I have a particular fondness for small independent brands. This applies not just to watches.
I admire when people dare to step outside the big luxury groups and pursue (perhaps naive) dreams in real life. The results of such efforts are often impressive. Independent brands usually follow a single creative concept, leading to bolder and more radical solutions. There's no design by committee or 'because it sells.' So I decided to take on the challenge of assembling my ideal watch collection exclusively from independent micro-brands.
Selection Criteria for Watches
The conditions are simple - the watches must be ones I would seriously consider purchasing. For me, this is the segment up to €10,000. Of course, I can't include watches that I've created myself (yes, I admit, my weakness is heightened by the fact that I am also an independent maker). This is a subjective list - the watches must 'speak' to me in particular. The goal is not to assemble the objectively best independent models. Finally, the brands should not be part of large luxury holdings.
How I Form a Collection Only from Independent Brands
How do I approach creating a collection exclusively from independent watches? I adhere to the same principle as when choosing any watch: I don't follow any themes or rules, but rather go by emotion. The main thing is whether I enjoy wearing these watches.
Nonetheless, I prefer to have a small but functional collection that meets my practical needs. It should include a sturdy and accessible model for outdoor work and other harsh conditions. A versatile GADA model (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) is essential, as it's my favorite style and the watch I wear most often. I also love dive watches as a more casual alternative to GADA, so a diver must be in the collection. And finally, a formal model is needed for special occasions.
In total - four positions need to be filled. Since these are the only watches I will wear, the quality requirements are high. If the build quality doesn't match the level of major brands, the charm of micro-brands quickly fades. Therefore, besides a sturdy and accessible model, I focus on the more expensive segment of independent brands. Let's proceed with the selection!
Sturdy and Accessible Model
The first choice was obvious. When it comes to sturdy and affordable watches, it's easy to settle on RZE. My choice is the RZE Resolute. The collection is constantly evolving, so much depends on availability at the time of purchase. However, the classic model with a black dial is a win-win option. The Spruce Green color is also very interesting.
The price of €820 is not the cheapest among RZE, but the price-quality ratio is excellent. The titanium case with UltraHex coating provides a surface hardness of 1200 Vickers. The diameter of 40 mm and height of 10.5 mm are great proportions for a sports watch. I like that they come on a titanium bracelet - I love bracelets, they are durable and easy to clean. Inside is the automatic Miyota 90S5 caliber - a reliable movement for tool watches.
The RZE Resolute combines reliability with a restrained sports design - the ideal combination for me.
Ideal GADA Watches
The second position was taken by watches for versatile everyday use. GADA is my favorite style, so I was very picky. Which independent watches would I wear every day? I really like the Laventure Marine II with the gold dial, but they are sold out. The Serica 7505 Field Chronometer is good, but too 'instrumental,' and I don't like the Bonklip bracelet. The Fears Brunswick is close to my heart, but only on a leather strap, and for GADA I want a bracelet.
In the end, I chose the Lorca Model No. 1 GMT with a silver dial, released a few years ago. Lorca's founder, Jesse Marchant, showed excellent taste in the debut model. These are elegant GMTs with a 36 mm steel case and a 37 mm bezel. The bezel features unusual typography, which took some getting used to, but now I appreciate it.
The watches are inspired by many vintage models but do not copy any specific one. They exude vintage charm. After a personal acquaintance, I can confirm that the quality and finish are above what is usual for micro-brands, allowing for daily wear. The smooth bracelet with micro-adjustment clasp adds comfort. The price is €2,015.95, which is quite reasonable for such a level of execution.
Diver in My Collection
The next choice is my favorite independent diver. This category required more thought. Dive watches are among the most common among micro-brands, but most belong to the budget segment. If I am choosing another dive watch for life, I want something more high-end. Interestingly, there are few high-end independent divers, perhaps that's why I decided to make my own. But by the rules, my model doesn't qualify.
Options include the Monta Oceanking - one of the first micro-brands to shift focus from aggressive pricing to quality. However, the Oceanking too closely resembles the modern Rolex Submariner. Ming is another brand with a high-end diver, but the style is too futuristic for me.
Conclusion: there are no perfect watches in this segment for me. The closest is the Serica 5303. It always seemed to me that the bracelet does not match the level of the watches. Despite the great appearance, it seems not reliable enough for a diver. Therefore, I would take these watches and wear them on a rubber strap.
My choice is the version with the white dial. Serica did an excellent job with the original layout, without sacrificing functionality and readability. The style is controversial, but that's exactly what I like. The price is €1,590.
Formal Watches for Special Occasions
For formal watches, I would choose a model from Kurono Tokyo. I really like the watches from their Classic Series. Unfortunately, they appear on the market rarely and at the time of writing are not available for sale. Fortunately, another of my favorite formal options is available for order - the Fears Arnos in Pewter Blue.
The Fears Arnos combines a rectangular case with a round dial. The free space is adorned with a silver 'clous de Paris' pattern. The width of 22 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 40 mm provide a modern look on the wrist while retaining a classic aesthetic. Inside is the automatic Sellita SW1000 caliber - an excellent choice for such watches, ensuring reliability and ease of maintenance.
I particularly like how Fears has updated the century-old design, making the watch both historically grounded and modern. The price is €5,040.
Final Collection of Watches Only from Independent Brands
I admit, assembling this imaginary collection was more challenging than I expected. This is due to my high standards for build quality and finish. While I admire many models in the €500–1,500 range, over time you start to notice where costs were cut and which corners were 'rounded.' This is not a criticism - I'm glad such models exist and make high-level features more accessible. But if I'm looking for watches for the long haul, I want something more refined. It was especially challenging with divers.
Another point - collecting independent watches requires patience, finances, and readiness to quickly react to new releases. Many models I would like to include, such as the Laventure Marine Type 3, Toledano & Chan B/1.2, Kurono Tokyo Classic Series, and De Rijke Capri, are currently unavailable. This limits the choice, but part of the charm of collecting independent brands lies in their rarity. Sometimes it's beneficial not to get what you want.
Overall, I believe I've put together a great selection of four models. Will I sell my current collection and switch exclusively to independent brands? Not yet... but if small independent manufacturers continue to release such watches, perhaps one day I will.
And what would be included in your collection of watches only from independent brands? Share in the comments!