While the Swiss often lead the way in the world of watchmaking, they aren't the only name in the game.
In fact, the Japanese have much to be proud of in this craft. Seiko actually invented the quartz movement - an innovation that forever changed the watch landscape. And that's just one of the many things associated with watchmaking that the eastern island country has released.
The Japanese watch landscape may not be as extensive as the Swiss, but there are still plenty of brands producing impressive watches that call Japan home. Their offerings cover a wide range of prices, styles, functionalities, and more. Below we've compiled a list of the most important brands worth talking about when discussing Japanese watches.
Best Japanese Watch Brands
History of Watchmaking in Japan
Watchmaking appeared in Japan in the mid-1500s with Christian missionaries who taught locals to make clocks and other instruments. However, due to a long period of national isolation, it wasn't until 1872 that the country adopted the solar calendar, changing how clockwork was mechanized. Two decades later, the Osaka Tokei Manufacturing Company, under American engineer leadership, began producing pocket watches with a lever escapement. Others followed their example. Wristwatches began to be produced in the 1920s until World War II, when production completely ceased.
The industry and the country recovered, and in 1956, after automatic watches began to appear, wristwatches were considered a necessary fashion accessory. In 1969, Seiko introduced the world's first quartz watch, the Quartz Astron 35SQ, revolutionizing the industry and nearly sinking Swiss mechanical watchmaking as a whole. Today, Japanese watchmaking is a major industry, with some of the finest watches coming from the Land of the Rising Sun.
Japanese Watches vs. Swiss Watches
Japanese watches have long been labeled as “cheaper” than their Swiss counterparts. Nevertheless, fine luxury watches can be found in Japan. It can also be said that the Japanese industry has perfected creating luxury watches at accessible prices without sacrificing quality. While Swiss brands may be generally better in terms of precision, Japanese brands have more advanced technology, allowing them to produce more watches in a shorter timeframe.
Casio
Casio GSHOCK GWM5610U1
Casio helped change the world with its quartz watches in the 70s and 80s, and also started the enduring G-SHOCK brand.
Casio has done an excellent job, especially in recent years, reminding us that watchmaking doesn't always have to be so serious. Retro reissues and fun callbacks have become more stylish and expressive, with craftsmanship never entering the conversation. However, in the realm of wristwatches, Casio remains an important name, paving the way for digital watches in the 1970-80s (have you ever heard of a calculator watch?) and having some of the most popular models on the planet at that time. In the 80s, the brand also launched its G-SHOCK line, which emphasized durability and timeless style that, frankly, hasn't changed much in 40 years. The impressive range of G-SHOCK watches, which can be worn everywhere, has largely overshadowed newer Casio models, which mainly focus on affordability and nostalgia, and we don't mind that.
- Year Founded: 1945
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Sporty, Retro, Field
- Popular Models: ProTrek, G-SHOCK 2100, G-SHOCK 5600
- Price Range: $30 to $5,000
- Model: G-SHOCK GWM5610-1
Citizen
Citizen has become one of the world's largest watch manufacturers, but also deserves recognition for its innovative Eco-Drive movements and tool watches.
Don't let its ubiquity fool you, Citizen is a watch company to be reckoned with. Despite the Citizen Group owning luxury brands like Bulova, Frederique Constant, and Alpina, the Citizen brand itself offers affordable watches with serious craftsmanship. Founded in 1918, the Tokyo-based company specializes in a range of watches, both quartz and mechanical, but became legendary for developing its own Eco-Drive technology, which powers quartz watches with not only solar but any light, so they never need a battery. One of our favorite Eco-Drive models is the Promaster Dive, which is not only affordable but boasts some unique purpose-built iterations like the Aqualand, with features like rapid ascent alarms and depth memory.
- Year Founded: 1918
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Sporty, Casual, Dress
- Popular Models: Promaster Dive, Promaster Skyhawk, PCAT
- Price Range: $200 to $5,000
- Model: Promaster Dive
Credor
Once a Seiko subsidiary producing watches exclusively from precious metals, these are now some of the country's most luxurious and complex.
Credor, meaning “golden peak” in French, was launched by Seiko in 1974 as a line of watches made from precious metals, and in 1980 it released the world's thinnest movement at the time. Today, this model remains less known than Seiko's most famous creation: Grand Seiko (more on that below). Continuing to be developed for the Japanese market with a Japanese aesthetic, Credor has moved beyond its initial designs and now uses materials like stainless steel. Additionally, compared to its Seiko siblings and even Grand Seiko, Credor watches retail for much more. Prices range from $9,000 to $300,000 and above for the most popular models.
- Year Founded: 1974
- Location: Iwate, Japan
- Style: Dress, Luxury
- Popular Models: Masterpiece, Goldfeather
- Price Range: $9,000 to $300,000+
- Model: Masterpiece GBLT999
Grand Seiko
GS, a branch of Seiko, produces some of the industry's finest movements and its dials keep you coming back for more.
Grand Seiko sits at the intersection of Japanese watches and luxury brands, offering a plethora of memorable watches equipped with some of the best movements in the world. Recently, the line's flagship Heritage 44GS watches have been unparalleled in inspiration, drawing design from its own Japanese heritage and the forested environment surrounding the studio in the mountainous Iwate Prefecture. Launched in 1960 as a sub-brand of Seiko, which sought to compete with high-end Swiss manufacturers, Grand Seiko became independent in 2017, thereafter creating its own identity. Its calling cards are Spring Drive movements, beautiful dial finishes, and the famous Zaratsu case polishing technique.
- Year Founded: 1960
- Location: Iwate, Japan
- Style: Dress, Sport
- Popular Models: 44GS, 9S
- Price Range: $5,500 to $80,000
- Model: 44GS SLGH013
Knot
Knot specializes in custom-made watches - from dials to straps and clasps, at very affordable prices.
