Creating a list of the greatest icons in the watch world is an easy task.
While there might be debates about what truly makes a watch iconic, most would agree that such models have defined entire categories and have had a lasting impact on the modern watch landscape. However, this is not the topic we wish to discuss. In this new series of articles, we focus on watches that remain in the shadows of true icons. While they are often appreciated, they never reach the status of cult models. Nevertheless, this does not mean they lack fascinating stories. This is why we aim to tell you about shadow icons - less obvious but equally interesting options.
The Importance of Icons in the Watch World
Undoubtedly, icons have earned their status for very valid reasons. Try one of them, and you'll understand why these watches are so good. This is often an experience based on design, engineering, and the brand's reputation. But, above all, this status is related to the model's history and its influence. I've seen many times how people wear iconic watches and remain in complete awe. Much of this admiration is connected to the story behind the watch. There's something special in these icons that can be felt and cannot be copied. However, such stories have been told many times.
Life in the Shadow of a Category
Often these icons simply appeared before the models discussed in the article. A great example is the Royal Oak. These watches marked the beginning of the luxury sports watch category in stainless steel. The Nautilus, of course, belongs to the same category but wasn't the first. Nevertheless, its story, associated with Gérald Genta, and Patek Philippe's rich heritage give it grandeur and iconic status. It can be said with confidence that these two models are icons, while the other watches in this category remain in their shadow. While defining the category could be the basis for this series of articles, we chose a different approach.
We will look at various brands' collections to identify their icons and find models that are not always obvious, standing in the shadow of the greats. For example, even if the Royal Oak and Nautilus are considered icons of their genres, Vacheron Constantin 222 maintains a cult status in the brand's long history. Therefore, the shadow icon in the brand's collection can be considered the Overseas. These watches are inspired by the classic 222, and while they have become the foundation of the catalog, they will never achieve the same iconic significance for Vacheron Constantin as the 222. Most know the story of the 222, and we want to examine the history of the Overseas.
Focus on Less Obvious Choices
I hope this explains our goal. We are not going to discuss the presumed iconic status of watches or collections. This is not an attempt to prove that derivative designs cannot become icons. A great example is the Submariner and all subsequent models. Can these diver watches not be considered icons by default? Such questions are interesting, but we do not address them in this article.
For this series of articles, it's simple: we want to draw attention to less obvious options, alternatives to iconic models of certain brands, and delve into their history. If the stories of icons are known to many, then shadow icons have their fascinating narratives. With this explanation, let us proceed to the first list of shadow icons.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas vs. Historiques 222
Let's start with a pair of watches I've already mentioned. In 2022, Vacheron Constantin presented the Historiques 222 - a modern replica of the classic 222 model from the 1970s. However, the Overseas has long been part of the collection, released since 1996. Thus, its presence in the brand's catalog significantly exceeds the production period of the original 222, produced from 1977 to 1984. Despite this, watch enthusiasts consider the 222 a true classic. The Overseas is inspired by it, and the 222 appeared just a year after the Nautilus, linking it to the origins of the category, which became one of the most popular in the watch world.
I have a special connection to the 222, and I believe Vacheron Constantin did an excellent job with the Historiques 222. Following the initial gold model, the stainless steel version introduced in 2025 quickly became one of my favorite watches among all brands. However, in the past couple of years, we saw a number of new Overseas models showcasing the depth and versatility of the collection. Especially this year, a year after the brand's big anniversary, Vacheron showed the full power of the Overseas. With the stunning platinum Self-Winding Ultra-Thin model, the brand introduced a stylish version of its modern sports watches.
Overseas Evolution Under the Spotlight
Furthermore, we were delighted by the impressive Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points - a great successor to the highly acclaimed Overseas Dual Time "Everest" from 2021. This model takes the Overseas into an even more sporty category. Finally, the impressive Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models underline the significance of the entire Overseas series. But will it ever achieve the status of the 222, which inspired it? We know it won't. Regardless of which of the two models you prefer - some on the WatchTested team choose the Overseas - there's no disputing the difference in status.
Nevertheless, it inspires us to focus on the Overseas and trace its lineage since 1996. Over the past three decades, the Overseas has become a very significant line for Vacheron Constantin. Moreover, it has become a favorite model for those who do not want to choose obvious options in the genre. Although there are many options in the category of modern luxury sports watches, having the Overseas on the wrist with the beautiful Vacheron Constantin inscription on the dial and the proudly placed Maltese cross above it sets it apart from many others. That's why it's our first choice as the ideal shadow icon.
Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is not just a benchmark for modern diver watches. For a long time, it was considered the most famous luxury model in the world. Most are familiar with the Submariner's history: from references to numerous dial variations and caliber updates - all of this is well documented. In the shadow of the Submariner's success stands the Sea-Dweller.
The Submariner's more extreme sibling is a favorite of the WatchTested team and firmly leads my personal list of desired watches. There are many reasons for our love of the Sea-Dweller, and we've written about them more than once.
If you're familiar with us, you know we're talking about the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. But as a series standing in the shadow of the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller has many interesting stories: from the first prototypes ("Single Red" Sea-Dwellers), which lacked a helium escape valve, to the latest 40-mm model ref. 116600 - an excellent alternative to the Submariner ref. 116610 with a massive Super Case.
Everyone understands that the Sea-Dweller will never achieve the same iconic status as the Submariner. But the nicknames alone of the different Sea-Dweller models deserve a deep dive into the history of these professional diver watches by Rolex. Why not learn more about the Double Reds, Great White, or Triple Six? The Sea-Dweller is yet another magnificent shadow icon worth exploring.
Zenith El Primero A384 vs. El Primero A386
Another bright example is the Zenith El Primero A384, which will always stand in the shadow of the much more popular A386. Most will immediately understand which two watches are being discussed, although in Zenith's modern collection, they have different names: the first is the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384, the second is the Zenith Chronomaster Original.
If ever the status of two watches was clearly divided by the brand, it is these models. The A386 is considered "the original," whereas the A384 is "the revival." I completely understand this choice and have no complaints about these names. For me, they will forever remain the A384 and A386 - two references that were part of the original trio of El Primero models introduced in January 1969 as the first automatic chronographs.
Much Lies Hidden in Zenith's Rich History
It's easy to understand why the A386 is considered an icon. It's far less controversial than the A384 with its angular case exuding a 70s vibe. The more rounded A386 case is easier to love, and the iconic dial design with its three-color counters makes it even more appealing. But if you delve into the history of the A384, many interesting facts emerge. One of them is Zenith's decision to create a trio of El Primero models in 1969, two of which had the same angular case. It's impossible to discuss the A384's story without touching on the A385. Did Zenith believe that the A384 and A385 would become the main hits? This question deserves an answer.
Furthermore, it's worth exploring how Zenith over time attempted to tell the great story of its classic El Primero, including controversial versions of the classic. Finally, the modern Chronomaster Revival series showcases the enormous potential of the A384. It turns out to be the perfect canvas for creative variations that demonstrate the power of Zenith's creative team. This makes the A384 another shadow icon worthy of attention.
Searching for New Shadow Icons
The examples provided are just three cases that we attribute to "shadow icons." There are many other models that could illustrate this concept. Among them are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore vs. Royal Oak, Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox vs. Reverso, Panerai Submersible vs. Radiomir. And this is far from a complete list of interesting models. Therefore, we want to reach out to you: which watches would you define as shadow icons? Or maybe the concept itself needs rethinking? Share your opinion in the comments - we look forward to your suggestions!