Baltic, a young and fresh watch manufacturer from France, has made a name for itself in just a few years with its collection of watches boasting a wonderful neo-retro design and quite affordable prices. It all started with a duo of watches inspired by the 1940s, with a slight elegant touch. The brand then shifted to a more sporty track, releasing several Aquascaphe series. Today, Etienne Malec (the brand's founder) returns to one of his favorite types of watches, the so-called Calatrava style, presenting elegant and compact watches with a micro-rotor that impressed us greatly... Stunning looks, a superb dial, and even mechanical pleasure - let's take a closer look at the new Baltic MR01 model.
As a reminder, here’s what you need to know about Baltic Watches - the brainchild of Etienne Malec, a young Frenchman who inherited his father's passion for watches, as he told us several years ago. Being an avid collector, his father accumulated a collection of exceptional watches over the years, some of which inspired the design of Baltic's first two models. Unfortunately, Etienne's father passed away when he was still very young, so they never really got to share this passion together. Creating Baltic Watches was a way for Etienne to pay tribute to his father and express his passion for watches - knowing him quite well, I can say he is more than passionate.
Today, after numerous adventure or diving watches, including the Aquascaphe GMT and Aquascaphe Dual-Crown, Etienne and his team return to something more elegant, perhaps more niche, but extremely desirable if you know a bit about vintage watches, the so-called Calatrava-style watches, in the new Baltic MR01 collection.
CALATRAVA INSPIRATION
Behind the name Calatrava, often used by collectors to define a specific type of watch, lies one extremely important model that introduced this name and overall design - the original Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96. Patek Philippe (then in a difficult situation) created in 1932 a model that would revolutionize wristwatch design and become the essence of dress watches. In the early 1930s, wristwatches were still a relatively new phenomenon, but they quickly gained popularity after widespread use in World War I. Pocket watches or pocket watch movements encased in wrist form were still often seen. What Patek achieved with the Calatrava model is not only one of the most important early wristwatches but also the epitome of understated elegance.
The key element of Calatrava watches is the actual case design, which will be common to most iterations created. Despite hundreds of different dials, the case remains more or less the same in all versions and is a signature element. The case clearly shows Bauhaus influence, a minimalist, graphical approach to design. A feature of the Calatrava model is its three-part construction, which today is taken for granted but was quite new at the time. The watch has a flat, stepped bezel (also known as a coin edge) and a snap-on back. But most importantly, it’s the middle case with lugs that are integrated into this element, not soldered onto it. This allowed the modest lugs to become an integral part of the overall design.
BALTIC MR01, AN ACCESSIBLE CALATRAVA
Let's get straight to the point... Some of the most desirable Calatrava watches currently on the market are the Patek Philippe 5196P with a platinum case, two-tone dial, and Breguet numerals. But with a price significantly exceeding 30,000 euros, these watches are certainly not for the masses. They are watches bought with intent, not the kind acquired just like that... But if you're looking for such Calatrava-style watches, outside of the vintage market, there are not many affordable yet serious alternatives. And this is where Baltic makes a strong impact, offering watches with style, relevance, and fidelity (and even cool mechanics) at a price that makes them a possible acquisition 'for pleasure.'
The beauty of the Baltic MR01 lies primarily in its case: compact, vintage-shaped Calatrava, but slightly reworked by the brand for more presence and feel. The diameter is just 36 mm, which may seem small by today's standards, but two points should be noted. Firstly, the lugs are quite powerful and long, resulting in 44 mm from lug to lug. This is by no means an excessively large size, but it increases the watch's presence on the wrist. The second distinctive feature is the width of the bezel, again enhanced for greater visual effect.
As for the case itself, the Baltic MR01 has a typical Calatrava construction: a matte central part with lugs that are an integral element, and a flat stepped bezel with a polished surface. Aside from the small diameter, the MR01 is a thin watch, with a case height of 8 mm (without glass) or 9.9 mm (with glass). Paying homage to vintage watches, the watch is equipped with a domed Hesalite crystal, which provides more warmth as well as cool distortions - but requires more care from you. The case back features a transparent window, and overall the case execution is very pleasant.
