Next year marks the 30th anniversary since Cartier released the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco watch.
I suppose I should be ashamed for not remembering when I first saw it. But as soon as I laid eyes on it last week, I immediately fell in love. If the watch were not quartz and cost no more than 10,000 euros, it would already be mine.
Find me a man or woman who does not like the Cartier Tank. These stylish watches are so unique and original that it's hard, if not impossible, to find anything that would stop you from loving them. At the same time, Cartier is not the brand from which I would expect to see a multicolored dial in its most stylish model. Perhaps that's why I never looked into the brand's older watches hoping to find something wildly colorful. Yet here we have a magnificent Art Deco example, whose simplicity, flatness, symmetry, and unobstructed repetition of elements leave no one indifferent.
All Eyes on the Dial
"It's all about the dial," says Simon Werner, a German specialist in (neo)vintage Cartier watches. "The ordinary model ref. 1616 Tank Must is a beautiful watch, but the Art Deco style dial significantly surpasses it. It's not just the design itself, but how the colors patinate, acquiring a more purple hue compared to the original blue, which sometimes remains untouched. I've held six different models and have archives of many others, and I can guarantee that they are all very different," explains Simon.
Where Simon Found the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco
Recently, Simon put two Cartier Tank Must Art Deco ref. 1616 watches up for sale on his Instagram account. The first was part of a gentleman's collection from Germany, who acquired it from the first owner, who bought it brand new in the mid-90s. The second "Art Deco" changed hands more frequently, and Simon lost track of the third owner, but it was originally purchased in Hamburg, Germany, in the mid-90s.
This model, presented today, is in phenomenal condition. On heavily worn Cartier watches, you usually see thousands of irregularities and scratches, which only add character to the simple dial. But I have to say, if I were to buy the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco ref. 1616, I would want them to be clean and untouched, like a newborn's skin.
Less and More
It didn't take long to learn more about this model. Among the many options created during the "Must Tank" Cartier era, the Art Deco version holds an esteemed place among Cartier fans. The Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco was released in a limited edition of just 1,000 pieces in SM and LM sizes. The smaller model, ref. 1614, is housed in a 20 × 28 mm case, while its larger sibling, ref. 1616, is enclosed in a 23 × 30 mm case.
The Art Deco Tank model debuted in 1995 and was dedicated to the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris. This famed event was a turning point in design history, showcasing the emerging Moderne style in architecture, interior decoration, furniture, glass, jewelry, and other decorative arts. Its timeless significance endures for decades, inspiring many designers and artists worldwide.
The Case
What surprised me the most is that the Tank Art Deco cases are made of silver, which is considered a sensitive material. We all remember recent stories about how silver Tudor Black Bay watches tarnished within just a few months. So why do Cartier's silver cases look so shiny and bright after three decades? "Indeed, silver is a material that's challenging to work with because it develops a patina very quickly. That's why Cartier applies a gold plating to all 'silver' Must cases, in this case, white gold plating," Simon adds.
The Only Drawback for Me
The Must de Cartier signature is located in the bottom right corner of the dial. This asymmetrical placement is unusual yet very interesting. After a while, you'll like this "position rebellion." Until you notice the word "must," you might think you're looking at mechanical watches. At least, that's how it seemed to me... And yet, no matter how much I love the design, I really wish these Cartiers were not quartz. For me, this is a showstopper. My wife has a pair of quartz Cartiers from the early 2000s, and I've always felt they were missing something.
On the contrary, Simon considers quartz movements very cool and asserts that they lend certain watch models special significance, provided they match the watch and its history.
"The Must de Cartier collection is something special. It was born amidst the quartz crisis and was meant to offer more affordable Cartier watches to people who started buying ultra-precise watches at low prices in Asia," says Simon.
In response, Cartier released its own collection, mainly with quartz movements, and within this collection, the brand made a clever move. It includes many different and whimsical dial options and cool straps, which are much less conservative than those seen in the Tank Louis Cartier collection.
Aging at Its Best
Each Tank Art Deco piece has an individual number. I've never seen such watches in real life, only in photos, which can easily deceive you. The original tones of the dial - deep blue and pale yellow - can vary significantly. The fact is, many examples now show a mix of bluish-purple, black, silver, and gold tones. Obviously, each piece has aged uniquely, so now you have plenty to choose from. If only there were many on sale...
Talking About Prices
We suggest you familiarize yourself with the prices for the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco. If you have a drink nearby, set it aside. The Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco watches have always been priced higher than models with ordinary dials.
"It appealed to many collectors and seems like a more extravagant version of what I consider archetypical - the original Cartier Tank," says Simon.
And the quartz movement doesn't seem to be an issue. The rising price, which currently stands around 7-9 thousand euros, is quite understandable.
Final Thoughts
I really like the Art Deco Tank watches, and I immediately thought of my wife. When I showed it to her, she liked it right away too. But I'm not ready to pay almost 10,000 euros for a quartz watch. And I probably never will be.
"However, with the growing interest in Art Deco tanks over the past year, I feel that prices have reached an interesting point where the watches have to compete with models like the Tank Louis ref. 78086 or more current watches from other brands. Only time will tell if the watches can play in this league," says Simon.
To buy or not to buy, but I can say that the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco is one of the most striking and stunning neo-vintage watches I've seen, and one of the most beautiful Cartier watches. Sweet dreams!