While A. Lange & Söhne often plays on classic design cues, there is one subcollection that undeniably has a much more modern and technical appeal - the so-called Lumen limited edition series. This collection, born in 2010 thanks to the Zeitwerk Luminous model (not yet called Lumen at the time), has become one of the most sought-after and desirable watches in the brand's portfolio. Rare and exclusive, these models with sapphire dials are a true treat for collectors. They will be pleased to know that today a new model is being released, returning to its roots as it is based on the architectural jumping hour watches... But as you will see, this new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen has many new features, starting with an unprecedented movement that holds great power. Moreover, this is the first Lumen made not from platinum...
LUMEN SERIES
The Luminous/Lumen collection has a rather amusing backstory. Anthony de Haas, the brand's Director of Product Development, wearing an early version of the platinum Zeitwerk, found it difficult to read the time in the dark. So he and his team began exploring how to give these modern watches better night-time legibility... And once luminous digits were applied to the discs, the idea arose to showcase them (and some technical aspects of the movement) by adding a partially tinted sapphire dial, which was quite special as it allowed ultraviolet rays to charge the luminescence of the digits. Thus began the Luminous/Lumen series.
2010 – ZEITWERK LUMINOUS “LUMEN”
Not yet named Lumen (they appeared with the second watch), the first watch in the series was the Zeitwerk Luminous, based on the classic version released in 2009, a GPHG winner. These watches, ref. 140.035, were made of platinum and featured a dark sapphire dial that allowed visibility of discs with luminous indicators and partially exposed some technical details of the movement. The watch was released in a limited edition of 100 pieces. Otherwise, the watch is identical to the classic Zeitwerk model, with jumping hours on one disc on the left and jumping minutes on two discs on the right. The movement is almost identical to the classic Zeitwerk models: caliber L043.3 with manual winding, a frequency of 2.5 Hz, and a 36-hour power reserve, with a patented one-minute remontoire mechanism.
2013 – GRAND LANGE 1 LUMEN
Following the Zeitwerk, the brand introduced the second Lumen watch in 2013, based on the Grand Lange 1, to showcase the classic Lange oversized Date function in all its glory, visible not only through the aperture at “2 o'clock” but also under the partially tinted sapphire dial. The 41mm watch, reference 117.035, was released in a limited edition of 200 pieces and made of platinum. All indicators glow (hours/minutes, all hour markers, small seconds hand, power reserve, and of course, the oversized date). Inside is the manually wound caliber L095.2, with a power reserve of 72 hours and the same mechanical base as the classic Grand Lange 1 watch with a closed dial.
2016 – GRAND LANGE 1 MOON PHASE LUMEN
This model, introduced in 2016 under number 139.035, was also limited to 200 pieces, also made of platinum, and had a diameter of 41mm. It was a development of the concept presented in the 2013 release, but the star of the show was the luminous moon phase display, integrated into the off-center hours/minutes dial. As with the previous Grand Lange 1 Lumen model, all indicators, including the Oversized Date, are coated in luminous material, so some of them are visible under the partially tinted sapphire dial (mainly the date discs). The moon disc is decorated with many small luminous stars. Inside is the manually wound caliber L095.4, again with a power reserve of 72 hours and the same base as the classic Grand Lange Moon Phase model (without luminescence).
2018 – DATOGRAPH LUMEN UP/DOWN
Following the three previous watches, Lange released a new limited series Lumen in 2018, limited to 200 pieces, again made of platinum, but this time based on its most famous chronograph watches, the Datograph. The idea of this model 405.034, again using a partially tinted sapphire dial, was to highlight the two major complications of this model, partially revealing the mechanics behind the oversized date, and making the chronograph function highly visible in the dark, as the subdials and tachometer ring are covered in luminous material. The sapphire dial also allows seeing the top side of the movement. Finally, the power reserve up/down function is also highlighted with luminous material. The platinum case still has a diameter of 41mm, and the movement remains the same as in the updated Datograph version, with a 60-hour power reserve. The hands and some hour markers are also luminous.
NEW ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD LUMEN WATCHES
At first glance, it may seem that the new Zeitwerk Lumen is almost the same as the 2010 model, just in a different material... You wouldn't be wrong if you look at the watch and its technical specifications. They have the same iconic display, inspired by the five-minute clock at the Semper Opera in Dresden, the same T-shaped time bridge, and exactly the same case dimensions as all classic (in the sense of time-only) Zeitwerk models, luminous or not. But in reality, this new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is a completely new watch, with different proportions, an updated dial with a different construction, and a new movement with much more power than before... And also an unprecedented material for the Lumen series. So, all in all, there's quite a bit to explain.
First, the case. Yes, the diameter is still 41.9mm and the height is 12.6mm, as in previous Zeitwerk releases. But thanks to the new movement and the updated display - more on that later - the case has different proportions. First, the bezel is now slightly thinner than before, making the watch visually less bulky. And since A. Lange & Söhne adheres to ancient rules of proportion, the lugs have also been changed and are more elegant. Of course, these are minor changes, but they might lend the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen a bit more elegance than before.
