Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon Review

Creating a chronometer with a striking mechanism is a complex task for any watchmaking manufacture.

However, with the new Carillon Tourbillon model, Parmigiani Fleurier has raised the bar to a new level. These repeater watches are equipped with four gongs and four hammers, a 60-second tourbillon, and a power reserve indicator. All 456 components of the mechanism are crafted with the utmost skill. Special attention is deserved by the hand-engraved dial, the white gold case with guilloche, and an overall design harmoniously integrated into the brand's 30th-anniversary celebrations. Despite the seemingly restrained appearance, these watches hide numerous complex technical solutions - a preferred approach by Parmigiani: complex complications presented in a simple and aesthetically pleasing form.

The Founder’s Story and Inspiration for the Carillon Tourbillon

To fully understand and appreciate this limited series of five pieces, it's important to know the path of the company's founder, Michel Parmigiani. A watchmaker by profession, he began his career, like many independent craftsmen, with the restoration of antique watches. Working with antique and often complex pocket watches without instructions required problem-solving skills as issues arose, allowing for a deeper understanding of the structure and principles of old mechanisms. It was based on one of these watches, which passed through his workshop at the start of his career, that the Carillon Tourbillon model was created. This pocket chronometer became part of one of the world's most historically significant collections - the Sandoz collection.

The pocket watch that inspired the new model was made in the early 19th century by Perrin Fréres' workshop and featured characteristic snake-like gongs for the repeater. Such excessively decorative details were typical of that time, and Michel Parmigiani had encountered similar mechanisms before. However, the brand did not aim for an exact reproduction but merely drew inspiration from the historical sample. This highlights Parmigiani's artistic approach in the modern era: the company has created a strong visual style with minimalist aesthetics, allowing them to organically integrate external elements without losing identity and respect for the original.

Design and Dial: Mastery of Hand-Engraving and Color Choices

Let's begin the acquaintance with the watch with its dial, crafted by hand using the engraving technique. This work is done as part of the brand’s anniversary collection and features a characteristic wave-like relief. Many more affordable brands try to imitate this effect through stamping, but the richness and depth of texture are achieved only through meticulous manual labor. After applying the relief, the dial is painted in a pastel blue color - a shade that becomes a kind of signature of Parmigiani and here harmoniously combines with the white gold case.

Speaking of minimalism, it is worth noting that the dial lacks any divisions or inscriptions, except for the brand's logo. Even the tourbillon is not visible from the front side, emphasizing the restraint and simplicity of the design. Instead, attention is drawn to the texture of the dial, the logo, and the snake-like gongs with hammers. In the Carillon model, there are four of them, which is rare for a watch with a diameter of 41.6 mm and indicates the high technical saturation of the case.

Mechanism and Innovative Finishing Technologies

The gongs, repeating the form and style of the original pocket watches, also serve as a visual metaphor for the sound they produce. This concept is reflected in the finishing of the mechanism, visible through the transparent case back. The bridges of the mechanism are decorated with a unique mezzo vibrato technique - hand processing that creates a wave-like, stepped pattern reminiscent of sound waves.

The mechanism consists of 456 components. The hammers and gongs are visible from the front, while the rest of the repeater mechanism, tourbillon, and power reserve indicator are located on the reverse side. Special attention deserves the power reserve - at least 10 days, achieved thanks to two barrels placed one above the other. One is responsible for the movement of the watch, the other - for the operation of the repeater, which is activated only when needed.

In addition to mezzo vibrato, the mechanism is decorated with traditional decorative techniques: black lacquer polishing, bevels, and graining. Numerous levers, springs, and a regulator with a flywheel create a mesmerizing scene, making it hard to look away. The four gongs are tuned to different notes: a low tone for the hours, a high one for the minutes, and two unique notes for the quarters. The presence of four gongs and their corresponding sounds significantly enriches the perception of the chime, comparable to the Westminster chime.

Limited Production and Uniqueness of the Model

Only five pieces of the Carillon Tourbillon will be released. The production is entirely carried out by hand at the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture, explaining such a limited edition. Creating such a mechanism requires the highest level of skill and knowledge, possessed by only a few specialists in the world.

Although 30 years is a relatively short period for the watch industry, where brands with centuries-old history exist, for an independent brand, it is a significant milestone. Parmigiani Fleurier remains one of the most sought-after and respected companies on the market. These watches serve as a worthy celebration of the anniversary, linking the brand’s modernity with the founder’s origins and experience in restoration.

Technical Specifications and Availability of Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon