In January, when Audemars Piguet unveiled a plethora of new releases, the main highlights included the pocket watch 150 Heritage, Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.
However, I was most intrigued by the series of three tool watches. These can truly be called tool watches, crafted at the level of high horology with a matching price tag. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver models boast a water resistance of up to 300 meters and are equipped with an internal diving bezel, making them fully-fledged professional instruments. These three new steel models are unique and have no direct competitors. How impressive are they today, 16 years after the debut of the ROO Diver in 2010?
Competitive Analysis: Are There Alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver?
Can any watch truly serve as an alternative to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver with a price around €30,100? I can't think of any. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001, priced at €25,700, could be considered a budget option if you manage to find it at an official dealer, but it is not a diving watch.
The Blancpain Tech Ocean Commitment IV - a limited edition 45 mm titanium model priced at €23,250 - is a diver from a high horology brand, but it's sold out and too large to be considered an alternative to the 42-mm diver. The steel Fifty Fathoms Automatique model ref. 5010 1130 71S with a diameter of 42.3 mm at €19,700 seems too budget-friendly. The same goes for the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M at €15,800, which is more utilitarian than luxurious. The closest in price and prestige is the Rolex Deepsea Challenge at €28,500, but with a 50 mm case diameter, they are uncomfortable for everyday wear.
Hands-On Experience with the Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Models
Thus, the ROO Diver remains a unique model in its class. Let's find out how impressive it is 16 years after its debut. In 2010, the steel Royal Oak Offshore Diver with a black dial ref. 15703ST.OO.A002CA.01 (then priced at €13,800) made a strong impression on me. These are robust watches with many premium details that still look fresh and neat.
The most attractive feature of the ROO Diver is the dial's clarity. The lack of additional counters provides room to showcase the recognizable Mega Tapisserie pattern. The Offshore doesn't need to be a chronograph to emphasize its status as a reliable, functional, and exclusive ocean tool. The massive proportions of the case and the additional crown for controlling the internal diving bezel on the 42-mm case speak for themselves.
Color Options: Pink, Turquoise, and Dark Turquoise
The three new variations are based on the updated ROO Diver of 2021. Five years ago, Audemars Piguet equipped these watches with their own automatic caliber 4308. A sapphire case back and a patented quick strap change system were also introduced. Rubber caps on the screw-down crowns were replaced with ceramic ones, which was a noticeable improvement.
At first contact with any of the three new models, the 42-mm steel case with a thickness of 14.2 mm and a length of 55 mm inspires confidence. In hand, it feels both like costly luxury and a desire to dive into turquoise waters. But before that, you should take a close look at the beautifully finished case. Despite the protruding bezel, the case feels soft and smooth. The brushed surface of the bezel feels like satin, and the eight polished screws highlight its aesthetics.
Ideal Summer Size
My ideal summer model is undoubtedly the Royal Oak Offshore Diver. But which one exactly? As mentioned, the first version is still relevant, although the rubber on the crowns doesn't look very luxurious. There is also an attractive forged carbon version from 2012, which claims leadership. However, the perfect summer watch, without budget restrictions, would be the new steel models.
The case size is perfect. 42 mm is neither too large nor too small for a watch you mostly wear with short sleeves, feeling comfort and freedom. Summer is a time to relax, be more open, and enjoy life. Accordingly, the watch shouldn't hide under a cuff during business meetings but should stand out a bit. The ROO Diver is exactly the kind of watch rarely seen on wrists. This is not only due to the price but because the ROO is not chosen for showiness - for that, the 43-mm Selfwinding Chronograph is more suitable.
The ROO Diver with 300 m water resistance is a watch rarely encountered in everyday life. It is not an obvious choice, despite AP being a brand associated with exclusive sports-style watches with high horological expertise. The ROO Diver is an expression of individual style.
Steel and Color Accents
The new steel Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver is available in three color options:
- black with pink accents (15720ST.OO.A010CA.01),
- black with turquoise (15720ST.OO.A355CA.01),
- dark turquoise with a black and white rotating internal bezel (15720ST.OO.A403CA.01).
The watches feature black ceramic screw-down crowns, and inside the case operates the automatic caliber 4308 with a frequency of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 60 hours. Through the transparent case back, you can appreciate the high-quality finish of the movement: Côtes de Genève stripes, circular graining, and a black rotor made of 22-carat pink gold.
Each model comes with an interchangeable rubber strap matching the dial or accent color and a large steel XXL buckle.
The dials are adorned with a Méga Tapisserie pattern, large applied hour markers in white or pink gold, and wide functional hands with luminescent coating. The date window is located at the 3 o'clock position, and for enhanced readability, a small magnifying lens is integrated into the dial.
Wearing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver
The weight of the steel watch is 165 grams, making it far from light. However, the size and proportions of the case, combined with the soft wide rubber strap and large buckle, ensure the watch stays stable on the wrist. Can we say that 42 mm looks like 44? For models with pink and turquoise accents - possibly. The bright color solutions are noticeable and stand out.
The version with a dark turquoise dial, which I like the most, is much more restrained. The black-and-white internal bezel and rose gold details on the hands and crown give the watch a more refined look. The combination of blue and rose gold sometimes seems too bright and not always sophisticated, but dark turquoise with small elements of rose gold in a steel case looks timelessly elegant.
This combination adds seriousness to a watch made for pleasure. Rose gold also matches the high price of the model. I would gladly wear these watches all summer, both in water and on land. A pleasant and memorable tan on the wrist is guaranteed.
What are your thoughts on the three new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver models? Do you consider any of them the perfect summer watch? Please share your opinion in the comments.