It's Sunday morning! Yes, that means it's time for another Sunday Morning Showdown, inspired by the novelties we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024.
After last week's Tudor vs. Rolex clash, it's time for a full-scale Rolex showdown.
Last year, The Crown introduced the GMT-Master II “Black and Gray” versions in 18k yellow gold and Rolesor. This year, Rolex presented a stainless steel version. Many watch enthusiasts predicted the arrival of this model this year. But how does it compare to its two-tone counterpart? Let's find out in this GMT-Master II face-off.
Watches and Wonders 2024 has officially entered the annals of history. Expect hands-on reviews of our favorite novelties and explosive battles in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, it's all about the Rolex GMT-Master II watch battle. Specifically, it's a battle between the two-tone GMT-Master II versions in stainless steel with a black and gray bezel.
Last year's full gold and two-tone versions delighted many fans, and this year's steel model not only recalls last year's bezel color but eerily resembles the GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN released in 2007. Consequently, it stands out noticeably from its current stainless steel GMT siblings. But is it also more popular? Let's find out.
Last Week in the Showdown...
But first, let's recall last week's match. Last Sunday, the new METAS-certified Black Bay clashed with the current Rolex Submariner ref. 124060. The new Tudor comes very close to the Submariner in the Black Bay lineup. However, the results showed that it doesn’t surpass the original in feel. The Submariner garnered 59% of the votes, while the Black Bay got 41%. The comment section was divided. Some of you declared the Black Bay the new Submariner with a new "non-retro" look. Others firmly stated that the Submariner is still the original, and nothing compares to it. It will be interesting to see how opinions change once people get their hands on the new Black Bay. Meanwhile, let's head to Artem and Maxim to battle for the GMT-Master II this week.
Maxim: Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR
I'll start by saying last year's Rolex novelties impressed me far more than this year's. With the titanium Yacht-Master 2023, a pair of GMT-Master II, and a 40mm Explorer, the Geneva brand released four watch models that I really liked.
Additionally, the updated Daytona collection showcased significant improvements over the previous generation. This year, The Crown impressed me far less. Besides the new Day-Date 36 with a white dial and the stainless steel GMT-Master II, no other novelties intrigued me.
But choosing between last year's Rolesor version and this year's stainless steel "Black and Gray" GMT-Master II version is not difficult. The steel and yellow gold model ref. 126713GRNR is an undisputed winner in my book.
This week, the battle is about aesthetics. But this aesthetic transitions into the overall emotion, based not only on colors and materials. Last year's GMT-Master II duo perfectly conveyed that vintage sentimentality that makes pre-Cerachrome sports models so appealing.
Vintage Vibes for a Modern Rolex
While most of the brand's sports models have turned into shiny, rather flashy versions of their predecessors, last year gave Rolex nostalgia seekers a glimmer of hope. The GMT-Master II, with its vintage vibe, defines these two watches that beautifully link to the five-digit era. Rationalizing this vibe is always a difficult task: you either feel it or you don't. But in the interest of discussion, let's try to do that.
It all starts with the combination of stainless steel and yellow gold. This specific combination of materials takes us back to the 1970s-80s, the heyday of two-tone bliss. Rolex set the standard for two-tone watches by releasing many dazzling steel and gold models.
Among my favorites are the Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 and its successor 16753. In particular, the celebrated "Root Beer" model is one of my favorite Rolex watch models. Not so long ago, I wrote a lengthy love letter extolling the "Clint Eastwood," explaining why I love these watches so much. I also hinted at what makes last year's Rolesor GMT-Master II so good.
It's the Combination of Factors That Makes It Work
As mentioned, the combination of materials yields excellent results. It might be redundant to mention, but for me, the main thing is steel and yellow gold, not steel and Everose gold. The latter option lacks those classic connotations, so the "modern Root Beer" ref. 126711CHNR is not what some imagine it to be.
