It is undeniable that we are in the midst of a retro-reissue whirlwind.
Some of these are beautiful, poignant talismans capable of lifting spirits, while others are just cash cows. But if you love asymmetric modernism, the architectural futurism of the Toledano & Chan B/1 is a much-needed breath of fresh air.
This year at the Watches and Wonders exhibition, most watches were altered, perhaps with a new bracelet or dial/bezel color. Look at what's happening in the automotive world: brands are outdoing each other in the search for future design. Surely the watch industry will follow this path in 2024? The people at Toledano & Chan believe so and are moving in this direction.
Toledano & Chan
This new brand has transformed the spirit of '70s chic into an angular specimen of futurism, and I'm here for it. For most Instagram enthusiasts, Phil Toledano is synonymous with his alter ego @misterenthusiast, his love for cars, and the unfortunately defunct Viva Bastardo podcast. As a dapper visual artist who adores cars and watches, he easily draws people into his universe of quirky coolness. Last year, I spoke with Phil about his crazy custom Rolex creations. His collecting habits also played a role in my desire to acquire the Otsuka Lotec No.7.5, but that's another story. Last year, I saw a prototype of the B/1 on a fuzzy Zoom call, but now it's a reality. These watches are the brainchild of Phil and watch designer Alfred Chan, and they are unlike anything else.
Background
Last week, I had the pleasure of delving deep into their mental space, and they shared the inspiration behind the B/1. I asked Phil and Alfred if this is a way forward from the now overly popular trend of retro-integrated bracelets, and Phil responded:
“We decided to create something for ourselves that we like, and we hope people share our passion. Of course, it's inspired by our love for integrated bracelets, but it's incredibly important to expand this language and push the idea forward. If it's a pure reissue, then it's lazy if you're not trying to create something new.”
As seen in the image above, it is about an architectural structure in the form of a brutalist box for watches made of composite concrete.
Phil explains: “We fell in love with the idea of sculptural watches. It seemed like no one was doing this, and I still believe that no one makes sculptural watches unless you're buying something 30-40 years old. So hopefully, we've pushed this idea forward.”
For me, this is connected to the fact that on Phil's Instagram account, you can see his love for the incredibly elegant Piaget watches from the '70s and the parade watches of Patek Philippe with Beta quartz movements. And this includes his deep love for the familiar (next to the B/1) asymmetric Rolex Midas.
B/1 - Fresh, Asymmetric, and Fiercely Angular.
At first glance, you see an almost industrial, sharply chamfered shape with distinction. The B/1 model is made of matte 904L stainless steel on a fully integrated cuff bracelet that stands out from the rest. With rare exceptions, integrated bracelets remain an appendage. No matter how elegant they are, most still feel and look like an addition to the watch head. Except for the Piaget Polo 79 reissue, no one seems to have moved forward. And aside from Moser with the Streamliner or more jewelry creations from Bvlgari and Cartier, where is the sculpturality?
It seems this has become a strong stimulus for Toledano & Chan.
“Yes, it's an integrated bracelet, but rather a watch with an integrated design, not just an integrated bracelet. It's more like a holistic design. If you look at the kings of bracelet-making, like the Nautilus, they are made in watch cases. The bracelets are integrated into the case. However, if you look at our case, it's designed as part of the whole,” explains Phil.
So how is it different from other offerings with integrated bracelets? “It's funny you mentioned (Rolex) Midas. If this line had continued to evolve for 40 or 50 years, perhaps Rolex would have ended up here. The most interesting distinction is that there are watches with integrated bracelets, and then there are designs like the Piaget Polo 79, based on a continuous concept.”
B/1 Stands Out from the Rest in a Good Way.
To begin with, the B/1 bombards the senses with delightful contradictory messages. That's how it operates. Sure, if you live in a world where the Submariner is everything to you, it's a big step. But don't let that stop you, because this could be the most interesting watch you'll wear, as well as a massive icebreaker. B/1 is a fresh, holistic design, consistent with Phil's words. The bracelet and watch head look like a single unit, not separate parts, and they have hints of '70s chic, but only in spirit. It's a feeling of familiarity and alienation, yet it's balanced - that's what makes the watch what it is. And, of course, the mysterious lapis lazuli dial reminiscent of a gemstone doesn't hurt!
Debut Offering with Match and Future-Proofing
We've thoroughly examined the background and genre of the watch, but how will they stand out in 2024? From a cost perspective, at a price of $4,000, I think it's a good offer. Of course, it's a fairly standard but reliable Sellita SW200 with a 41-hour power reserve. But everything else is designed and manufactured specifically for this model, released in a quantity of 175 pieces. Part sporty '70s watch, part brutalist architecture - it just works. Despite the B/1's dramatic and very angular look, its diameter is only 33.5 mm. The thin case is 10.4 mm thick at its thickest point and tapers to 9.1 mm at its thinnest. These asymmetric watches also have a convenient left-sided crown. The model's drama is emphasized by the massive chamfer on the right side of the dial in the form of an abyss, so there's a lot to take in here.
As mentioned, each dial is made of lapis lazuli. This gemstone makes each dial unique and creates a strong contrast with the silky steel. Two sharp dauphine hands, the hour hand with a bold cut-off end, and a multitude of faceted details. The bracelet itself merges with the case, echoing its striking side chamfer. Despite being made from the warmer and harder-to-machine 904L steel, it exudes elegance while being solidly carved. B/1 is the secret love child of Rolex Midas and Girard-Perregaux Casquette. Nevertheless, it exudes a sophistication that doesn't match Toledano & Chan's debut in small-scale production. I am already looking forward to the next chapter, as the B/1 is a captivating watch. They will soon be available in Toledano & Chan and Hodinkee stores for $4,000 and in a limited edition of 175 pieces.
What do you say, friends? Are you ready for architectural futurism from Toledano & Chan? Let me know your thoughts in the Telegram channel.