For many years, IWC has been developing the idea that classic German flieger watches can be as much a lifestyle product as a tool watch. The idea is that the traditional aesthetic of aviator watches can serve as a beautiful piece of men's jewelry, in addition to being a sports watch. This concept is hardly new, even at IWC, but recently I have seen the brand 'dress up' the pilot watch in such a way that makes it clear IWC wants its pilot watch style to be iconic and a status symbol. An interesting question is: 'A symbol of what status?'
From a practical perspective, attempting to turn a pilot's watch into a design icon means that IWC has segmented part of its collection in a more fashion-forward direction, while other watches still very much resemble tools in their positioning and pricing. This gives IWC Pilot's and Big Pilot's watches an appeal to different categories of buyers, but it also means that it becomes challenging for IWC to speak to multiple audiences at once. Partly, this is because the messages that will appeal to a status-seeker are different from those that appeal to a devoted watch enthusiast. Assuming IWC has status-seekers in mind, who are looking for a 'design icon' in men's jewelry watches.
A significant part of why I took this particular direction in the review is that the retail price of the 2021 IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is nearly $10,000 USD, which is about $2,000 USD higher than the recent (and also new for 2021) IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Both models have in-house movements, similar steel cases and bracelets, as well as high-quality dials. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is indeed 2mm larger, but this does not significantly affect production costs, and its three-hand, no-date movement is arguably simpler than an automatic chronograph. Therefore, while I fully respect IWC's pricing strategy, I cannot immediately explain the cost of the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 aside from it being related to IWC's plans on how it wants to strategically position this product in the market.
As such, it sees the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph as more enthusiast-oriented for watch lovers, and I think the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 should capture the same look and feel but for a broader luxury audience. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is priced between IWC’s more entry-level luxury pilot watches and the more expensive forms of the Big Pilot’s Watch, alongside limited edition models such as the IWC Tribute to 3705 watch.
With this in mind, I will simply discuss the areas where IWC offers good value for money and where they might want to improve the value proposition in this price range in the future. Overall, however, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is a beautiful and simple execution of classic flieger watches for men who want something both fashionable and masculine on their wrist. When I look at these watches, I recall a conversation with IWC CEO Chris Grainger, who said that pilot watches are watches for daring and tough guys. I'm sure more than enough people identify with this characteristic - and when the watch is presented with something classic and purposeful (such as this design), it will become a great companion on the wrist, doing a bit more than just offering '$9,000'.
At the same time, the price plays a significant role in the perception of jewelry watches... and in some sense, a higher price is good. This is because people generally want to feel significant on their wrist. IWC has obviously figured out that it does particularly well in the approximately $9,000 segment of sports watches, and therefore pieces like this blue dial (IW329304) can suit someone's needs quite nicely.
These 43mm wide watches are the smallest of the Big Pilot’s watches, which can reach up to 48mm in width. At the time, I nicknamed it the 'Little Big Pilot'. IWC likely has a new customer base in mind, who are moving up to 43mm from, perhaps, 38-40mm, being their main size preference for watches. The whole experience of wearing Big Pilot parts over the years has been owning the 'oversized' look. For some, this is 48mm wide, and for others, it's 43mm wide. On my wrist, I certainly don't consider 43mm wide 'big', but they are bold in their proportions, and I find this size very comfortable.
The thickness of the steel case is 13.6mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is about 52mm. The case is water-resistant to 100 meters and has a domed sapphire crystal with AR coating over the dial. Another sapphire crystal is located on the back of the watch as an exhibition window, revealing the in-house movement, made by IWC in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. The most characteristic design feature of the 'Big Pilot' on the case is, of course, the classic 'onion' style crown. The crown also turns out to be very comfortable to grip and operate - such designs were originally used as winding crowns that the pilot could manage while wearing gloves.
IWC claims that the watch glass is also protected from popping out during sudden changes in air pressure, which is a real issue in some limited aviation scenarios. So, I hope at least some Big Pilot’s Watch 43 users will take them into the sky in an unpressurized aircraft cabin! Otherwise, the steel case is clean lines and a pleasant finish, mostly matte surfaces with some subtle angles (and a sloped bezel) executed in a polished line.
The steel bracelet has contrasting matte and polished links and includes IWC's excellent EasX-CHANGE strap changing system. It uses a traditional spring bar, allowing the use of a wide range of third-party straps (albeit in an odd size of 21mm), but at the same time, it allows the bracelet to be removed without any tools. The bracelet itself is also equipped with a quick size adjustment system (removing and adding links). Finally, the bracelet includes an advanced IWC micro-adjustment system within the button-deployant clasp, which can increase or decrease the bracelet length by a few millimeters on demand. The weight of the bracelet feels good and wears pleasantly on the wrist. Many people will choose to pair these watches with a traditional pilot-style leather strap, but the bracelet really gives the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 that status symbol look I feel IWC was going for.
The dial of the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is extremely simple, which on some days will be exactly what you want to wear, and on other days you might want a watch with a more visually extravagant dial. To give it the most fashionable look, IWC has completely stripped the pilot watch look to its core essence. It's beautiful and effortlessly readable, but as I've mentioned, simple. The wide dial of this model has a metallic blue color, finished in a 'sunburst' style, with thick Arabic numeral hour markers and a complete scale of minute markers. Perfectly sized pilot watch hands complete this conservative sports watch look. I can't see too many people who wouldn't be happy to wear it, at least from time to time.
Inside the watch is the IWC-manufactured caliber 82100 automatic movement. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz with a power reserve of 60 hours and is equipped with the efficient IWC Pellaton automatic winding system. The most interesting technical feature of the watch is some parts made not out of metal but ceramic. You can visually identify these ceramic parts because they are painted black and visible in the mechanism. Ceramic parts have many advantages over metal ones when it comes to durability (they really don't wear out), and they require less lubrication, if any. These special ceramic parts truly add value and are part of IWC's explanation of why this caliber is one of its more elite standard movements.
The caliber 82100 movement is also particularly pleasant to look at. In addition to various types of finishing, such as perlage, the bridges and components of the movement are designed with skeletonization in mind. This allows the viewer to obtain a deep and less obstructed visual experience of what is happening in the mechanism. The 82100 is one of the most beautiful modern, simple three-hand automatic movements around, in my opinion.
The 2021 IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 debuts in two colors, with dial options either depicted in blue or black. The black (IW329301) comes with a brown pilot-style tapered leather strap, which is the same retail price as the blue dial with a blue leather strap (IW329303) at $8,400 USD. The pictured IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 (IW329304) has a blue dial and comes with a matching steel bracelet at a retail price of $9,350 USD. Learn more or order on the IWC website.
Essential Data
>Brand: IWC
>Model: Big Pilot’s Watch 43 (reference IW329304, as tested)
>Price: $9,350 USD
>Dimensions: 43mm wide, 13.6mm thick, and ~52mm lug-to-lug.
>When the wearer would personally wear it: As fashionable and slightly bold social watches that are essentially tool watches at heart.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: A luxury enthusiast looking to acquire conservative yet expressive iconic men's watches from a manufacturer with genuine history.
>Best characteristic of the watch: Beautiful and simple, wears comfortably, and has a very versatile style. The movement looks excellent and has some high-tech parts. The strap changing system - along with the available straps and bracelet - is of matching quality.
>Worst characteristic of the watch: Traditional pilot watch lovers may not immediately embrace the flashy polished surface treatment. The dial design is effective, but in this price range, it could use a bit more spice. Not as competitively priced as some other IWC sports-style watches.