One of the biggest surprises in the watch industry occurred just before the Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition.
It's impressive that the watches won over all four members of the WatchTested team present at the exhibition. Usually, the release of watches sparks a lot of debate among us. However, the enthusiasm for the four different HYT T1 watches presented on the shores of Lake Geneva was unanimous. We all agreed that the new concept of a closed dial, the intriguing case shape, and the way the watches feel and function are simply impressive.
It would be too far to say that HYT is making hydro-mechanical watches for the masses with the new T1 series. But with a starting price of 48,000 Swiss Francs excluding taxes and a design that is much easier to embrace, the T1 is an important watch for the Neuchâtel-based brand. HYT appeared on the watch scene in 2012, releasing the H1 model - the first wristwatch to use fluids to indicate time. In the following years, Vincent Perriard and his team of “hydromechanical horoscopes” created a series of wild and, frankly, colossal 50mm watches. But the brand faced challenges. Perriard left the company in 2016, and in March 2021, HYT filed for bankruptcy but was soon revived. This year, Perriard returned as the Executive Chairman of the Board. The “man of the first hour” remains in his role, overseeing the brand's reboot until a new CEO is appointed.
The HYT T1 Model Marks a Brand Reboot
The HYT reboot - Vincent Perriard called it a “three-year reconstruction journey” in the New York Times - materialized in the new, four-piece strong T1 series. One might assume that the “T” in the name stands for “titanium,” as this lightweight alloy is used in all four new watches, but this is not the case. The “T” in the name stands for “tradition,” one of the innovative hydro-mechanical microengineering technologies that has experienced ups and downs. If the saying “what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger” applies, then HYT 2.0 will be more stable. Nonetheless, a watch brand is only as good as the products it brings to market. And this year, HYT is making an important step by releasing the T1 quartet. The T1 series is an entirely new design concept.
The HYT T1 series includes the Titanium Silver, Titanium Salmon, and Titanium Slate models. There is also a luxurious Deep Blue iteration in a red gold and black titanium case with DLC coating. Yes, the 45.3 × 46.3 × 17.2 mm case remains large, but as seen in the photos, the watch sits well. The T1 is truly a wristwatch, not a designer object to wear. Nevertheless, there are numerous design details that elevate the T1 above most watches.
Exploring the Octagon and Its Expansion
The primary shape of the T1 is an octagon, but two sides of the case have smooth curved lines. The dynamic appearance of the case is given by finely outlined edges and the crown between 2 and 3 o’clock, protected underneath by an elongated protective casing. The rubber strap is also striking. The way two different materials flow into each other looks powerful. Moreover, it feels sturdy, which is somewhat surprising as the straps can be easily swapped. Some quick-change strap systems can feel a bit flimsy, but that's certainly not the case with the T1.
The four of us, authors from WatchTested present at the presentation, were gifted a tray of rubber straps in various colors to test the system, and everyone was pleasantly surprised. We also found that the different strap colors completely changed the look of the watches we tried on. We were amazed at how the four dial colors matched such a wide range of strap colors. In this sense, the T1 model is a true chameleon.
As mentioned, three versions of the T1 are made of titanium, and another is made of a mix of 5N (red) gold and black DLC titanium. All four versions are water-resistant to 50 meters and come with two interchangeable straps, each with a titanium buckle. Thus, regularly changing the look of the watch becomes even easier, faster, and more appealing.
The Closed Dial of the T1 Opens Up Possibilities
Before the T1, all of HYT's creations were true exhibitionists, constantly showing off everything they had. It seemed that otherwise, no one would notice how unusual they were. The T1 model is the first introverted creation. Introverted for HYT, that is. The dial, which can be blue, silver, salmon, or slate gray, features a noticeable sunray finish in the center and a circular satin finish along the minute scale and hour ring. A small power reserve indicator is located between 2 and 3 o’clock, and a large central hand with an outline indicates the minutes.
And now on to the brand's signature feature - the liquid time indication. In the versions with blue and salmon dials, the hours are displayed with a black liquid that moves along the applied Arabic numerals, while in the other two versions, blue liquid is used. One of the most intriguing details of the watch is the capillary tube made of high-tech borosilicate glass, in which the liquid moves, emerging from the dial at the “6 o’clock” position. This adds mystery to the liquid chronometer. And since the dial is closed, the T1 is HYT's most mysterious creation to date.
The Basics of HYT T1 Hydro-Mechanical Watches
Turning over the T1 model reveals the origins of liquid timekeeping. However, to understand how the caliber 501-CM works, you need to know what you're looking at. The manually wound movement, consisting of 352 parts, operates at 4 Hz and offers a 72-hour power reserve - a unique little machine. Two small bellows, resembling engine pistons, are responsible for indicating the hours. When one bellow compresses, the other expands, causing the liquid to move around the watch dial. The movement also showcases fine sandblasted and matte surface treatments, as well as black and silver coatings.
Looking at the caliber 501-CM is like gazing at a miniature power plant. It impresses, intrigues, and stands out from others. At the same time, it's nice that you don't have to look at it constantly. Watching steel production at a plant is also impressive, but you don't want it to be a constant spectacle.
Final Thoughts on the Four HYT T1 Watches
The T1 model is more “ordinary” than all previous HYT watches, yet still special enough to stand out. It's no longer the guy in fluorescent green pants and a purple velvet jacket with a mohawk. The T1 still has a mohawk, but the rest of the outfit has been toned down without losing originality. The T1's shapes are very sharp, the liquid still catches the eye, and the 45.3 mm case diameter makes the watch noticeable. You could say they look a bit more civilized.
The well-chosen dial colors also play a significant role in making the large-sized watches attractive. The salmon dial is the most classic, the silver is the most sporty, the slate gray is the most modern, and the blue is the most luxurious when paired with the 5N gold case. Choosing a favorite among them proved incredibly difficult. Partly because the different color straps constantly changed the character and appearance of the various versions. It seems that the restrained appearance and simplicity of interaction lead to the creation of versatile and comfortable watches to wear. From a practical perspective, the relatively small length of the oversized case and the rubber strap make the watch comfortable on the wrist.
Price and Future Challenges
The T1 series is an entry-level collection from HYT 2.0. The gold version (H03208-A) costs 64,000 Swiss Francs excluding taxes, while the titanium versions Silver (H H03205-A), Slate (H03206-A), and Salmon (H03207-A) are 48,000 Swiss Francs, also excluding taxes. Yes, the T1 is an exclusive watch, but much more “accessible” than, for example, the exuberant Moon Runner Ghost, which costs 125,000 Swiss Francs before taxes, or the even wilder Conical Tourbillon Black Eklipse, priced at 335,000 Swiss Francs excluding taxes. All four T1 models are limited editions. Keep in mind that HYT produces only 200-250 watches per year.
The T1 model is the first in HYT's history that can be worn as a watch, not as a sculpture, and at a lower price. It seems like a promising proposition for the revived HYT. And you know what else is promising? A sports model will appear later this year, a chronograph in 2026, and other complications in the following year. Can you imagine starting, stopping, and resetting time segments with colored liquid? I can't, but the folks at HYT can.