Sports watches with integrated bracelets are currently the hottest, most desired, and most commercially successful category of watches. It's no surprise that dozens of brands, from affordable luxury companies to small independent manufacturers, have entered this genre. We can't blame them, as they're simply responding to the demand for such watches. And since the idea seems to work most of the time, there will be even more newcomers. The latest to join is one we clearly didn't expect... A brand from Dresden specializing in refined and classic watches. Here is the new Lang & Heyne Hektor model.
When you think of Lang & Heyne, you might envision exactly these types of watches. Classic, refined, somewhat old-school, typically German watches of rare execution, with ultra-decorated, handcrafted mechanisms assembled in a typically Saxon manner. Located in Dresden and founded by Marco Lang (who later left the company to create his own brand) and Mirko Heyne, Lang & Heyne is part of a group called Tempus Arte, which also owns the company Stowa and, importantly for this article, a movement manufacturer called Uhren-Werke-Dresden (UWD), located under the same roof as L&H. Knowing the type of watches that have been released under the Lang & Heyne brand so far, to say that the new Hektor model is a surprise would be an understatement. This is a completely new direction for the brand.
HEKTOR LANG & HEYNE
As seen in the images provided by the brand, the new Lang & Heyne Hektor is clearly different from what we are used to seeing from the Dresden manufacture. Not only do the design and style differ, but so does the overall spirit. If previous creations were classics with a pronounced touch of Haute Horlogerie, including mechanisms crafted in a very individual style, the new watch ventures into more sporty territories with more accessible technical specifications - both in terms of price and technical aspects.
While not fully embracing the classic elements of luxury sports watches from the 1970s, like the RO or Nautilus (Hektor is not as thin, sharp, or sporty), they nonetheless have some elements that make them steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet. The case, made of stainless steel, has a slightly elongated shape with lug modules integrated into the rest of the case - meaning there's no classic leather strap here - and combines matte and polished surfaces. It features an intriguing semi-protected crown, recessed into what could be considered a crown guard module. Overall, the design is sleek and smooth, not as angular as other representatives of this category. Sapphire crystals are present at the front and back, and the water resistance is 50 meters.
As for the bracelet, you will find a 5-link profile that follows the curvature of the cases and combines matte and polished surfaces. A new feature for the brand, this bracelet closes with a folding butterfly clasp and is attached to the case using screws.
The dial is perhaps the most surprising element of the watch. Although it appears sportier than previous models, the Lang & Heyne Hektor has retained some elements seen in past watches, such as the classically shaped hands. The dial is a solid texture; in the center is a repeating "whisk" pattern. On the hour chapter ring with concentric grooves, there are metal applied markers of the same shape. All display elements are coated with Super-Luminova, and the second hand is painted in gold. But the boldest element is the metal piece between "6 o'clock" and the central hand axis, revealing part of the mechanism beneath it.
Lang & Heyne Hektor will be available in three different colors: dark blue, medium grey, and dark green. I know that on WatchTested we don't usually consider personal judgments when it comes to design - we all have different perceptions of shapes/colors - but here I am quite skeptical about the odd combination of elements. The mix of traditional details - hands, hole in the dial, overall soft design - with more sporty elements - steel bracelet, crown - will surely appeal to not everyone. I know these are just press images, and we'll get a better sense if we see the watch in metal, but for now, I'll reserve my judgment. P.S. You can share your first impressions in the comments section at the end of this article.
CALIBER UWD 33.2
The movement of the Lang & Heyne Hektor watch also significantly differs from the beautiful handcrafted calibers we've seen from this brand in the past. However, this does not mean that it 1. is not very attractive 2. is no longer produced in-house. In fact, this movement may seem familiar to you. It is produced by the Uhren-Werke-Dresden or UWD, a subsidiary of Lang & Heyne, and was once used by Sinn in higher-end watches (albeit with a different layout).
Calibre UWD 33.2 is a hand-wound movement (again, a choice some might question, as an automatic would be more logical), characterized by overall lightness and airiness, as well as a modern, sharp design. Large, with a diameter of 33 mm, it consists of numerous small triangular bridges holding the gear wheels in place. The architecture is extremely pleasing, and, in typical Lang & Heyne tradition, the finishing (though not quite at the level of previous creations) is executed to high standards. It includes matte surfaces, straight brushes on the main plate and small bridges, polished bevels, polished countersinks. And the pointed details really make this movement unique.
The movement in the Lang & Heyne Hektor watch - here a central seconds caliber - is also technically advanced and relatively thin (4.4 mm). It is equipped with an in-house developed eccentric balance, precise regulation, and a "flying" barrel. Additionally, all frame parts and driving wheels are made of Arcap - a non-magnetic material with a special shine when polished. This movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz and, when fully wound, maintains a power reserve of up to 48 hours.
COST
The Lang & Heyne Hektor model, regardless of dial color, will cost 16,900 euros (including German taxes). Their quantity is limited to 33 pieces of each color (a total of 99 pieces). More detailed information can be found on the website www.lang-und-heyne.de.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - LANG & HEYNE HEKTOR
Case: diameter 40 mm x height 10.95 mm - stainless steel case, polished with matte accents - sapphire crystals front and back - water resistance 50 meters
Dial: solid silver dial in blue, grey, or green - stepped profile with a shiny bevel, "whisk" pattern in the center, concentric pattern on the hour section ring - applied indexes and silver-colored hands with Super-LumiNova luminous coating - gold second hand
Movement: caliber UWD 33.2 (Uhren-Werke-Dresden, a sister company of Lang & Heyne) - hand-wound - 19 jewels - 33 mm x 4.4 mm - 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour - 48h power reserve - shock-resistant eccentric balance, flat hairspring, precise regulation - hours, minutes, seconds (hacking)
Bracelet: 5-link bracelet made of polished and matte stainless steel, folding butterfly clasp
Availability: total of 99 pieces, 33 pieces of each color
Price: 16,900 euros (including German taxes)