One of the main novelties of this edition is the material from which the case is made. Previous Luminous/Lumen editions were always made of platinum, but this new model is housed in a case made of the brand's signature Honeygold, a special 18-carat alloy with “various admixtures and special thermal treatment” giving the gold greater hardness and a very fine color. This rare and hard-to-work alloy is used for the first time in the Lumen series, but not in the Zeitwerk collection, as it was previously in the 2017 Zeitwerk Decimal Strike model. The case maintains the same finish: polished bezel and lugs, as well as straight matte sides. The watch is worn on a brown alligator leather strap to give a final warm tone, which was absent in previous Lumen models, made in a black-gray technical style... In this respect, the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen seems quite surprising.
An important new element of these new Lumen watches is the presence of a button on the side of the case, which was absent in previous time-only Zeitwerk watches. This is where the influence of the Zeitwerk Date model is most evident, as the movement of this new version is indeed based on the date model introduced in 2019. It allows the hour display to be switched separately, which in turn simplifies setting the time. The minutes, of course, are still adjusted by the crown. As in the Zeitwerk Date model, the switching impulse is generated when the button is released. “The advantage is that the switching always takes place evenly, regardless of how softly or energetically the button is actuated”, explains A. Lange & Söhne. According to Anthony de Haas, this system is also more compact than a classic button (think of a chronograph-like button), which allowed maintaining the previous dimensions.
Now about the dial... Being part of the Luminous series, these Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen watches are naturally equipped with a partially tinted sapphire dial. New for these watches is that it is no longer glued but installed in place between two ring gaskets, which facilitate assembly and provide greater impact resistance. The sapphire dial is equipped with a light-permeable coating that allows the luminous digits, not visible in the aperture (those usually hidden under the dial), to absorb a sufficient amount of ultraviolet light, glowing in the dark. Thus, not only the numbers visible in the apertures glow, but also the hidden numbers, which are slightly visible under the sapphire dial...
The display still consists of a time bridge with two large apertures, revealing one disc for the hours and a combination of two discs for the minutes. The redesigned bridge for this occasion places a larger sub-seconds dial, now made of German silver with black rhodium plating (instead of black coating), giving it a lighter and warmer tone. The power reserve indicator remains located at the “12 o'clock” position, and both hands on the dial are made of 18-carat Honeygold.
Returning to the mechanics, the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen watches have retained the stunning display that has made this series distinctive, namely the complex combination of three instantaneously jumping discs displaying the time in digital format, with all digits having the same size. They switch accurately and are read from left to right. Behind this mechanism is a complex constant-force device. After all, it takes an impressive amount of energy to release such large discs. Moreover, this one-minute remontoire (which thus drives the unit minutes disc) ensures that the balance is always driven with constant force, enhancing the accuracy of these watches. In short, this minute spring, which loads and unloads to drive the jump of the discs, also contributes to enhancing the accuracy of the watch...
But this is not new... What is new is the caliber L043.9, a movement based on the architecture of the caliber installed in the Zeitwerk Date model. But it is more than just a minor transformation, as the date complication was not a module that could be removed, meaning that in the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the entire top part of the movement had to be rethought. But it also means that the new engine benefited from an architecture with two barrels stacked on top of each other. Combined with a lighter balance wheel and, accordingly, a lighter remontoire, this allows doubling the power reserve: from 36 hours in the past to 72 hours now. It can also be confidently stated that this upgraded movement will sooner or later be found in a regular Zeitwerk model case.
The increased power reserve, combined with the new hour correction button, makes the caliber L043.9 quite an impressive improvement over the previous generation. Consisting of 462 components, the movement operates at a rate of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz). When looking at the watch through the sapphire case back, the design and finish once again look extremely attractive, and the elegant bridge on the top of the remontoire is the main attraction. Other details are no less impressive: the balance and escape wheel cocks are hand-engraved, the winding wheels are solarized, and the filigree-finished constant-force escapement bridge houses two recessed, screw-mounted gold chatons. All parts are decorated, both visible and not.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen (ref. 142.055) is released in a limited edition of 200 pieces and is available exclusively at ALS boutiques. Its price is 114,000 euros.
More information can be found on the website www.alange-soehne.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – A. LANGE & SÖHNE ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD LUMEN
Case: diameter 41.9mm x height 12.6mm – case in 18-carat Honeygold, polished and matte (updated design, with thinner bezel and lugs) – sapphire crystals front and back – new button for quick hour indication adjustment
Dial: sapphire glass with coating, now placed between two ring gaskets – time bridge in German silver, coated with black rhodium, hands in Honeygold
Movement: Lange caliber L043.9 – manual winding – 61 jewels – 462 components – 33.6mm x 9.2mm – 72-hour power reserve on two vertically aligned barrels – 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour, cam balance, lever escapement with in-house spring, minute remontoire for constant force and minute jumping – hours and minutes with jumping digits, small seconds hand with stop-seconds, power reserve indicator
Strap: hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap, Honeygold prong buckle
Reference: 142.055
Availability: Limited to 200 pieces
Price: 114,000 EUROS (including German taxes)