The Millesime collection by Raymond Weil caught us off guard when it was introduced last year. Occasionally, a watch comes along that just works.
The design and execution fit together perfectly. Millesime is exactly such a watch. So when Raymond Weil announced new models, I was eager to try them.
Today I'm testing the 35mm automatic model, the 39.5mm moon phase model, and the new green dial Small Seconds model on a bracelet. These models will be on sale in September.
Raymond Weil Millesime
If you are not yet familiar with the Raymond Weil Millesime model, let me tell you a bit of history. Millésime translates from French as “vintage,” and these watches certainly look the part. However, if you follow my publications, you might know that I suffer from a slight fatigue from vintage watches. I'm almost done with all these faux patinas and one-to-one historical replicas. Millesime, however, takes a different approach, and I really like it.
Raymond Weil uses a technique called “evolutionary design.” It starts with a historical concept and then asks how it would look if drawn today. The result, if done correctly, is more original and less sentimental than most direct vintage reissues. This approach frees the design, inspired by the past, from quirks.
If you look at the Raymond Weil Millesime, you will see a classic watch, not a vintage one. They are extremely clean, simple, and yet distinctive. Of course, they resemble sector dial watches from brands like Longines and Jaeger-LeCoultre, but at the same time, they are noticeably different. RW's choice of a case with beautiful facets, non-blued hands, and sharp white lume gives the old-school concept modern appeal and relevance.
35mm Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic
Now, let's move on to the watches in front of me. First, I want to talk about the 35mm version with centrally located seconds. At just under 10mm thick and 42mm lug-to-lug, these are small watches. I like this because the size perfectly harmonizes with the design. The dial has less negative space, and everything looks more compact.
The RW4200 caliber can be seen through the sapphire window on the case back. If the movement seems familiar, it's because it's based on the Sellita SW200 family. This is good because they are some of the most durable and reliable ébauche calibers in the business. In the RW version, the power reserve is 41 hours. The accuracy is not specified, so expect something fairly standard.
Water resistance is 50 meters, which is quite sufficient for a watch of this style. The hour and minute hands with luminescent coating are set on a beautiful multi-textured sector dial. I like the 35mm version the most because the dial looks best at this scale. The flat vertically brushed bezel is narrower than on the 39.5mm models, and that's the only thing I would change. I like the narrower bezel because it gives the larger models a more muscular look. The price of the 35mm version is 1,695 euros.
39.5mm Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase
The second new model is housed in a 39.5mm case of the original Millesime model. The thickness of this case is just over 10mm, and the length is 46mm. While it remains quite wearable, the watch looks significantly larger and more modern.
Adding the moon phase to the Millesime watch makes a lot of sense. Firstly, it fits this style beautifully. Moreover, the dial is already perfectly balanced for an additional sub-dial at the “6 o'clock” position, as the original model had a subseconds marking. The “Automatic” line remains under a restrained moon dial with a face painted on the moon.
Inside is another version of the Raymond Weil caliber from the Sellita 200 family, the RW4280. Except for the custom-made rotor, it is undecorated. I understand why you might lament this, but I think the bare look of the caliber suits the watch well. I wouldn't mind a fully steel case back either. The moon phase indicator adds visual interest, albeit very subtly. The moon dial gives the design a bit of seriousness, which is quite nice. The cost of these Millesime Moon Phase watches is 2,295 euros.
Green Dial and Bracelet
Finally, we have the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds model with a new green dial and bracelet. However, from an aesthetic standpoint, the bracelet and dial radically change the character of the watch.
Starting with the dial, you get the usual scheme but covered in a lacquer of acidic or laminar green color. Green is notoriously difficult to get right for watch dials. On the one hand, Raymond Weil has managed to find a very versatile color. It's easy to match with clothing and suitable for daily wear. At the same time, I feel the color would be more appealing with slightly less yellow in it. Of course, this is a subjective matter.
Moving on to the bracelet, we see a classic five-row stainless steel bracelet with female end links that maintain the watch's overall length of 46mm. The bracelet is fairly thick and feels robust. The butterfly clasp with two buttons matches the style of the watch. However, it must be closed in a specific order, which might seem inconvenient to some. The Millesime watch wears well on the bracelet. Unfortunately, there are no quick-release mechanisms or micro-adjustments, so it's a kind of “set and forget” option. At the time of writing, we haven't yet settled on the price for this model.
A Good Addition to the Millesime Line
I think these three new models show that Raymond Weil is serious about the Millesime line. And it's quite justified, as it seems to excite people about the brand. The new models demonstrate the line's potential in terms of sizes, colors, and complications.
My favorite, as you already guessed, is the 35mm automatic. I feel it lets the design sing, and I love its understated, old-school presence on the wrist. The bracelet model is perhaps my least favorite. This also suggests that the gray leather straps look simply superb on the others. However, if you want more versatility, the bracelet is a great option.
For me, it's interesting to see what the future holds for the Raymond Weil Millesime line. It certainly has potential, as evidenced by these three solid offerings.
What do you think of the Raymond Weil Millesime collection and these three new versions? Tell us about it on our Telegram channel!