It's been nearly a decade since some of us have been waiting for TAG Heuer to place its affordable tourbillon chronograph in a more elegant and understated case.
Initially presented in 2016, the Heuer-02T model was a futuristic, bulky, sports chronograph equipped with one of the most expensive tourbillon movements by any major Swiss watch manufacturer. In 2023, as part of the 60th anniversary celebration of the TAG Heuer Carrera, this initial concept was transformed into the TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph, which now features a new version with a teal dial.
Here are the most important details that have changed over the eight years since the debut of the Heuer-02T (or Heuer02T) by TAG Heuer. First, the movement is now called TH20-09, although the brand sometimes still refers to it as Heuer02T. The caliber TH20-00, including this TH20-09, is an evolution of the Heuer02T. It is still produced at the TAG Heuer factory in Chevenez, but now the warranty has been extended from two to five years, the rotor winds in both directions through a noise-dampening bearing and gear transmission, and the winding speed is "one of the fastest on the market."
Additionally, the model features a new rotor design, along with notable changes to the overall aesthetics of the caliber: Instead of the dark, futuristic, modern black coating of the Heuer02 and Heuer02T calibers, TAG Heuer opts for a more classic decor, including matte and striped surface finishes, as well as traditional rhodium plating of the movement.
The power reserve and operating frequency remain unchanged - 65 hours and 4 Hz, respectively. The first indicator is 15 hours less than the Heuer02 model without a tourbillon (TH20-00), which is almost certainly due to the additional weight of the tourbillon: Perhaps, the TH20-09 could tick for 80 hours after full winding, but during the last 15 hours, the mainspring simply could not transmit enough torque through the heavy tourbillon to the escapement to ensure reliable timekeeping.
Incidentally, TAG Heuer appears to have quietly abandoned the COSC chronometer certification during this update. In 2016 and every year since then, the Heuer02T model has garnered applause not only for its aggressive pricing but also because it effectively embarrassed all the historic brands that offered 3-4-5 times more expensive tourbillons in pursuit of precision, without backing up those claims with actual facts.
The reason for their reluctance to present their tourbillons was at least partially because, in reality, regulating and fine-tuning the tourbillon to ensure high-precision timekeeping is an absolute pain, and many understood that they could continue to set prices at 50-100 thousand dollars for tourbillons without any proof of accuracy.
TAG Heuer was one of the few to create and actually mass-produce a tourbillon that truly worked well. This departure from proven chronometric characteristics is especially strange, given that the TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph with a teal dial is significantly more expensive than the original, COSC-certified model: MSRP increased from $15,950 to $24,050.
And if that hasn't been cause for puzzlement, the TAG Heuer website still lists the "old" Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon model (reference CAR5A90.BH0742) with a COSC-certified movement, ceramic case, and full ceramic bracelet (!) for $22,850. That's a lot of watch for that price.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph model with a "teal" dial may justify its somewhat inflated price through its attractive design. Watch design is a purely subjective matter, but it can be argued that the "glassbox" execution - with an almost complete abandonment of the traditional bezel - combined with the teal dial, long Carrera lugs, applied hour markers, and massive tourbillon at the "6 o'clock" position create a stunning appearance. At 42 mm wide, the watch looks more mature and elegant than earlier Heuer02T models. Although the watch thickness remains 14.33 mm, the massive domed glass and impressive dial depth make up for it to a great extent.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph (reference CBS5011.FC6566) priced at $24,050 is a very expensive proposition, yet it remains one of the most competitive among luxury tourbillon watches from any major Swiss manufacturer. It's strange that competitors have not managed to catch up with TAG Heuer, even in what seems like a decade. For more detailed information, you can visit the brand's website.