It has been just over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf model.
The design of the watch was inspired by the late 70s Navygraf II model. Last year, I had the chance to experience the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT model, and I liked it. The updated style and high comfort made the GMT watch appealing. Notably, the GMT version has yet to receive a follow-up. With the new limited edition Navygraf Slim CMM.20, Yema releases a three-hand model with a time-only movement that looks very stylish and operates on the brand's signature micro-rotor movement. The result is a stylish limited edition Navygraf that I was eager to try.
When we think of Yema dive watches, the first model that comes to mind is the popular Superman model. We've seen several different iterations of this diver line inspired by vintage motifs. It somewhat contrasts with the two Navygraf models released by the Morteau brand. The new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 is the second after the Marine Nationale GMT I mentioned earlier. This latest model is a step forward compared to the GMT version. It follows the example of the Superman Slim model that Daan reviewed earlier this year, with an in-house movement and a slimmer profile.
Navygraf Slim CMM.20 - A Logical Step for Yema.
Dive watches and micro-rotor movements are not the most common combination. Micro-rotor calibers are usually used in dress and sports watches with integrated bracelets. However, Yema follows a different strategy and uses its own CMM.20 micro-rotor movement to create slimmer and more refined diver versions.
This strategy of enhancing regular models demonstrates the significant strides the French brand has taken to create its own calibers. Therefore, it is quite logical for Yema to equip various models from its collection with its high-end movement.
We first saw the CMM.20 caliber in the Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor Limited Edition model. We also had the opportunity to look behind the scenes to show the enormous efforts Yema makes to continually develop and refine its movements and watches.
At first glance, the Navygraf CMM.20 is clearly different from the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT. Both in profile and overall, the watch has a greater visual impact than the previous GMT model.
Details of the Limited Edition Navygraf Slim CMM.20
The new Navygraf model features a 39mm stainless steel case with a length of 46mm from tip to tip and 19mm between the lugs. It also has a slim profile with a thickness of just under 12mm, including the domed sapphire crystal (9.5mm without it). Thus, the Navygraf Slim is slightly thinner than the Superman Slim. The watch is still water-resistant up to 300 meters, making it very suitable for diving.
The overall case profile is very pleasing, with a matte finish and polished bevels giving the watch a stylish look. Everyone at WatchTested who saw the watch agreed that Yema did a great job creating a thin case with a beautiful smooth profile.
The case features a large screw-down crown, and the unidirectional bezel has a black sapphire insert with white markers. This insert looks stylish with its combination of graphic markers but lacks some practicality as it does not have numbers.
This Navygraf is All About Style.
The watch features a black lacquered enamel dial with applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The dial design echoes the design of the Yema Navygraf II model from the 1970s. The stainless steel hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova BGW9, while the second hand is finished in bright yellow. It matches the yellow Navygraf name on the upper half of the dial, resulting in a chic look. Although it's not as "hardcore" a diver as the Yema Superman, it compensates with its retro style.
When you turn the watch over, you get a beautiful view of the signature CMM.20 movement. The abbreviation stands for Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20. The movement was designed and developed by Yema's watchmakers in Morteau, France.
The black satin finish of the movement pairs perfectly with the overall black style, but the contrasting tungsten micro-rotor, spinning on ball bearings, immediately catches the eye. The automatic caliber operates at a frequency of 28,800 per hour, is equipped with 33 jewels, and has a power reserve of 70 hours.
Yema states that the accuracy is between +7 to -3 seconds per day, which is close to COSC chronometer standards.
Wearing the Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20
As soon as I put the watch on my wrist, I was impressed by its style, graceful profile, and pleasant finish. The thin case and flexible leather strap are a delight to wear. The strap, made of grained black leather, has a nice tapering shape and is fitted with a stainless steel buckle.
These are very clean watches with a vintage style, making them a great departure from my usual sporty watches. This might sound a bit strange because Navygraf is essentially a sports watch too. But in this slim version, everything is different. It has become more stylish, making the watch an excellent option for everyday wear.
After wearing the watch for a few days, I was impressed with its style. The movement also pleased me with its performance. However, the "auditory quality" of the movement was surprising. You can hear the micro-rotor spinning on ball bearings.
This isn't necessarily bad, but given that the limited edition of 200 pieces is priced at 1,990 euros, my expectations were a bit different. As many of you know, preferences regarding the sound of a movement are very personal, so I don't presume to judge real quality or accuracy. It's just a personal observation.
Overall, I enjoyed wearing the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 for several days. It balances the Navygraf's diving roots with modern style, making it a great piece. I also hope the brand will add a few more models to the lineup because this 70s-inspired classic deserves a permanent place in Yema's collection.
For more information or to purchase the Navygraf Slim CMM.20, visit the official Yema website. On the Telegram channel, you can share your opinion about this new, slimmer version of the Yema Navygraf.