Modern Roger Dubuis watches are the antithesis of restraint, successfully combining traditional watchmaking with extravagant, expressive design.
This year, the focus was on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with a rare centrally placed regulator (only a few brands like Omega, which first patented it in 1995, Haldimann, and Bulgari have them). The key word here is Orbis, referring to the rotations of the tourbillon that repeat at different speeds with the rotation of the minute and hour disks. Encased in powerful rose gold armor, the Orbis in Machina watch has two distinct faces. The dial showcases a dynamic multi-layered rotating construction, while the back presents a more classic side of watchmaking art.
Based in Geneva, Roger Dubuis is a fully integrated manufacturer that has produced over 40 calibers since its founding in 1995, each marked with the coveted Poinçon de Genève quality seal. The latest Orbis in Machina model, long associated with in-house tourbillon mechanisms and skeletonized cases, is called a monotourbillon to distinguish it from the brand's double tourbillons.
The robust armor of the Excalibur case, home to the famous Knights of the Round Table series dedicated to Arthurian themes, bristles with serrated notches, triple-claw lugs, and mighty crown guards. Made of rose gold, the massive case of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina measures 45 mm in diameter and 14.41 mm in thickness. Given the sapphire crystals on the front and back case covers and the delicate tourbillon regulator, the 100-meter water resistance is an exceptional feature. Details like the round matte crown contrasting with the polished inner surface demonstrate exceptional attention to finishing details.
The centrally mounted tourbillon creates a denser, more symmetrical and restrained aesthetic. But it also means the traditional arrangement of the hour and minute hands is disrupted. The dial architecture is built around a central tower, suspended in space with skeletonized sections. Dominating is the central flying tourbillon, with concentric rings of gray and rose gold emanating from the center.
Thanks to the rings with second, minute, and hour indicators positioned at different heights, the dial is a true multi-layered 3D spectacle. Seconds are indicated by a gold-tipped hand located on the tourbillon carriage, while the hour and minute hands must bypass the tourbillon and rotate on disks driven by a patented planetary gear system.
To emphasize clarity of readings, the hour and minute indicators have an inner strip of Super-LumiNova, as do the polished rose gold hour markers applied to the peripheral ring. Time indicators are marked to avoid confusion - a dubious decision that may seem strange to some. Again, the superior finishing: circular brushing of the rings and mirror polishing of the tourbillon carriage's top.
One of the first brands to use transparent case backs in all its collections, it offers an unrestricted panoramic view of its in-house hand-wound movement. The RD115 caliber, an ode to classical watchmaking art, is decorated to Poinçon de Genève standards and features 19 different finishes. From small rounded bridges with Geneva stripes and polished angles to the radially brushed surface of the massive barrel - the movement's finish matches high watchmaking art. For a watch with so many rotating components, a 72-hour power reserve is impressive.
The Orbis in Machina watch on a thick calf leather strap with a quick-release system is secured on the wrist with a triple folding clasp in rose gold.
Availability and Price
The Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon is released in a limited edition of 88 pieces and is sold for 180,000 Swiss francs or 200,826 euros (all prices excluding taxes). More detailed information can be found on the website rogerdubuis.com.