The watch is pleasant to wear in terms of comfort, and despite the compact diameter, it doesn't feel small. The watch is worn on a simple but adequate smooth calf leather strap with a pin buckle, available in blue, black, or cognac.
DIAL WITH IMPRESSIVE DETAILS
The Baltic MR01 case may be inspired by classic Calatrava watches... but the dial certainly also plays on these vibes, but with a twist and execution that, let's be honest, is extremely impressive considering the price.
Firstly, note that while we only had the salmon version of the Baltic MR01 for this practical article, there are 3 different versions available, including silver and blue. But as you know, at WatchTested we have a soft spot for white metal cases and salmon dials. The dial uses emblematic elements of highly desirable vintage watches, and while this trick might seem simple, it definitely works. It starts with the central part with a strong grained surface and an unusual display - the small seconds hand is located at the '7 o'clock' position. Of course, some will regret the symmetry of the small seconds hand at the '6 o'clock' position, but this is the construction of the mechanism, and in the end, it gives the MR01 personality.
There are many textures on the dial: a concentric pattern on the small seconds hand and a matte railroad track surface. And then there are these beautifully designed and executed Breguet numerals. Often associated with Calatrava watches of the 1930s (as well as the sector dial), they feature stunning detailing, fine execution, and a pleasant polished surface. They play strongly with the surrounding light and add great depth to this dial. In the same spirit, the leaf-shaped hands are executed - faceted and finely crafted.
The Baltic MR01 really excels with this dial, which combined with the compact Calatrava case creates the desired vintage mood, as well as a sense of quality and attention to detail, quite unexpected in this price range.
MICRO-ROTOR MOVEMENT
At the heart of the Baltic MR01 is a movement from China. Producing such watches at an acceptable price requires some compromises, but in this case, looking through the case back, there's much to be intrigued by. There's no standard automatic movement with a central rotor here. Instead, Baltic chose an ultra-thin micro-rotor movement, produced by Hangzhou Watch Company (a competitor to Seagull).
This movement from the 5 series is notable primarily for its architecture, usually associated only with high-end manufacturers, with a micro-rotor that allows for maintaining a height of less than 4 mm and showcasing most components. It is also a rather large caliber, 30 mm, making the view through the case back very appealing. Technically it beats at a frequency of 4 Hz and maintains a power reserve of up to 42 hours.
As expected from watches at this price, the decoration is entirely machine-made, but not unpleasant, with circular stripes, blue screws, and a gold-colored rotor.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Baltic MR01 watches are presented today in three options - salmon, silver, and blue - and are already available on the brand's website. The price is 650 euros (including taxes), which seems very fair considering the attention to detail on the case and dial. Moreover, the appearance of the watch alone justifies its purchase. I know I'm not quite objective, but the watch truly looks stunning.
For more detailed information and to order, please visit the baltic-watches.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - BALTIC MR01
Case: 36 mm diameter x 9.9 mm height (crystal included - 8 mm without crystal) - 44 mm from lug to lug - stainless steel Calatrava-style case, matte sides, polished flat bezel with coin edge - domed Hesalite crystal - transparent case back - water-resistant (no depth indication)
Dial: Available in salmon, silver, or blue, with a grained finish, small seconds with a concentric pattern, matte railroad track - applied and polished Arabic Breguet numerals - polished and faceted leaf-shaped hands
Movement: Hangzhou ELA05MN movement - automatic ultra-thin with micro-rotor - 30 jewels - 28,800 vibrations/hour - power reserve 42 hours - adjusted to +20/-20 sec/day - hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: Smooth calf leather strap (blue, cognac, or black) with steel pin buckle
Availability: Not limited in quantity, but the first MR01 models will be numbered from 1 to 200, for each dial color
Price: 650 euros (incl. taxes), 542 euros (excluding taxes)