The name Vulcain is synonymous with alarm watches.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the brand was primarily known for this complication. In recent years, Vulcain has returned to its roots and expanded its collection to include divers, chronographs, and now models focusing solely on timekeeping. The Grand Prix line is the simplest among them.
I spent several weeks with the Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm Champagne, the most affordable and straightforward model in the current Vulcain lineup. It offers elegance and convenience that a three-hand watch can provide, and it does not disappoint. Surprisingly, I became attached to this watch and did not want to take it off after the test period ended.
Vulcain
A few years ago, as the brand was making its comeback, the main focus was on alarm watches - and rightly so. The Cricket Classique line was one of the first to hit the market. But Vulcain offers much more than just alarm watches.
Over the past two years, we have spent some time with the Skindiver Nautique model, a beautiful and functional diver, as well as its bigger brother, the Vulcain Nautical. The latter combines the functionality of an alarm with a diver's case, creating a unique reinterpretation of a model from a bygone era.
Besides these, the revamped Vulcain company has released two chronograph lines - Chronograph 1970’s and Monopusher. Finally, we come to the topic of today's article - the Grand Prix. With the same vintage energy as the aforementioned models, the GP offers incredible value for money thanks to its clean lines and timeless elegance.
Grand Prix Model
Like other models, the Grand Prix also draws inspiration from vintage Vulcain watches. However, aside from the name and basic idea, there is nothing in common between them and this new model. The design and execution may have been inspired by old watches, but they are new.
Perhaps the only similar design element is the model name under the brand name at the “12 o'clock” position. Vulcain offers the Grand Prix in three dial options. In addition to silver and black, you can choose a champagne-colored dial. I chose this option. While I like the simplicity of the silver and black dials, I feel that the champagne version offers its owner a bit more. Such a color is rare, especially in a case of this size.
Modern Classic
One of the trends I've observed in the watch industry in recent years is the reduction in watch sizes. Gone are the days when 46mm monsters dominated the market. Now it is hardly possible to find watches larger than 42mm, and I am all for this. In Vulcain's official press materials, the Grand Prix size is stated as 39mm, but having measured it with calipers, I can tell you it is more like 38mm. Yes, it is still larger than the 33-35mm vintage Grand Prix models, but I am happy with this size.
It's not too big and not too small - just right for most watch wearers. The length of 45.4mm from lug to lug is also good, and the thickness of 12.7mm, in my opinion, is quite acceptable, especially considering that the new Grand Prix is a simple automatic watch without numerals, date aperture, or anything else.
The semi-gloss champagne dial features a clean design with long relief indices. The watch dial is covered by a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The thin steel hands show only hours and minutes with a central second hand.
The 316L steel case is polished, even on the sides of the short lugs, while the case back is made of solid stainless steel and polished with some matte elements. The crown does not screw down, but the case back does, providing water resistance up to 5 ATM (50 meters), which is more than adequate.
You probably won't take the Vulcain Grand Prix swimming, especially on the 20mm leather strap, which is available in several different colors and styles.
Beating Heart
The new Vulcain Grand Prix watches are equipped with the automatic mechanical L24 movement from Landeron. The L24 caliber with 25 jewels is based on the ETA 2824 and is usually equipped with a date complication. In this model, it has been removed. It has a power reserve of about 40 hours, a frequency of 28,800 per hour (4 Hz), and a hacking second hand, allowing the owner to set the time precisely.
While the Landeron 24 is not a particularly complex movement, it is not supposed to be. Instead, it is expected to be a reliable and easily serviceable caliber, and it is exactly that. Additionally, thanks to the high price, Vulcain can offer the Grand Prix at very favorable conditions.
Closing Arguments
The new Vulcain Grand Prix model priced at 1,190 Swiss francs on a brown strap, as shown in the photo, is certainly within the price range of Swiss watches aimed solely at timekeeping. One could argue that it is even on the cheaper side of the spectrum. But that's a secondary matter in my view.
The most important question is: Is it enough to claim the title of a dress watch, an elegant timepiece that pairs equally well with suits and ties as it does with a polo shirt and jeans?
Yes, I believe it is. The dial options provide sufficient versatility and can be paired with a wide range of leather straps. As always, the proof is in the pudding, so I would advise you to check the watch in metal before purchasing if possible. I will be surprised if you don't like them.
To see all Grand Prix dial options and available strap combinations, visit the official Vulcain website.