The world of smartwatches is quite convenient when it comes to customization. From case material to strap type and home screen - if you're determined, you can create numerous aesthetic solutions for your wrist. The world of mechanical watches hasn't reached that level yet. Unless you look at Knot, a company founded in 2014 and a leader in customizable watches. By choosing one of the beautiful dial cases, you can select from dozens of straps and buckles. A glance at Knot dials might make you think they would cost you several thousand dollars. However, thanks to the company's commitment to its mission - to make quality watches accessible to everyone - some can be purchased for just over $100, while higher-end watches are just over $1,000.
- Year Founded: 2014
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Dress, Sport, Minimalism
- Popular Models: AT-38, Urushi
- Price Range: $120 to $1,100
- Model: AT-38
Kurono
Beautiful Japanese Kurono watches, though hard to get, are an affordable alternative to luxury models.
While most Japanese watches embody the artistry of this culture, most can somewhat blend with their contemporaries from other countries worldwide. However, looking at some of Kurono's wonderful watches, it becomes clear that they are distinctly Japanese. Beyond simple design, the dials often feature traditional Japanese textures or patterns, and the brand name (and sometimes the model name) is always written in Japanese script. Released in 1997, Kurono aims to be an affordable luxury watch alternative with similar allure. Unfortunately, these wonderful watches sell out rather quickly.
- Year Founded: 1997
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Dress, Sport
- Popular Models: Grand Series, Classic Series
- Price Range: $1,500 to $4,000
- Model: Grand Akane
Minase
Besides GS, Minase has some of the most impressive dial designs, with a small annual production that enhances quality.
Apart from Grand Seiko, Minase is likely the best in the country at creating beautiful dials that pay homage to Japanese culture, such as the Uruga watches with brush strokes or the Horizon with an island-style square case, featuring an innovative design with a domed dial and hands that rotate from a point above the glass corners. Founded in 2005, Minase is a bit more mainstream than some other watchmakers, and its production capacity is usually less than 500 pieces per year. Not afraid to nod to Swiss precision, Minase uses ETA-based movements in its watches.
- Year Founded: 2005
- Location: Akita, Japan
- Style: Dress
- Popular Models: Uruga, Horizon
- Price Range: $3,000 to $8,000
- Model: Uruga
Mirco
Combining vintage with modern technology, Mirco succeeds by ensuring originality in each of its models.
The name Mirco comes from combining the words “future” and “past” in Japanese (“mirai” and “kako”). Specializing in mid-century style watches, Mirco stands out by not focusing on just one model. This allows the brand to incorporate its own unique design into each model, such as the Type 02 chronograph or the Type 03 diver with unique coloring, equipped with automatic movements from Seiko. Established in 2019, this promising microbrand has only two model lines, but Mirco is definitely one to watch in the coming years.
- Year Founded: 2019
- Location: Fukushima, Japan
- Style: Vintage Style, Chronograph, Diver
- Popular Models: Type 02, Type 03
- Price Range: $1,500 to $2,000
- Model: Type 02
Naoya Hida
Don't let its rarity fool you: Naoya Hida has some of the most beautiful and meticulously crafted watches in the world.
We would be lying if we said that watches from the cult microbrand Naoya Hida are easy to obtain. Only 15 pieces of each model are released per year, and it can take up to a year between order and delivery. The Tokyo-based company started in 2019, focusing on old-school looks and simplicity. Its namesake founder has credentials from Ralph Lauren to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin, evident in its meticulous design and understated aesthetics. Despite using different fonts for numbers, the watch series still maintains a unified identity with its vintage style and recessed inner rings. Additionally, the brand specializes in modified manual-wind ETA movements.
- Year Founded: 2019
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Dress, Vintage Style
- Popular Models: TYPE 4A, TYPE2C, TYPE 3B
- Price Range: ~$20,000
- Model: NH TYPE 4A
Orient
Orient offers some of the best value watches in the entire industry, including elite Orient Star models.
Although Orient became independent in 2009 when it became part of Seiko, its history dates back to 1950 when it was founded in Tokyo. Since then, it has become a gateway to the world of automatic watches and is known for its affordable mechanical watches, priced far above their cost. More impressively, Orient uses in-house movements, which power the brand's affordable divers. While most of the brand's offerings can be purchased around $200, it also has a more elite brand, Orient Star, which produces more complex watches with features like Moon Phases and “open heart” mechanisms, often priced around $3,000.
- Year Founded: 1950
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Dress, Diving, Sport
- Popular Models: Bambino, Mako, Kamasu
- Price Range: $200 to $3,000
- Model: Bambino
Seiko
Seiko is simply the godfather of modern Japanese watchmaking, and it must be included in a list of Japanese watches.
For those unfamiliar with the difference between Seiko and Grand Seiko, it might seem like we're doing a double dip. However, the more upscale Grand Seiko, which was once a branch of its former parent company, became an independent brand in 2017. Design-wise, there is also a significant difference between them. While GS is known for its beautiful high-end dress watches, Seiko has become a leader in the sports watch category, especially thanks to its Prospex divers and Seiko 5 Sports line. However, its Presage dress watches shouldn't be overlooked either. Simply put, Seiko is one of the most renowned watch companies in the world, regardless of origin, with a history dating back to 1881 and even claiming the invention of the quartz wristwatch and the release (possibly) of the first automatic chronograph, both in 1969.
- Year Founded: 1881
- Location: Tokyo, Japan
- Style: Dress, Diving, Sport
- Popular Models: Prospex, Prestige, 5 Sports
- Price Range: $200 to $7,000
- Model: Prospex SPB383