Additionally, gold and steel pair best with the Jubilee bracelet. This bracelet style suits mixed metals much better than the Oyster. The Jubilee in steel and yellow gold has a specific vibe that's hard to surpass. Stainless steel watches don't make the same impression.
And this atmosphere continues on the bezel insert. As some of you know, I have a penchant for black and gold. These colors give the Cerachrom bezel insert much more pizzazz than the black-silver color combination of the new stainless steel model 126710GRNR. The visual appeal continues with the golden indices and hands.
Against the black dial, they create an undeniably stylish look. The golden GMT hand takes center stage in this combination of elements. In terms of color, it blends with the dial but stands out in style. That's where my issues with the new stainless steel model begin.
Choosing Two-Tone GMT-Master II Is Very Simple
Looking at the new stainless steel model 126710GRNR, we all knew it was coming. I was genuinely curious to see what Rolex would come up with. Rolex made a logical choice by linking it to the 2007 model ref. 116710LN because the text and GMT hand only needed a hint of color. However, my main complaint about these watches is the presence of green elements.
I just don't like the combination of green and black colors. Add to that the stainless steel exterior, and you get a rather dull execution of a great watch. On top of that, the watch resembles the first Cerachrom GMT-Master II, and I just don't have the right feelings to fall in love with their new version.
Compared to this, last year's two-tone version is much more interesting and hits the right note regarding Rolex's mood. As I mentioned, it's hard to rationalize emotions related to something you care about. But these emotions would make me happily choose last year's GMT-Master II with a black-gray bezel for €17,350 in Rolesor.
Of course, it's €6,000 more expensive than the stainless steel model. But it's also the difference between a watch I love and a watch I wouldn't choose even compared to their current stainless steel counterparts "Pepsi" or "Sprite/Starbucks". But I would love to hear your thoughts, Artem.
Artem: Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR
Thank you, Maxim! I understand your point about the vintage appeal of your 126713GRNR's two-tone configuration. I also associate this look with the 1980s in a good way. However, the current two-tone GMT-Master II has one big problem, and you've already mentioned it – it's the GMT-Master ref. 16753.
If you want to feel the vintage vibe, buy the real model. I would always want the delightful ringing sound of a Jubilee from that generation in a two-tone watch. Similarly, I would always want an aluminum bezel insert and the better proportions of the old model.
The fact is, you can get a 16753 with a nipple dial and in excellent condition for about €5,000 less than the new 126713GRNR. In my opinion, that's the way to get all the vintage Rolex charm you're looking for. And don't forget, these watches were already built like tanks, so they won't suffer from everyday use.
The Gray Color of the Rolex GMT-Master II
One of the many things linking our two works today is the black-gray bezel. Admittedly, I'm not a fan of it. For lack of a more pleasant description, the gray color seems like primer paint to me. I prefer fully black bezels, but there you go.
Maxim, you skillfully selected photos that create the impression that the bezel on your 126713GRNR is entirely black. However, in real life, the gray color is quite pronounced. It completely disrupts the classic, vintage two-tone style.
It's a strange modern element against the backdrop of traditional watches. I still don't like this bezel on my 126710GRNR, but at least it blends with the watch. Thanks to the cool all-steel construction, the gray part of the bezel seems grounded. It looks like it belongs here, whether you like it or not.
Choosing the Right Rolex GMT-Master (II)
In the end, I think the choice is really simple, although I've come to a different conclusion than you, Maxim. If I were to pursue vintage charm, I'd acquire a five-digit two-tone GMT-Master. I'd chase after a beautiful version with a tritium/nipple dial on a Jubilee bracelet.
If you need the super-engineered perfection of modern Rolex, I think the all-steel 126710GRNR makes much more sense. Both 126710GRNR and 16753 are slightly more specialized than 126713GRNR. The latter seems to try to bridge the gap between vintage and modern. Unfortunately, I find it neither fish nor fowl.
Vote
That's it – the two Rolex GMT-Master II with black and gray bezels go head to head. Which is your favorite? Cast your vote and share your reasoning on our Telegram channel.