Recently, Doxa announced a new line of divers in a more compact form factor - the 39mm Sub 200T. I had the chance to try the entire lineup.
I also had the full-size Sub 300T on hand for comparison. Overall, I managed to form a fairly complete picture of what the new Doxa diver is all about. Join me for a closer look at the new Doxa Sub 200T model.
A pleasant surprise, especially in today's crazy market, was the price of this new model. Doxa managed to offer it 400 euros cheaper than the larger Sub 300T. This places it in the mid-range diver category alongside Seiko. Let's see how they compare!
Technical Specifications of Doxa Sub 200T
Before moving on to the new dimensions, let's go over the essential specifications. The new Doxa Sub 200T watches measure 39 mm × 41.5 mm × 10.7 mm and are made of stainless steel. Water resistance is 200 meters, which is less than the 1200 of the Sub 300T, but still more than most will ever need. The case is crafted like true diving watches: screw-down case back, screw-down crown, unidirectional bezel, and sapphire crystal.
Inside is the reliable automatic caliber Sellita SW200-1 ébauche. The movement has the usual 38-hour power reserve and ticks at a frequency of 28,800 per hour. In my opinion, this is exactly the movement you want to see in such watches. It is reliable, simple, and easy to service anywhere. Any day of the week, I would choose it over proprietary or entry-level calibers. Thank you, Doxa, for not going down that path. My only remark is that Doxa does not specify the exact brand and type of watch on its website.
The Sub 200T is available in 26 variations. Each variant has its own colors, lacquered and sunburst dials, rubber strap, or rice bead bracelet. In short, there is practically a version for everyone, especially considering that Doxa clearly advertises these watches as unisex.
Smaller Size of Doxa Sub 200T
So, let's turn to the main topic - the size. Aesthetically, the Sub 200T is almost a perfect replica of the Sub 300T. You might think that the design of the Sub 200T is simply 92% copied. Of course, that's not all. For instance, the Sub 200T is thinner than the 300T, not proportionally, but much more. Add to this the 18mm lug width, and you get a watch that seems much more elegant and graceful.
Don't be fooled into thinking that these watches wear like the Tudor Pelagos 39 or a five-digit Rolex. Two Doxa-specific features make the Sub 200T much smaller. First, it's the miniature 41.5 mm lug-to-lug distance. Second, the bezel is only 35 mm wide. Visually, the watch looks more delicate on the wrist than one might even suggest from the modest 39 mm diameter.
What does this mean in terms of wearability? Well, it opens up new applications for Doxa divers - daily wear. If you get the model in a more subtle color, you can wear it for any occasion. On the wrist, they don't feel like big, impressive divers like their larger counterparts. They feel like sporty, vintage-inspired everyday watches. I understand how they can appeal to people with smaller wrists, but they can also be attractive to people with larger wrists who don't need the purely tool-like spirit of other models.
A Few Words About Dial Variations
The Doxa Sub 200T model is available in all traditional Doxa colors. Additionally, it is available in white and the new Sea Emerald green with gold accents. Interestingly, the traditional colors that did not yet have a sunburst effect (like the silver Searambler) now do. For each of these colors, Doxa also offers an "iconic" lacquered version.
While sunburst dials are not new for Doxa - there has always been the aforementioned Searambler and several chronographs with sunburst dials - the choice between flat and sunburst finish is new. I must admit that I am not a fan of them. In my opinion, the "sunshine" somewhat cheapens the watch. It's an embellishment that the watch doesn't need.
Interestingly, the difference is not always very noticeable in all color options. In some cases, you need to look twice to understand which version you have in your hands. I consistently preferred the iconic version. Nevertheless, it's good to have some variety, and perhaps this will attract a different clientele.
Wearing the Doxa Sub 200T
I am confident that the Doxa Sub 200T will be a big commercial success. I think these watches will appeal to those who like the Doxa style but are intimidated by the larger sizes. They will surely appeal to people with smaller wrists, possibly even women, whom the brand usually does not favor.
If I were buying a Doxa, I would go for the Sub 300T or, which I prefer, the Sub 300. With a 17.5 cm wrist, my wrist is certainly not large. Nevertheless, I feel that the larger size aligns more with Doxa's character. I like that the large tonneau-shaped case sits on the wrist like a curved shield. I like that they are hefty, slightly awkward watches. In this sense, the new Sub 200T is much better. It's just not as appealing to me as the less refined versions.
The 39mm Sub 200T looks too elegant on my wrist for a Doxa. The narrow 18mm lug width doesn't help in this regard. It really makes the watch too elegant for my liking. However, opinions among the WatchTested team were divided. Many of my colleagues preferred the new size over the larger models. It's purely a matter of personal preference and in no way means the new model isn't worthy of approval. However, I have one small gripe that might be less subjective - the length of the hands. The minute and second hands seem too short. They don't reach the minute track as far as on the larger Sub 300T.
Final Thoughts
The Sub 200T is undoubtedly a smart move from Doxa. It attracts new people to the brand both in terms of size and price. People looking for mid-range Seiko divers now have the Sub 200 and Sub 200T from Doxa as serious competitors. I understand how Doxa's mid-century niche and more specialized niche can draw buyers away from popular Japanese options.
In terms of quality, there is virtually nothing to criticize. The build and finish match the price perfectly. Speaking of price: €1,550 on rubber and €1,590 on the bracelet is a very competitive price. Of course, compared to the 300T model, you compromise on water resistance, but the much slimmer case easily justifies this. Therefore, I wouldn't be surprised if Doxa set the price for these watches, say, 200 euros lower than the 300T instead of 400 euros. It would even be justified if they were on par with the Sub 300T. Thank you, Doxa, for going against the trend of constant price increases!
What do you think of the new Doxa Sub 200T collection? Which variant would you choose? Let us know on our Telegram channel.