Wide, massive lugs, Grand Seiko vibes, a manual-wind mechanical movement, a date with a magnifier, no luminescence, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indices.
Do not forget the attractive price. It can be said that all of this makes the Seiko Cronos Self Dater the perfect entry-level vintage watch.
The first Seiko Cronos watches, released by Daini Seikosha, featured a central seconds hand and a large applied “S” symbol. They were launched in 1958 as a thinner and higher-performing alternative to the Marvel line produced by Suwa Seikosha.
Water-Resistant Seiko Cronos Models
Just a year later, in 1959, Seiko introduced its first “waterproof” wristwatches on the Japanese market, offering 50 m water resistance. The Cronos Waterproof ref. J13028 was released alongside the Laurel Alpinist model. The market demand for waterproof watches suitable for sports and outdoor activities was growing, and Seiko had to keep up with the times. For reference, the first true diving watch, the legendary 62MAS, was introduced in April 1965. The waterproof Cronos line is considered a “pre-diver” line. It includes many models, some of which have the “Water Proof” inscription on the dial, “Water 50 Proof” or “Sea Horse.”
Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990
Today, we have a slightly dressier version of the already quite dressy model J13046. The case is just as hefty, but the case back doesn't screw down. It simply needs to be pressed firmly onto the case until it clicks. This implies less water resistance, and instead of the “Water 50 Proof” inscription, the dial only bears the “Water Proof” signature. The crown with the “SW” signature remains unchanged.
What I particularly like about these watches is the additional line added under the beautiful Seiko Cronos branding. “Self Dater” means an additional dial aperture at the “3 o'clock” position with a small but bright date disc. I like the round style of the wide printed numbers, which are perfectly readable through the magnifier.
I'm sure my watch retains the original glass, which is a big bonus. When looking at the watch directly, you won't see any blemishes on the glass. However, at a certain angle, you can see hundreds of tiny scratches that have formed over the years. It's possible to find a NOS Plexi replacement, but I don't intend to do so. I like what I have.
Balanced Attire
The sunburst effect on the dial is subtle, but you will see it if you look closely. It contrasts beautifully with the polished applied indices, which match the almost microscopic print at the edge of the dial at the bottom. To the left of the sixth index, you can read “Made in Japan,” and to the right, the reference number plus “AD.” The hands in all models are the same, but the applied indices offer some nice variations. I recommend studying them carefully to find the ones you like best.
Manual-Winding Movement
The number of jewels also varies slightly, but if there are 21, you are getting a reliable and quality movement. Seiko Cronos movements are known for their high standards and accuracy. There is no need for automatic winding in these watches. On the contrary, the clean manual-winding movement emphasizes the dressy nature of the watch.
Case and Wrist Presence
Despite the case diameter being just under 37 mm, the presence of the Seiko Cronos Self Dater on the wrist is undeniable. This is due to the wide lugs, which have significant faceting. It's important to note that the lug width is 19 mm, so you should take the time to choose the right strap for this watch.
Final Thoughts
Interestingly, I acquired my Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 in Europe at a low price. I've had them for about five years, but I don't wear them as often as they deserve. Over the past few days, I've worn them on my wrist and have been pleased with how perfectly they are made. Some of my watches feel tiny to me. This is not the case with the Self Dater, which has a bright presence but quickly hides under a cuff. If you know someone who wants to hop on the vintage watch train, the Self Dater will delight him or her. With a budget of just a few hundred dollars, there are many worse options. The Seiko Cronos Self Dater strikes the right balance of style, quality, and undeniable Japanese individuality. Happy hunting!