Patek Philippe has introduced an updated version of one of its popular calendar models - Reference 5396R.
The watch retains the familiar annual calendar layout, first introduced by the brand in 1996, but now features a warmer sand beige sunburst dial and a rose gold case. This is not a full redesign but rather a subtle update of a familiar format in the company's catalog.
Features of the Patek Philippe Reference 5396R with Annual Calendar and Moon Phases
The 5396 model holds a special place in the Patek Philippe lineup. It offers a full calendar display indicating the day of the week, date, and month, while avoiding the complexity of a perpetual calendar. The annual calendar mechanism requires adjustment only once a year, making it one of the most practical complications in the brand's collection. The new version continues this tradition, emphasizing classic design without significant changes to the formula.
Case and Water Resistance
The watch is crafted in a fully polished rose gold case with a diameter of 38.5 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, providing a traditional feel on the wrist. Sapphire crystal is installed on both sides, and it has water resistance up to 30 meters.
Dial and Design
The main updates concern the dial. Its sand beige sunburst finish is softer compared to previous versions. Hour markers are in "obus" style with facets, made of rose gold, and the hands are in classic dauphine style with similar treatment. The layout remains unchanged: the day of the week and month are displayed in windows under the 12 o'clock mark, the date is located on a sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position, which also includes a moon phase indicator and a 24-hour indicator. This design is well-regarded for its symmetry and clarity, preferring tradition over experimentation.
Movement Patek Philippe Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H
Inside the watch is the automatic caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H. It features an annual calendar function, moon phase indication, a 24-hour indicator, and a central seconds hand. The balance frequency is 4 Hz, and the central rotor is made of 21-karat gold. The movement consists of 339 components and provides a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. Adjustments are made via the crown, with additional correctors on the case for convenient calendar and moon phase adjustments.
Strap and Clasp
The watch comes with a shiny dark chestnut alligator leather strap with square scales, hand-stitched, and a rose gold deployant clasp. The materials and finish align with the overall style of the piece: classic, traditional execution with an emphasis on restraint rather than contrast or a sporty character.
First Impressions of the 5396R Model
The 5396R does not aim for radical changes, and therein lies its strength. The new color gives the watch a warmer and more relaxed feel, yet the design language remains true to Patek Philippe's calendar aesthetic. The proportions and balance on the wrist have not changed, which is sure to please fans of previous versions of the model.
Within the broader collection, this model remains one of the most accessible ways to experience Patek Philippe's calendar complications. It holds an intermediate position below perpetual calendars, offering similar visual information in a simpler form. The update is perceived as a continuation of the existing philosophy, maintaining recognizability but with a new hue.
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Technical Specifications of the Watch
| Parameter | Description |
|---|---|
| Model | Annual Calendar with Moon Phases |
| Dial | Sand beige sunburst finish, obus-style rose gold hour markers with facets, dauphine hands in rose gold |
| Case Size | Diameter 38.5 mm, thickness 11.2 mm |
| Case Back | Sapphire crystal (exhibition) |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H, automatic, 28,800 vibrations per hour, power reserve up to 45 hours |
| Strap | Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, dark chestnut color |
| Functions | Annual calendar: day, date, month in windows, moon phases, 24-hour indication |
