Amusingly, I found myself in a similar situation last year.
After recently visiting the Watches and Wonders exhibition, I discovered that some of the watches that caught my attention the most during the week of releases were not actually presented at the exhibition. Instead, they were showcased on the Time To Watches website. Behrens, one of my favorite brands, released new watches in a new collection. I haven't hidden my appreciation for Behrens. I've waxed lyrical about my love for the modern models of this brand and their excellent value for money. Given the hyper-modern appearance of the 20G model and the futuristic tendencies of the Perigee model, I could forgive you if you thought the brand might be a one-trick pony in this regard. However, when Behrens announced the new Kung Fu, it proved otherwise. The traditional yet modern design shows that Behrens still values old traditions.
Before diving into the details of the new Kung Fu watch, it's worth noting that this release marks the introduction of a new collection in the brand's catalog. The Master line will now sit alongside the Original and Inventor collections. It represents the brand's flagship offerings in horological art and includes collaborations with independent watchmakers from around the world. The Behrens Kung Fu watch is a collaboration with a self-taught Chinese watchmaker named Qian GuoBiao. Relatively unknown outside his native China, GuoBiao is known for repairing high-end complicated watches. The Kung Fu watch represents a blend of GuoBiao's horological skills with Behrens' production capabilities and design leadership. It's a wonderful harmony, and looking at some images of watches under the GuoBiao brand, you can see the evolution of the Behrens Kung Fu.
Choose Your Fighter
Let's start with the basic information about Kung Fu. At first glance, the case seems familiar. Resembling the cases of other watches by the brand, the Behrens Kung Fu differs from them in several key parameters. First, the previous diameter of 42 mm gives way to a more pleasing size of 39.5 mm. Secondly, the Kung Fu is available in titanium or platinum cases. In hand, I preferred the titanium version due to its lightweight properties. I'm not a fan of precious metals in watches because of their weight. However, RJ might dispute my words, as his penchant for gold is well-known in these parts.
On paper, the thickness of the watch is 11.4 mm. However, the wearing experience may differ. Most of the watch's thickness comes from the box-shaped sapphire glass. Meanwhile, the watch case remains very thin on the wrist. As a result, the watch looks and feels thinner than its dimensions suggest. The large dome of sapphire glass also allows viewing the watch dial from the side. Why? One of Behrens' main design principles is the use of depth. This Kung Fu is no different from others: one of the elements of the new proprietary BM03 manual winding caliber makes depth and horizontal movement part of its essence.
Everyone Fought in Kung Fu Style
I am, of course, referring to the power reserve indicator located at the “11 o’clock” position on the dial. Such a feature is not a plus for many collectors, but hear me out. This model is somewhat special because it is dual-axis. The aesthetics are inspired by “plum blossom stakes” used in traditional Chinese martial arts. A unique aspect is the rise and fall of the hand. When the mainspring is wound, the hand rises, passing along two axes through step-height stakes. It’s hard to grasp the essence of the movement from still images, so I recommend viewing this animated GIF. It's quite an impressive concept. Is it necessary? No. Is it overly elaborate? Yes. Is it beautiful? Also yes.
The additional hour and minute dial is located to the right of the power reserve indicator. It features a raised peripheral part with polished and applied numerals and markers. At the “6 o’clock” position, you will notice a small red inscription. This is actually the signature of Qian GuoBiao. The hands on the dial, as well as the power reserve hand and markers, have impeccable hand-polished mirror finishes. Their shape is inspired by the prismatic tips of arrows from crossbows of the Qin dynasty period (221-206 BC). The same shape is used for the power reserve hand and an intriguing device connected to the balance wheel at the bottom. These shapes are very noticeable to the eye, but in a good way. Their emphasized 3D form perfectly matches the Kung Fu's emphasis on depth.
Moving down the dial, we find the balance wheel prominently positioned in the lower left part, and another arrow-shaped hand protruding from it. The balance wheel is clear enough, but what is this mysterious hand for? It's a regulating mechanism for the balance and escapement.
The hand is in a small grooved channel (again, inspired by the crossbow). By adjusting the wheel at the bottom, the watchmaker controls a unique spring-loaded mechanism under the dial that moves the hand up and down, adjusting the accuracy of the balance wheel. Obviously, this is not a task for the watch owner, but it’s a beautiful way to showcase a necessary function. Beauty should be seen, not pushed to the background.
Behrens Kung Fu Watches Proudly Inspired by Chinese Heritage
The layout of the Kung Fu watch dial was designed with Qin dynasty influences in mind. Chinese people of that era used coins with a unique design. These coins combine a round shape with a square hole in the center. The design of the Kung Fu watch dial uses this idea and applies it to the four main functions (hour/minute indicator, power reserve indicator, balance wheel, and regulation mechanism). In doing so, it managed to combine various elements to mimic a square shape in a round case.
Turning the watch over, Behrens reveals several surprises on the back. Two bridges hold the fourth wheel and the escape wheel in place. A large red synthetic ruby is mounted on the back of the balance wheel. The ruby also bears the laser-engraved signature of Qian GuoBiao. However, most of the area is occupied by a large plate with embossed engraving. The case back is beautiful and equally well-finished, but the dial is the main star of the show.
A Note on the Sensible Strap Choice
Too often, the watch strap becomes just an afterthought. However, we all know that the strap makes the watch. A poor-quality strap or even an unfortunate color choice can quickly ruin the impression. For the Kung Fu watch, Behrens opted for a gray alligator leather strap. Made from American Mississippi alligator skin, this hand-stitched strap was a perfect fit for these watches. I'll be honest: I'm not a big fan of matching leather straps to the dial color, especially when it comes to gray shades, as they wash out very quickly. However, the gray allows the dial functions to take center stage. It's a bold move that paid off. Alternatively, I might have chosen a dark blue alligator or ostrich leg leather strap.
Kung Fu Model Grandly Introduces the Brand’s New Master Collection
Behrens will release only 99 pieces of the Kung Fu. After all, considering the amount of hand-finishing on each piece, waiting for the watch release will take some time. Nine pieces will have a platinum case and strap buckle. However, if platinum is your thing, don’t rush to snatch up these nine pieces in the first few days. The remaining 90 pieces will have a titanium case and buckle. The platinum versions that have been sold fetched a hefty price of $28,500 USD, making the Behrens Kung Fu the most expensive watch to date. However, brand collectors did not balk. The titanium versions are priced at $17,700 USD, which is also a significant figure, but clearly does not deter the brand’s customers and collectors.
Of course, these are expensive watches, and their price has significantly risen compared to previous models. It's important to discuss this, as it's a large sum, even for luxury watches. I expect some comments will state that Chinese watchmaking is “inferior” and “not worth” such prices. I will never understand why some people are dismissive of Chinese craftsmanship. Quality work is quality work, regardless of where it is done. This is not mass production, not low-end watches. The hand-finishing is meticulous and at an exceptional level. The proprietary mechanisms are designed and manufactured specifically for these watches, and only 99 pieces will be made. If you look at Swiss counterparts, you can see that these prices are far from unreasonable. Of course, true value is always in the eye of the beholder!
What do you think of the new Behrens Kung Fu, and how do you rate the brand's evolution over the last few releases? I would love to hear your thoughts on the Telegram channel. If you want to learn more about Behrens and Kung Fu, visit the brand's official website.