Why is Leica Making Watches?

Last week, I had the opportunity to visit the German city of Wetzlar and stay on the Leica campus.

The word “campus” is truly apt here - 35,000 square meters where over 800 employees are involved in camera production, archiving, and maintenance. The site includes the brand's own hotel, where I spent two nights. Everything is designed in a cohesive style - grey Bauhaus concrete with a few elegant details nodding to Leica's origins. This might be a viewfinder window built into the museum wall or buildings that resemble a camera lens and binoculars from above. Every detail is meticulously thought out.

During a tour of the camera production workshop - one of two, the second located in Portugal - my main goal was to learn more about Leica's watches. This segment of the company emerged relatively recently in 2015, and compared to the brand's more than a century-old history, watches are a novelty. Positioned within a broader luxury business structure known primarily for its cameras, these watches are unique in the industry, which is what attracts me. Currently, no one associates Leica with watches.

Leica does not fully produce its watches independently. Reliable suppliers are used for the movements and most components, but the design remains truly Leica. The ZM1 and ZM2 models are directly inspired by the design of the brand's most popular cameras, while the ZM11 and ZM12 are conceptually based on the world of photography. “My goal is to gain recognition for watches as one of Leica's business areas. It will take a couple more years,” described Henrik Ekdahl, Managing Director of Leica Watches and Accessories, on the position of watches in Leica's overall catalog.

Expanding the Range and Internal Positioning

“We need to expand,” says Henrik, “sell more, create new models. Once we take the next step, I'm sure the watches will become increasingly recognized, including within the company - as one of the five or six key areas. Of course, the main one is photography, but we play our part in expanding the brand in the luxury segment.” Although the watches compete with other brands in their price range, within Leica, they face competition from other product areas. It is this internal competition that is now becoming the main driver of development.

Who Buys Leica Watches?

The question arises: who exactly buys these watches? Does Leica use the new models to enter new markets or as a tool for additional sales to existing customers? According to Henrik, there is a division: “Leica's regular customers often choose the ZM1 and ZM2, while new buyers are more open and appreciate the style of the ZM11 and ZM12.” This is not accidental. The design of the ZM11 and ZM12 fits seamlessly into modern watch trends, while the first models are filled with many “Easter eggs” for camera enthusiasts.

Overall, the watches are intended for those who know and love Leica. In the museum, I met a Leica camera collector who, after getting acquainted with the watches, considered purchasing one, despite having worn only smartwatches for the last 10 years.

Future: Affordable Model and New Opportunities

In Leica's near future plans is the release of a new line of watches that will become a more accessible entry point into the collection. “This is necessary to build trust. I see the ZM1 as the pinnacle of the pyramid, and we lack a model below - more affordable for those who want mechanical watches but are not ready to spend €15,000,” explains Henrik.

However, achieving a price of €5,000-6,500 will be challenging if maintaining the current strategy and working with the same suppliers. The ZM1 and ZM2 models are equipped with movements from the German company Lehmann, while the ZM11 and ZM12 use Chronode movements. Neither of these companies specializes in budget mechanisms, just as Leica is not associated with budget cameras. Henrik plans to use more affordable mechanisms from Sellita or ETA to reduce costs.

Additionally, Leica intends to bring part of the watch production in-house. The brand is known for its expertise in producing glass, and the process of creating watch glasses could well become part of this. Leica is also skilled in manufacturing cases from solid metal blocks and working with both natural and synthetic leather for straps. But with 80-100 cameras produced daily in Wetzlar, it is challenging to allocate resources for a less mass-market product.

Production Experiments and Materials

Nevertheless, the team is ready to experiment. During a recent trip to the Portuguese factory, Leica managed to produce prototypes of the ZM11 case from different metals: brass, aluminum, steel, and titanium. “They simply measured the ZM11 case and made samples from different materials that we use in cameras,” Henrik explains. This was an internal project of the factory, not initiated by management, demonstrating production capabilities. The question remains open: will production be expanded in Germany, Portugal, or will a new division appear in Switzerland with a focus on Swiss Made?

The Ultimate Goal of Leica Watch Production

What is the ultimate goal of Leica's watch production? Will we ever talk about Leica watches as we do about cameras? Henrik answers unequivocally: “I will not work for the company if accessories and watches become as large as cameras. And frankly, I hope that never happens, because for me, Leica is a camera manufacturer.” However, it seems the brand aims to become a group of companies with multiple directions rather than being a one-product manufacturer.

Currently, the accessories business - straps, lens caps, leather goods - is actively developing and generating significant revenue. Before watches can occupy a serious place within the company, they will need to compete with this area.

Conclusion

Personally, I highly appreciate Leica's current developments in the watch segment. The company approaches watch creation with the same meticulousness and attention to detail as it does with cameras, which is reflected in well-thought-out and high-quality products. The watches are not for everyone and are expensive, but the same can be said for Leica cameras. The introduction of a more affordable model is a good step that will not harm the brand's prestige. By maintaining a high level of quality, the collection will become more complete and attractive to true Leica fans.

Table: Key Leica Watch Models and Their Features