Since its debut in the fall of 2020, Oris's automatic Calibre 400 movement has gradually been making its way through the brand's lineup as the new de facto flagship three-hand movement. The Aquis diver model, a cornerstone of Oris's collection, was a natural choice for the new movement's debut in late October 2020. However, at that time, the Calibre 400 was limited to full-sized 43.5mm models. Ahead of summer 2021, as enthusiasts search for new sports watches for vacation, Oris takes the next logical step and transfers the Calibre 400 into a more compact 41.5mm Aquis model. Rather than reinventing the wheel, the new Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm series allows the new movement to speak for itself while maintaining the classic Aquis look.
As the name implies, the case of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm in stainless steel measures 41.5mm. The modern and slightly unconventional case shape of the Aquis, with slab sides, heavy wide crown guards, and short angular semi-integrated lugs, is characteristic of previous 41.5mm Aquis models, and like those, the unique proportions of the Aquis can be somewhat misleading.
In practice, the narrow profile of the case middle without any outward flare, combined with a sharp downward slope and short lugs, creates a sense that the Aquis series watches wear much more compactly on the wrist than more traditional dive models. As with previous versions, the large-toothed unidirectional diving bezel is noticeably wider than the case beneath it, resulting in a slight overhang that should aid grip. The ceramic bezel insert features a bright, legible white diving scale against a black, dark blue, or dark green base. Around back, Oris provides a sapphire display caseback to showcase the new in-house movement, but despite this more vulnerable element, the case maintains an impressive 300 meters of water resistance.
Like the cases, the dials of the new Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm series retain the familiar look, subtly hinting at the new movement inside. The most noticeable difference between these dials and those of previous 41.5mm models equipped with the Sellita movement is the date window at 6 o'clock. If the smaller diameter Sellita movement caused the date indicator on these models to be slightly off-center, resulting in a date window and truncated index at 6 o'clock, the larger date wheel of the Calibre 400 moves the window at 6 o'clock directly in line with the other faceted applied hour indices, completely eliminating the index at 6 o'clock for a cleaner, simpler look.
Except for this small change and the “5 Days” text at 6 o'clock, the dial design remains unchanged, with the familiar round arrow hands and sporty “alpha” style indices returning. Like many previous Aquis models, all three versions of the new Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5m series feature sunburst dials. Buyers can choose between dark anthracite gray, oceanic blue, and emerald green, which appears deep and rich in initial images.
The proprietary automatic Calibre 400 movement in the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm represents a significant step forward in the brand's watchmaking craftsmanship, especially for core models. Despite accuracy within COSC chronometer standards of -3/+5 seconds per day, Oris, interestingly, does not submit these movements for certification. Beyond superior accuracy, the Calibre 400 boasts magnetic resistance up to 2,250 gauss, more than 11 times the current ISO standard for anti-magnetic properties. This durability extends to the automatic rotor, where the complex and often fragile ball bearing system is replaced by a mechanically simpler and more reliable system of metal sliding bearings with grooves and tabs, which Oris claims undergoes much less wear.
The power reserve is also reliable: twin mainspring barrels provide an impressive 120-hour power reserve at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. Oris also emphasizes the durability of the Calibre 400 platform, recommending a 10-year service interval instead of the usual five years. While the Calibre 400's specifications are undeniably robust, the movement's finish is simple, bordering on industrial. A matte-finished three-quarter bridge occupies much of the space beneath the caseback, aside from the balance wheel, and the skeletonized signature rotor features a clean matte finish.
The semi-integrated three-link stainless steel bracelet with a diver's extension has historically been a distinctive design feature of the Oris Aquis, and the new Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm line continues this trend. With a sharply tapering profile transitioning from a narrow clasp directly into the case, and bright polishing on the outer links to visually match the lugs, this bracelet possesses a unique and eye-catching appearance.
Oris prevents the bracelet from appearing too uniform or ostentatious with vertically brushed central links. For those who prefer straps, all three models in the new line can be equipped with the brand's signature textured black rubber strap, which also includes a deployant clasp and diving extension, lending the watch a modern and functional sporty look.
Although some may find the lack of visual distinction from the brand's more affordable Sellita-powered options troubling, the new Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm series offers impressive capabilities in a more compact diver design without compromising the signature Aquis style.
The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm watches are now available from authorized dealers at $3,300 on the rubber strap and $3,500 with the stainless steel bracelet. More information can be found on the brand's website.
