention the double moon display.
IWC Perpetual Calendar watches leave no detail unattended. You get a combined date and power reserve ring at the “3 o'clock” position, as well as a month aperture at “6 o'clock.”
You can also refer to the year at 7H, then to the small seconds and month at 9H. Finally, at the “12 o'clock” position, there's a moon phase indicator, as well as a day and night indicator.
A perpetual calendar might be necessary if you're a collector constantly on the move. The watch doesn't require adjusting like an annual calendar.
In fact, the only time you'll need to set them (assuming they keep running) manually is in the year 2100. And unless you possess superhuman abilities and plan to outlive us all, you shouldn't worry too much about that!
Use a Flyback Chronograph
The flyback chronograph complication allows pilots to quickly reset the chronograph while maintaining continuous timekeeping. This is useful when recording multiple time intervals.
The difference between a regular and a flyback chronograph may not be very noticeable. However, its complexity adds much more merit to the standard chronograph (another great complication to add to your collection).
In a flyback chronograph, you don't need to stop, start, and reset the time. The reset button returns the hand to zero, allowing you to start timing anew immediately.
If you have some money to spare, I would recommend the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph.
Patek Philippe watches aren't cheap, but they're definitely worth the money. The advantage of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph is that it doesn't look too sporty. You can pair these watches with casual or sophisticated attire, and they'll never look out of place.
This model features a stunning dark blue dial with bicompax counters at “12” and “6 o'clock” positions. The upper counter shows the date and local time, while the lower one shows a 60-minute scale. A nice touch is the skeletonized hand, allowing the Flyback Chronograph to indicate a second time zone.
Choose Good GMT Watches
Speaking of a second time zone, no watch handles this task quite like a GMT. Its design is highly readable, concise, and clear.
The two-tone GMT-Master II watches from Rolex are a true must-have. Everyone would love to own such a watch. If you can afford it, you should definitely add these iconic watches to your collection. These coveted watches are known for their vibrant two-tone bezels and durable, reliable appearance.
This reliable companion for global feats embodies the era of commercial air travel. Despite a wide range of models, years of production, colors, and materials, these watches are my favorite. It's the Rolex GMT-Master II Batman.
Thanks to the two-tone graduated rotating bezel, its blue-black aesthetic benefits from Rolex's patented Cerachrom material. With a watch like the Rolex GMT-Master II Batman, you can track local and reference time or local and home time.
The watch guarantees exceptional readability thanks to the ample Chromalight material applied to the dial. The 40mm Oystersteel watch also features an in-house movement and a bracelet with a folding Oysterlock clasp.
Complete Your Collection with a Beautiful Minute Repeater
Minute repeaters are the holy grail for some collectors. The complexity of their construction is often reflected in their high price. But for avid collectors, it's a small price to pay for possessing one of the finest examples of watchmaking.
The Breguet 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon is a 44mm model in 18-carat rose gold, executed in a very traditional style. It features a peripheral oscillating rotor and several silicon components, ensuring magnetic resistance.
Its design includes a series of magnets, and the gongs are mounted on the side of the dial for clearer sound reproduction. These delightful watches are a mechanical enthusiast's dream, given the complex dial design. Under the display, you can see the movement details, while the time is displayed on the offset scale at 2H.
Watches with Day-Date are Essential
Ball Roadmaster Skipper Day-Date is a great example of a watch with a date. Both apertures are located in the classic “3 o'clock” position against a transparent dial with a separated case back. In these legible watches, Ball Watch Company's micro gas tubes are used.
These tritium gas tubes create a mesmerizing glow that far exceeds standard Super-LumiNova.
The excellent readability of Ball Roadmaster Skippers Day Date combines with a compact 40mm steel case. Additionally, the bezel and bracelet are made from corrosion-resistant aluminum bronze, and the case ensures 200-meter water resistance.
No matter if it's day or night, when you wear these watches, you'll enjoy their unparalleled readability. For this reason alone, these watches had to be included in my list of top complications.
Invest in World Time Watches
It's hard to imagine better world time watches than the Bremont ALT1-WT.
The British company is elbow-deep in the luxury watch sector, especially when it comes to producing complications. For many collectors, they are an obvious choice thanks to their excellent strength and reliability combination.
While the Bremont ALT1-WT is a world-scale watch by definition, it is also a great everyday companion. The watch features a 43mm stainless steel case with 100-meter water resistance. The cities of the world on the flange are complemented by a three-component chronograph scheme.
Watches with a world time function are an impressive spectacle, allowing you to know the time in several other cities worldwide. So if you're looking for a watch for long-haul flights or business trips - get the Bremont ALT1-WT.
These are reliable, well-made, legible watches that can also be used as dress watches. They come on a black leather strap and replicate the C17 aircraft instrument panel.
Complete the Look with an Annual Calendar
Annual calendar watches may require adjustment in February, but they are a much cheaper alternative to a perpetual calendar. This complication should perfectly complement your collection.
A reminder of a special anniversary or birthday is a very convenient thing. Well, and of course, the design. Clear, readable, and concise - watches like the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar Chronograph are an excellent choice.
This model features a classic black dial with rose gold Roman numerals. A 30-minute counter is located at “12 o'clock,” while a moon phase and 12-hour totalizer are at “6 o'clock.”
At “9 o'clock,” there's a small seconds hand and a 24-hour dial. All these functions are housed in a 40mm steel case topped with anti-reflective sapphire glass.
I particularly like the smooth and unobstructed pushers of these Longines annual calendar watches. Considering the price and the reliable ETA-based mechanism, this annual calendar is undeniable.
Conclusion
Complications are a great way to add depth and variety to any collection. They make watches more interesting and give enthusiasts something to talk about. If you're going to acquire watches with complications, consider these recommendations - they're among the best.
Building a collection with every complication is fun and exciting. You'll always be confident you have the perfect watch for any scenario.
Yet, there's a vast array of options we couldn't cover in this material. Take, for instance, the tachymeter scale, pulsometer, jumping hour, or power reserve complication.
All of them add functionality to watches.
Which complication could you never do without? And which of the watches mentioned above would complete your collection? We'd love to know. Share your thoughts in our Telegram channel comments.