An unusual tandem of wrist and desk watches - a combo of the style of the updated Louis Vuitton Tambour collection and the iconic De Bethune DB25 GMT Starry Varius watches.
Two years ago, Louis Vuitton launched a project that planned 5 collaborations with independent watchmakers. Over these 2 years, we have seen the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, created in collaboration with Rexhep Rexhepi, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 model in partnership with Kari Voutilainen. In the third year of the project, Louis Vuitton presented 2 models in collaboration with Denis Flageollet and the De Bethune brand.
One of them is a modern interpretation of Sympathique clocks like those created by T.H.A for Breguet in 1991. The second is a unique version of the iconic De Bethune DB25 GMT Starry Varius watches.
Let's start with the wristwatch, which will be presented in 10 examples. The case is taken from the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko, and the mechanism and dial are borrowed from the DB25 GMT Starry Varius model. Although the case dimensions are substantial at 45 x 14.05 mm, it looks compact on the wrist.
It was manufactured within La Fabrique du Temps from titanium, which was polished and sandblasted. Specifically, polishing and laser sandblasting can be seen on the platinum lugs. At the final stage, the case underwent heat treatment in the style of De Bethune. As a result, you get that deep blue color for which Denis Flageollet's creations are famous. The crown with the signature Louis Vuitton floral monogram is also made of platinum with a combination of polishing and sandblasting.
The dial of the model combines the sporty style of the Tambour collection with classic De Bethune features. The center of the composition is occupied by a blued titanium plate with a Milky Way laid out in gold pins. The stars on this sky map align into the Louis Vuitton logo. The picture is completed by a spherical day and night indicator, which makes it easier to read the time of the second time zone. It is a miniature moon, half of which is made of 5N rose gold (day) and the other half of blued steel (night).
The design of the hour scale reflects the style of the updated Louis Vuitton Tambour collection, which was introduced back in 2023. Time is displayed with blue numerals using polished blued hands. Slightly closer to the center of the dial is a date scale, equipped with its own indicator in the form of an additional blued hand.
Under the sapphire case back, the De Bethune DB2507LV caliber is visible - a reinterpretation of the mechanism used in the DB25 GMT Starry Varius model. This is a manual winding mechanism with a signature V-shaped bridge, which, thanks to a double barrel, provides a 5-day power reserve.
The operation of the mechanism is regulated by a blued titanium balance wheel, equipped with white gold inserts and a flat terminal curve spring. Important characteristics also include a silicon escape wheel and a patented De Bethune triple shock absorption system.
The watch comes with two interchangeable straps: one made of blue fabric with black leather lining, and the other of very soft cognac-colored alligator leather with alligator leather lining. Both straps are fastened with a polished and blued titanium buckle. The watch is delivered in a titanium case, but a leather travel pouch is included.
The estimated cost of the model is €375,000 excluding taxes.
LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius
The second part of the new Louis Vuitton collaboration is the Sympathique clocks. For those unfamiliar with this term, let us explain. It refers to a device invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet for the automatic synchronization of portable pocket watches with more precise desk clocks.
In the early 1990s, Denis Flageollet played a key role in creating a modern interpretation of this unusual watch tandem. Together with partners from Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), Vianney Halter and François-Paul Journe, he transformed the original pocket watch into a wristwatch with a tourbillon and a constant force remontoire, while simultaneously introducing a number of technical improvements, without compromising the spirit of the historical original.
More than 30 years have passed since then, and here's what we have today. The LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clock is based on a hand-wound mechanism, manufactured by De Bethune exclusively for this project. The mechanism, operating at a frequency of 18,000 vph, is assembled from 763 parts and equipped with 2 mainspring barrels, which provide an 11-day power reserve. As in the early 1990s, one of the important features of the clock is the constant force device.
When placed in the stand, the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatch is powered by the winding crown. For 10 hours, the system automatically winds the watch, and every two hours, a special mechanism located on the back of the case resets the readings to match the main clock, bringing them into synchronization.
The wristwatch can be placed in the desk clock stand without removing the bracelet and any preparatory actions. If the wristwatch is constantly connected to the desk clock, its regular winding is done overnight.
The desk clock in this tandem is styled as a marine chronometer and mounted on a titanium base with blued meteorite inlays. The clock dimensions are 310 x 266 x 260 mm. The decor is made by Belgian illustrator François Schuiten, and the engraving by Michel Rothen. The dial is made of blued titanium, with triangular hands showing the time.
Only 2 sets of Sympathique clocks, including the wrist model, will be released. They will be supplied in a titanium chest.
The estimated cost of such a tandem is €4,000,000 excluding taxes.