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Louis Vuitton for the Mature Hippie, Anton Suhanov's 'Flaming' Balance

6 min read 1,543 views 14
Anton Suhanov Chronoswiss Egerio Jacob & Co Jaquet Droz Louis Vuitton M.A.D. Rexhep Rexhepi Tissot URWERK Universal Genève

Key Takeaways

  • Louis Vuitton's latest watch features vibrant design elements promoting peace.
  • Jacob & Co. continues its 'The Godfather' saga with a new musical watch.
  • Urwerk introduces a diamond-encrusted edition harking back to its origins.

Also featuring Jacob & Co. with two melodies for 'The Godfather' fans, Urwerk with diamonds, and the grand return of Universal Genève.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Arty Automata

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Arty Automata watch with colorful enamel dial

Perhaps the most vibrant and expensive novelty of the week. The dial, covered in multi-colored enamel, features 7 moving elements, all conveying the message of 'make love, not war'. You can watch the automaton dance by pressing a button at the '8 o'clock' mark. Completing the picture is a flying tourbillon with a carriage stylized as a peace symbol and a red calfskin strap. Read more about this model in the review.

Jacob & Co. The Godfather II

Jacob & Co. The Godfather II watch with musical elements

This novelty continues the popular Jacob & Co. saga dedicated to 'The Godfather'. The watch revolves around a music box that plays two melodies composed by Nino Rota for the film: a love theme and a waltz. At the heart of the music box is a comb and a brass cylinder with pins. You can switch between the melodies using a button at the '10 o'clock' mark. The release is limited to 74 pieces. Read more about the watch in the review.

Jaquet Droz Joyful Birds - Great Wall

Jaquet Droz Joyful Birds watch with Great Wall miniature

The novelty from Jaquet Droz is adorned with a picturesque miniature depicting two tits in a blooming garden against the backdrop of the Chinese wall. The watch is presented in a 41 x 12.10 mm case made of red gold. The miniature on the dial is assembled from hand-painted applique elements. The model is powered by a self-winding mechanism with a 68-hour power reserve. The watch, created in a single piece, is offered on a rubber strap.

Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback

Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback with sapphire counters

A chronograph from Rexhep Rexhepi that is unlike any other. The model's 38.8 x 9.7 mm case is made of platinum (with a blue-green enamel dial) or rose gold (with a black enamel dial). The counters here are made of clear sapphire and grouped in a triangular shape. The apex of the triangle shows the current time in hours and minutes, while the base shows the chronograph's minute and second counters.

Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback mechanism

The watch is powered by a hand-wound movement with a 72-hour power reserve. They are offered on a calfskin strap. The model's production is confidential (about 50 pieces per year). The approximate cost of the chronograph (regardless of version) is CHF 150,000.

Egerio La Fervent Magic Hour Tourbillon

Egerio La Fervent Magic Hour Tourbillon with unusual time display

A novelty from the French that makes you think about how to read these watches. The model's 53.3 x 43.6 x 14.3 mm case is made of titanium. Time is shown with the help of two large digits: one is visible through a window at the top of the dial, the other on a cube that rotates one position every hour, showing from 0 to 3. These are the hour digits that need to be added. Minutes are read on a linear scale in the center of the dial.

Egerio La Fervent Magic Hour Tourbillon mechanism

Inside is an automatic mechanism with a 60-hour power reserve. In addition to the unusual time indication, the mechanism supports the operation of a minute tourbillon, next to which a second scale can be seen. The cost of the model is not specified, but you can refer to last year's version with a blue dial, which was priced at CHF 145,000.

Urwerk UR-101 Diamond Sky Edition

Urwerk UR-101 Diamond Sky Edition with diamond inlays

If you didn't like Urwerk's aesthetics, this novelty may change your mind. The reason? Diamonds, spectacularly encrusted in the dial cover, lugs, and the perimeter of the steel case. The model is based on one from which the brand's history began almost 30 years ago. Instead of the usual satellites, time is displayed in an arched window with the 'wandering hour' function. The release is limited to 25 pieces. Read more about the watch in the review.

Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Chronos

Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Chronos with hand engraving

The highlight of this model is the hand engraving depicting the ancient Greek god of time. The watch case is 48 x 30 x 9.7 mm and made of red gold. The dial display (hours, minutes, seconds) is read from top to bottom. The model is powered by a hand-wound mechanism (base - Peseux caliber) with a 48-hour power reserve.

The watch comes with a black nubuck strap. The release is limited to 33 pieces. The estimated cost of the model is €63,000.

Anton Suhanov Flamingo

Anton Suhanov Flamingo watch with unique design

A novelty from Anton Suhanov that is interesting for three reasons. It is the first wristwatch to feature a 'flaming balance', an original design of a manufacture movement with many references to the master's native St. Petersburg, and an equally original power reserve indicator. When the hand enters the red zone of the indicator, corresponding to the last 12 hours of operation, it starts moving twice as fast.

The watch is presented in a 42 mm steel case and maintains Suhanov's signature style. The release is limited to 38 pieces. Read more about this model in the review.

Universal Genève Polerouter

Universal Genève Polerouter collection watches

A novelty, or rather, an entire collection of novelties, which can be confidently called the most important in the kaleidoscope of watches presented this week by Universal Genève. The collection includes 11 models, divided into three lines: Polerouter Date, Polerouter Hardstone, and Polerouter Camaïeu.

Universal Genève Polerouter collection details

The collection models are offered in steel or rose gold cases with a diameter of 39 or 37 mm. They all feature a sector-divided dial and a choice between a leather strap and a charming bracelet with a 'brick' texture. In the Polerouter Hardstone series, the dial is made from ornamental stones: bull's eye, tiger's eye, and lapis lazuli. Read more about the new Polerouter collection in the review.

M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud Editions

M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud Editions inspired by 90s club culture

You probably noticed these watches last year - the model, inspired by the club culture of the 90s, was then offered in another color. The highlight of this year's two novelties is that one of them, like other models from the M.A.D. collection, will be raffled in a lottery, and the other is intended for those MB&F brand fans who participated in previous lotteries but did not win anything.

The watches have a polished steel case measuring 42 x 12.3 mm. Inside is an automatic movement with a 64-hour power reserve, based on the La Joux-Perret G101 caliber. Registration for the lottery will be open from April 14 to 20. The estimated cost of the models is CHF 2,900.

Tissot Pinarello Special Edition

Tissot Pinarello Special Edition with cycling-inspired design

A novelty created in collaboration with one of the most prestigious road bicycle manufacturers, Pinarello. The watch is presented in a 42 mm forged carbon case. The cycling DNA is evident in the grainy dial texture reminiscent of asphalt. Inside is the Powermatic 80 mechanism. The watch is offered on an integrated rubber strap. The estimated cost of the model is CHF 1,355.