Contrary to the title of this article, independent watchmaking is not something new.
Most major names have been around for several decades, and even their meteoric rise has been ongoing for a few years. Nevertheless, the growth of independent watchmakers is a sign of a changing landscape that extends beyond this handful of elevated creators. They are the tip of a much larger iceberg that is becoming an increasingly prominent figure in the watchmaking world.
Responding to the call for rarity, individuality, and uniqueness, small watch companies are gaining momentum. From microbrands to modders, from third-party suppliers to elite watch brands to genuine independent producers - they are emerging in all price segments.
Defining Independent Companies
To clarify, we need to define some terms. This article will discuss independent companies in the broadest sense of the word. It refers to watch companies not associated with major luxury conglomerates. Often these are relatively young, founder-owned, and small enterprises. There are many exceptions to these rules, but let's take this as a starting point.
This definition includes independent high-end watchmakers. They are often referred to as "independents," but I believe we can stretch this definition quite far to explore my premise. Let me argue that I group them with microbrands based solely on the above terms, similar to how a world-famous soprano and a local guitar teacher are both professional musicians, even though their workdays are entirely different, and their value is assessed by completely different criteria.
Champions League: Independent Haute Horlogerie
At the very top, we see names like Philippe Dufour, MB&F, F.P. Journe, Vianney Halter, Roger Smith, and Kari Voutilainen. Today it seems obvious that they sit at the top of the food chain in the watch world. Their creations are mind-blowing, pushing the boundaries of art and technology and commanding astronomical prices. Nevertheless, waitlists can be 10 years or more, and they may have stopped accepting orders altogether.
However, most independent companies have known tougher times. For a long time, it seemed they would always work for the love of creation rather than money. Yet their watches have become the pinnacle of passion for horology. After collecting Pateks, Langes, and Vacherons, this is the next level.
Rarity certainly plays a significant role in this. Most such independent companies produce a few dozen watches a year, and even if they wanted to, they could not scale up due to the lack of craftsmen with the necessary skills. But there is also the romance of a solitary artist with a unique, radical vision. Whether it's MB&F, Urwerk, or Roger Smith, this is where the most extreme innovations and artistry come to life.
Entry-Level Independents: Microbrands
Independent brands are present in every price segment. Moreover, some microbrands are pushing boundaries, especially at the entry-level. Not long ago, many focused on offering value for money. They often drew inspiration from iconic watch designs and executed them in relatively high quality at very competitive prices.
This sparked controversy. Some enthusiasts saw them as Robin Hoods of watchmaking, fighting against pomp, circumstance, and inflated prices. Others viewed them as imitators, selling derivative designs at low quality. However, microbrands have come a long way since then. They are leveraging their strengths, particularly individuality. Often run by one enthusiast or a few, but no more than that, they can be more radical and distinctive than large shareholder-driven brands. They can represent a singular artistic vision, resulting in more inspired watches than some mainstream design offerings. In this sense, they take cues from independent Haute Horlogerie watch houses.
Microbrands have also shed the stigma of being "cheap and cheerful." Thanks to low overheads, they can still offer better prices, but now they dare to venture into more expensive timepieces. This broadens their audience. Enthusiasts who were uninterested a few years ago may now eagerly consider a microbrand's offering. I believe the individual approach and accessibility of these independents set them apart from faceless mainstream brands, especially during a period of soaring prices and unavailability.
Mid to High-End Independent Brands
As mentioned earlier, some microbrands are moving into higher segments. Now, elements once exclusive to major brands can be seen in them. Exotic materials, top-level finishes, handcrafting, and even proprietary calibers are now abundant in independent creations. For transparency, I'll say that I am the owner of such an emerging watch company, so you understand why I confidently view this segment.
If you thought there was a gap between microbrands and independent watch companies, it's now being filled. Hybrids are emerging, offering Haute Horlogerie watches with outsourced manufacturing. As with major watch brands, the extent of the work they do themselves varies. Some source parts externally, refining and assembling much themselves. Others, like most microbrands, fully produce their models abroad.
In some ways, this is reminiscent of the old watch industry. Today, mainstream brands strive to maintain the illusion that they do everything themselves under one roof. However, for a long time, there was nothing wrong with ordering cases from manufacturers and dials from cadraniers. Now independent companies like Fleming are re-adopting this approach, even in the very high-end segment.
Independents in the Broader Watch World
It seems that independent watch companies in all segments are resonating with enthusiasts. This makes perfect sense, as their small scale allows them to disregard the masses. You can be much more radical and specific if you need to find dozens or hundreds of buyers a year, not hundreds of thousands. This means independents can be ultra-niche, ignored by most and loved by a few.
But there are justified caveats here. It can be difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff, especially among online offerings. Technical specifications are easy to compare online, but actual quality and finish are not. And what about the long-term availability of parts? Who will service your watch if a tiny independent company carelessly goes out of business? You must be sure that a small watch company is sound in this regard. Since trust is easier to lose than to gain, a single case of mismanagement by one such company can damage the reputation of the entire segment.
I find this part of the watch industry endlessly fascinating, as evidenced by my attempt to become part of it. I expect independents to become increasingly prominent, especially among enthusiasts. Many mainstream brands owned by groups are shifting focus away from enthusiasts, leaving a gap that needs to be filled. Small independent watch companies seem well-prepared for this task. Let's see how significant they become in the coming years!
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